09-15-2013, 10:42 PM
I have spent $600 on this issue now! It still does the same thing as always.
New alternator, battery and positive terminal ends and battery clamp. I get 14 -21 amps at idle coming off wire from Alt. Only 1-4 A to battery. Current readings don't increase with lights on. In fact current to battery decreases. Minimal voltage drop at battery when lights are on. Battery voltage is 14.3 at idle with battery reading 12.8 engine off.
My old alternator ended up being OK so I put it back on and now Napa won't take back the new one I bought even though they were the ones that told me the alt was bad when they checked it on the car. Out $150 now but got a spare. Time to talk to the owner. I'm sure he will work with me. I do a bit of press work for them and a fair amount of purchases too for 20 years
Both sense and igniter wires have battery voltage when unplugged engine off, key on and plugged in while running. 4.9V on exciter wire plugged in, not running, key on. I did not rotate the alt though when I did that test.
I ended up taking the Kick to the "BEST" place in Denver 30 miles away. $408 later they said it was fixed but nothing has changed except they put a battery terminal on and new ends on the 3 wires to the pos terminal. $7 hasmat fee to dispose of old lead battery terminal! WTF!! 4 hrs to put a new battery terminal on? There was nothing wrong with factory cable end. No corrosion at all and in great shape.
I just don't get how I can loose so much current from one side of the terminal from alt to the other on the distribution box. Voltage is the same and why the alt is constantly putting out 14-21A with battery fresh off charger with over 13.5V in it or with 12.8 after sitting over night and why isn't that current making it to the battery?
Also voltage output doesn't increase as RPM goes up.
Minimal load on battery with key on and engine off. Certainly not 14+ amps. More like .2A
New alternator, battery and positive terminal ends and battery clamp. I get 14 -21 amps at idle coming off wire from Alt. Only 1-4 A to battery. Current readings don't increase with lights on. In fact current to battery decreases. Minimal voltage drop at battery when lights are on. Battery voltage is 14.3 at idle with battery reading 12.8 engine off.
My old alternator ended up being OK so I put it back on and now Napa won't take back the new one I bought even though they were the ones that told me the alt was bad when they checked it on the car. Out $150 now but got a spare. Time to talk to the owner. I'm sure he will work with me. I do a bit of press work for them and a fair amount of purchases too for 20 years
Both sense and igniter wires have battery voltage when unplugged engine off, key on and plugged in while running. 4.9V on exciter wire plugged in, not running, key on. I did not rotate the alt though when I did that test.
I ended up taking the Kick to the "BEST" place in Denver 30 miles away. $408 later they said it was fixed but nothing has changed except they put a battery terminal on and new ends on the 3 wires to the pos terminal. $7 hasmat fee to dispose of old lead battery terminal! WTF!! 4 hrs to put a new battery terminal on? There was nothing wrong with factory cable end. No corrosion at all and in great shape.
I just don't get how I can loose so much current from one side of the terminal from alt to the other on the distribution box. Voltage is the same and why the alt is constantly putting out 14-21A with battery fresh off charger with over 13.5V in it or with 12.8 after sitting over night and why isn't that current making it to the battery?
Also voltage output doesn't increase as RPM goes up.
Minimal load on battery with key on and engine off. Certainly not 14+ amps. More like .2A