02-08-2016, 11:08 PM
Good morning FIXKICK!
Dear Fixkick:
I hope you remember my weekly report on the saga of replacing my car’s engine! As you may remember, I ensured everything on the timing is OK (with strobe light, and ensuring the cylinder #1 at firing cycle, and the distributor at 11 PM position, etc).
PROBLEM: Car starts perfectly, cold idles at 900 RPM, and the cold idle vacuum assisted plunger retracts immediately after starting, but as soon as I put the car in gear, it shots off. Moreover, at idle, when I press the pedal to the metal, it immediately goes to 2000 RM, but the motor takes its time for a few seconds (upward to 5-8 secs) for the RPM to gradually go to 3000 , another few seconds to gradually reach to 3500, and finally near 4000 RPM, where it essentially plateaus!
I did the following on the car yesterday:
1. Drained the fuel tank, and replaced the fuel filter, thinking that may be the seven-month old fuel would be the culprit.
2. Checked the resistance of almost all sensors, including the spark plug wires; all within the specs.
3. Took off the EGR valve (which was incidentally replaced with a new one less than 500 miles ago), and checked it. One of the two holes on the engine where the EGR meets (the one on the right-hand-side, looking at the EGR valve from the passenger-side) had some soot (I would say 70 of the area was unobstructed), all cleaned.
4. Checked the MAP; seems functioning OK. When I pull the hose, the RPM goes down significantly.
Unfortunately, the tablet that ran my RHINO-VIEW mal-functioned (yes, my luck is really amazing these datys!). I could not use the software to check the car, despite the fact I installed it on three other PCs! It, unfortunately, could not communicate with the CPU. That is another issue I have to deal with now!
Well, with the new information, is there anything that comes to your mind that may resolve the issue?
Cheers,
Zackman
Dear Fixkick:
I hope you remember my weekly report on the saga of replacing my car’s engine! As you may remember, I ensured everything on the timing is OK (with strobe light, and ensuring the cylinder #1 at firing cycle, and the distributor at 11 PM position, etc).
PROBLEM: Car starts perfectly, cold idles at 900 RPM, and the cold idle vacuum assisted plunger retracts immediately after starting, but as soon as I put the car in gear, it shots off. Moreover, at idle, when I press the pedal to the metal, it immediately goes to 2000 RM, but the motor takes its time for a few seconds (upward to 5-8 secs) for the RPM to gradually go to 3000 , another few seconds to gradually reach to 3500, and finally near 4000 RPM, where it essentially plateaus!
I did the following on the car yesterday:
1. Drained the fuel tank, and replaced the fuel filter, thinking that may be the seven-month old fuel would be the culprit.
2. Checked the resistance of almost all sensors, including the spark plug wires; all within the specs.
3. Took off the EGR valve (which was incidentally replaced with a new one less than 500 miles ago), and checked it. One of the two holes on the engine where the EGR meets (the one on the right-hand-side, looking at the EGR valve from the passenger-side) had some soot (I would say 70 of the area was unobstructed), all cleaned.
4. Checked the MAP; seems functioning OK. When I pull the hose, the RPM goes down significantly.
Unfortunately, the tablet that ran my RHINO-VIEW mal-functioned (yes, my luck is really amazing these datys!). I could not use the software to check the car, despite the fact I installed it on three other PCs! It, unfortunately, could not communicate with the CPU. That is another issue I have to deal with now!
Well, with the new information, is there anything that comes to your mind that may resolve the issue?
Cheers,
Zackman
[color=#800080][b]91 Sidekick JX, 8V, S. Carolina Car, 2 dr, 3 speed Auto Trani, Halifax, NS, Canada[/b][/color]