in most shops (with 12vdc at pump is yours) and test fuel runs car, this is only takes 5min work at air cleaner lid off.
or this car
not running (depressure)
CAR out side,
parked
large rag
goggle on(PROTECT EYES FROM SQUIRTS)
open the small m6 (10mm-hex screw) test port rear of fuel filter. on filter banjo bolt
crack it. a tad.
catch all fuel. then hang rag on tree with nail let air dry, in safe place, benzene is very toxic
if pump really is dead, there will be no pressure to depressurize.
i never assume things work, i do the simple tests, assumptions kill forward progress.
that what test fuel dues, is....
allows you to assume engines ok and spark, zero guessing..... see?
if true a above, 12vdc to pump is next cranking, 11v min. can be tested at ecu fuel pump relay, at tail light , at center bumper and at pump.
if that is good, then drop tank.
no fun wasting all day and a huge bath in fuel only to find 1 of 4 pink wires, rusty or the g402 ground open
did the ear at filler neck test pass? sound? key on 3times. 2 person tests....
this car is infamous at 0v to pump
6v to pump.
FI fuse blown.
i alway check volts across pump pins... and win like 1/2 the time and save many long hours of labor 1/2 time.
2 tests
test fuel, works
12vdc to pump cranking or the 3 second rule
2 tests
and win
or
fuel pressure out of spec. 34 to 41 psi is SPEC, no deviation allowed (range)
keyon or running. same. the variances are altitude (high mountain= less pressure)
what is volts now. and pressure wrong, (consider low voltage= low pressure=motor turns slower, pump spins slower)
then (why)
fuel pressure too high is FPR bad (many are this old) i always amazed seeing working this old. am.
if fuel pressure is too low FPR bad or pump weak (12v on pump not 8v) keep in mind cranking voltage sags to 11v, so it be near there ,almost.
the pump test called shunt (dead headed) test in the FSM and my pump page
hits like 55psi or more
if not pump is weak or low battery voltage to pump motor
a voltmeter ends the guess.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html
the next test is leak down test
if the are leaks, and it leaks down the pressure goes to zero key off
and will take hard cranking to get pressure to spec.
see?
that is why do the 6 tests in ReD IS BEST
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html
NOW IMAGINE ONE MORE FAILURE
FPR STUCK OPEN FUEL PRESSURE AT 10PSI. (INJECTOR CAN NOT WORK THERE)
ALL FUEL IS BYPASSED BACK TO TANK.
THAT IS WHY I ALWAYS DO ALL 6 RED TESTS. OR MORE IF I SUSPECT INJECTOR LEAKAGE OR FLOODING
or this car
not running (depressure)
CAR out side,
parked
large rag
goggle on(PROTECT EYES FROM SQUIRTS)
open the small m6 (10mm-hex screw) test port rear of fuel filter. on filter banjo bolt
crack it. a tad.
catch all fuel. then hang rag on tree with nail let air dry, in safe place, benzene is very toxic
if pump really is dead, there will be no pressure to depressurize.
i never assume things work, i do the simple tests, assumptions kill forward progress.
that what test fuel dues, is....
allows you to assume engines ok and spark, zero guessing..... see?
if true a above, 12vdc to pump is next cranking, 11v min. can be tested at ecu fuel pump relay, at tail light , at center bumper and at pump.
if that is good, then drop tank.
no fun wasting all day and a huge bath in fuel only to find 1 of 4 pink wires, rusty or the g402 ground open
did the ear at filler neck test pass? sound? key on 3times. 2 person tests....
this car is infamous at 0v to pump
6v to pump.
FI fuse blown.
i alway check volts across pump pins... and win like 1/2 the time and save many long hours of labor 1/2 time.
2 tests
test fuel, works
12vdc to pump cranking or the 3 second rule
2 tests
and win
or
fuel pressure out of spec. 34 to 41 psi is SPEC, no deviation allowed (range)
keyon or running. same. the variances are altitude (high mountain= less pressure)
what is volts now. and pressure wrong, (consider low voltage= low pressure=motor turns slower, pump spins slower)
then (why)
fuel pressure too high is FPR bad (many are this old) i always amazed seeing working this old. am.
if fuel pressure is too low FPR bad or pump weak (12v on pump not 8v) keep in mind cranking voltage sags to 11v, so it be near there ,almost.
the pump test called shunt (dead headed) test in the FSM and my pump page
hits like 55psi or more
if not pump is weak or low battery voltage to pump motor
a voltmeter ends the guess.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html
the next test is leak down test
if the are leaks, and it leaks down the pressure goes to zero key off
and will take hard cranking to get pressure to spec.
see?
that is why do the 6 tests in ReD IS BEST
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html
NOW IMAGINE ONE MORE FAILURE
FPR STUCK OPEN FUEL PRESSURE AT 10PSI. (INJECTOR CAN NOT WORK THERE)
ALL FUEL IS BYPASSED BACK TO TANK.
THAT IS WHY I ALWAYS DO ALL 6 RED TESTS. OR MORE IF I SUSPECT INJECTOR LEAKAGE OR FLOODING
http://www.fixkick.com