95 4dr 4at charging issues

[fixkick]

QUESTIONS: lots........ REDUX. your other post states INJECTORS, so is 16v (plural injectors) I needed this to see all possible loads !
IS IT USA or Canada? car, DRL or not? Daylight Running Lights. can fail and cause, the ALT to go nuts. Unplug DRL module under upper top left dash.

Did it have A/C, air cond. and compressor, that is long dead, but still wired up? The clutch sucks big time amps. 20? Unplug the A/C clutch and AMP / fuses.
AC has its own harness. the pathes are not shown in the factory drawings, only AC drawings show that path. and I have them too.

Defrost, ? active. on rear window? Huge amps, if stuck on.
the fan in the heater pulls 15 amps easy.

The 16v running pulls more current the faster those 4 injectors fair, adds maybe up to 4 amps more above key on amps.
I think 10 amps is the max for running, EFI, the fuel pump alone pulls 4amps. and if bad up to 10a. we can find this easy with the clamp.
measure the current out of all the output legs on main fender fuse box. add them up and bingo all current ,(minus battery) is known, running.



what are your symptoms? what charging issues, which kind, there are many.
What type ammeter, the old shunt kind or the ampclamp?
we can find your 14amp easy with the later clamp, at the fender box. one of up to 3 output lines has that current. very easy to find.
there is no magic to Kirchoffs laws.
Charging system issues, which?

undercharges,
over charges and boils the battery to death or worse blows all the lamps out car,.seen many go to 20v, and BOOM, damage no limits....
overnight drains battery. (6am dead or after work, dead)
charge lamp comes on for no reason.
Intermittent.
? which?

this photo does not show all loads, only 1, from this link.... http://www.fixkick.com/Charging/charging.html


the below link
shows all types of failure paths (loads), and the charge system loves to fail, with bad connections.
we have a record of 5 Alternators swapped out. (it was the wiring.)
the all time top fails are here, with graphic photos. Salt belt fails , all.

http://www.fixkick.com/electrical-failure.html

and off my schematic page. the whole 95.

http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/95%20...istra1.pdf

see the main fuse box. see white-yellow wire, that is Head lamp current , and will be about 10amps.

with that amp clamp you can check all 5 , wires at the main box. , all accessories, off, and lights and brake lights.

Amps chart at main fuse box. fender top.
wire
color------------ key off--key on--running.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
wht/green----------0------ 0------0------------- floating , more is charging
wht/yellow----------0------0------0------------(.010 is possible due to ECU memory drain) 10/1000th of an amp is normal via DOME fuse.
wht/green-Sm------ 0------5?----varies----------this is ECU + pump +injectors, 2amps to 10. is normal based on RPM (bad fuel pumps suck big current.)
white-------------- 0------1amp- same-----------this is RWAL, (rear wheel antilock brakes, if opted)
big black----------- 0- add above-add above------the polarity tells you if its charging or discharging, +/- on the amp dial.
white/green big------0-------0--- Gen Amps. this is the actual output of the ALT. 0 to 50 amps.


the white/green BIG, gen (Alt) wire, will have the current for the whole car, running. all currents added up, it runs the car ALL!
the battery, never runs the car unless, you crank or the gen fails. Ever.
Once each current is measured, and it seems wrong, we can go and find WHO,is sucking current. too much. its not hard at all.

hope my chart works out.

the clamp.