Engine finally runs OK, but no real power!

[fixkick]

NO PROBLEMO. BROAD CAST FOR SOUTH AMERICA.... HOT DAY 90F,,, coming home at last...long vacation

As per usual, thank you FIXKIXK for your speedy reply. (YOU JUST CAUGHT ME,) I,D

Apparently there are several things I should be looking into. However, I have a few questions in regard to your reply.
1. You mentioned: good the rhino tool , i have the page that answers this
I did a search in your website, but could not find any info. In other words, do you have the average values of the values that are supported by the Rhno's software?

2. You mentioned "LTFT i where. centered hot idle 118?"
Could you please explain what you mean? what is "LTFT i where."?
this is long term fuel time, if 02 sensors sees engine rich all time it move this trim. so if trim looks way bad, means, 02 bad, exhaust leak, or say fuel pressure way too high like 60 psi
so forgot to say, most these care are failing for bad FPR, REG. A RASH OF THEM NOW.
STFT is way to fast for humans to see, so I ignore it."short term"

3. You mentioned "in closed loop, at hot idle"
How do I determine this? (this in software is a status bit, or flag, for closed loop status) on new cars, at idle it must be true.
When the ecu can control air fuel ratio at Stoich/lambda or 14.7:1 ratio and can hunt it and hold it in closed, loop then closed loop status goes true.
id be yours is out of control lean or rich, not sure. if bogs, lean,if misfires and plugs black rich. it is.

4. You mentioned: "idle switch on?"
How do I determine this.
see my TPS page. but the scan tool you have should show this, says ON
us poor folk have to measure the idles switch pin on TPS to see if its 0v.


Thanks very much!
Zackman

ask more... willing to help

check fuel pressure
check FPR vacuum nipple for fuel leaks, if leaks,its GONE ,DOA.