03-01-2016, 09:52 AM
hi
did read the tbelt page, fixkick.com?
the belt must be tension correctly or it will fail set too tight or loose. per the instructions; (my way, FSM way, and comes with belt page is there)
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/tbelt8v.html
the studs come off the old pump using the double nut trick, ever seen that, using 2 nuts , jam them the off the lower one? and stud comes out?
the belt is tensioned with loose lash (valve rockers set loose)
and 2 turn clockwise with the idler loose the clock the idle stud.
freezing the tension for 60,000 more miles
that is all there is to it.
the bottom cog bolts 6mm will be a pain to fix. id buy new cog. and start fresh.
with new bolts. and using antiseize compound on the new threads so they never seize again. (sold in catchup like packs at all major autostores in the check out lane)
did read the tbelt page, fixkick.com?
the belt must be tension correctly or it will fail set too tight or loose. per the instructions; (my way, FSM way, and comes with belt page is there)
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/tbelt8v.html
the studs come off the old pump using the double nut trick, ever seen that, using 2 nuts , jam them the off the lower one? and stud comes out?
(03-01-2016, 08:54 AM)droflex Wrote: Well that was a lot of fun getting that all apart.
Now I'm putting everything back together and found out the new water pump has threads to attach the fan but the old water pump has studs.
the belt is tensioned with loose lash (valve rockers set loose)
and 2 turn clockwise with the idler loose the clock the idle stud.
freezing the tension for 60,000 more miles
that is all there is to it.
the bottom cog bolts 6mm will be a pain to fix. id buy new cog. and start fresh.
with new bolts. and using antiseize compound on the new threads so they never seize again. (sold in catchup like packs at all major autostores in the check out lane)
http://www.fixkick.com