hello ridge R;
yes, leaks are tricky, let me tell you ,how my 96 fooled me..
rear leaks are the distributor. (and/or VC) not rear main, there is vent on the rear bell that lets that dizzy oil leak down rear of block.
replace 2 o-rings and bingo
yours is g16v , 16v mpi
the next is real tricky, and fools fooled me... wind and gravity , do this.
the valve gaskets are all bad,, and nobody checks lash and put in a new VC gasket , this has the nasty side effect of filling some harnesses full of oil.
then with new VC gasket, it still drips oil for 6 month,makeS me think i have bad crank seal.
the CKP sensor (crank)hareness dripped for 6 months, and was fed from higher harness points. hold huge oil there... LIKE A SPONGE
id say, new, distrib, seals x2
then new valve gasket
then get the front crank bolt 17mm back to spec. 94ft/lbs. now. best is do to first hour of ownership. turn bolt CW. clock wise. RHT
there are other point of leaks.
then see if 6months waiting,works.
OR?
if nobody fooled with the pan it will not leak (unless rusted through) "factory RTV sealants are very very good"
the oil pump, still original will not leak, has steel gasket, if clone parts there, it dont fit right or they use silly paper gasket that leaks
all these looks like crank seal. leaks and are not.
in truth, leaks here are very hard to work.
why.
because the front belt cover hides ALL that.
one method is to remove that cover for a week, and clean front there, and drive around block, over and over until
you see a leak, and now you know.or use the IR dye, and lamp method and see it leak, one trip around the block.
if the VC is bad, as all seen by me were.
then it be a big waste of time looking at seals. for sure cam or crank.
as they leak the least, , they last the longest of all
recommend FELPRO VC set, for that.
shop
see blue seal locator
http://www.ase.com/Landing-Pages/Car-Own...cator.aspx
zip ,code, and bingo.
remember gravity wins 1st then wind.
down and to rear.
this cause oil to goto crazy places.
best way to find a leak, in all cases is to witness it first hand LIVE!
can save you big money.
every dizzy ive seen leaked. and VC
all did
and both had the consistency of Gram Crackers. hard, baked to death and brittle. really just junk,there.
hint 1:
replacing, dizzy seals can be harrowing
some shops, they young,never seen a distributor
and dont know how to time it
so freeze the engine at #1 TDC firing, and match mark the Dizzy base to housing, and mark #1 cap, location
for win,going back in.
lash loose on #1 not 4
cheers!!!
like this, leaks are more easy to find
clean and cover off.
8v example has diffr. VC
![[Image: 3_10_01_16_11_48_55.jpeg]](http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/gallery/3_10_01_16_11_48_55.jpeg)
the IR dye kits save time. allowing leaks to be found and huge mess.
hard part is the crank pulley needs to be removed, to do this.
one Saturday off,
back on next
the pulley on ours. has 6? m6 bolts, on the inner rim that come off
with none standard size head, not ISO size, our are 8mm heads, IIRC not 10hex.
some are replaced, with m6 allens. due to queer headed bolts not sold in stores ,but allen are easy, 18 ft/lbs torque.
this gets the pulley of most easy and then cover.
note damage to cover. loose bad belt.
![[Image: no-brainer1w.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16V/mine/no-brainer1w.jpg)
if you look close
if the front VC gasket leaks
oil runs , down front of engine, ,easy as , eating apple pie....
best is to fix the simple things first. gravity is a beach, ask George Cluny and Sandra?
yes, leaks are tricky, let me tell you ,how my 96 fooled me..
rear leaks are the distributor. (and/or VC) not rear main, there is vent on the rear bell that lets that dizzy oil leak down rear of block.
replace 2 o-rings and bingo
yours is g16v , 16v mpi
the next is real tricky, and fools fooled me... wind and gravity , do this.
the valve gaskets are all bad,, and nobody checks lash and put in a new VC gasket , this has the nasty side effect of filling some harnesses full of oil.
then with new VC gasket, it still drips oil for 6 month,makeS me think i have bad crank seal.
the CKP sensor (crank)hareness dripped for 6 months, and was fed from higher harness points. hold huge oil there... LIKE A SPONGE
id say, new, distrib, seals x2
then new valve gasket
then get the front crank bolt 17mm back to spec. 94ft/lbs. now. best is do to first hour of ownership. turn bolt CW. clock wise. RHT
there are other point of leaks.
then see if 6months waiting,works.
OR?
if nobody fooled with the pan it will not leak (unless rusted through) "factory RTV sealants are very very good"
the oil pump, still original will not leak, has steel gasket, if clone parts there, it dont fit right or they use silly paper gasket that leaks
all these looks like crank seal. leaks and are not.
in truth, leaks here are very hard to work.
why.
because the front belt cover hides ALL that.
one method is to remove that cover for a week, and clean front there, and drive around block, over and over until
you see a leak, and now you know.or use the IR dye, and lamp method and see it leak, one trip around the block.
if the VC is bad, as all seen by me were.
then it be a big waste of time looking at seals. for sure cam or crank.
as they leak the least, , they last the longest of all
recommend FELPRO VC set, for that.
shop
see blue seal locator
http://www.ase.com/Landing-Pages/Car-Own...cator.aspx
zip ,code, and bingo.
remember gravity wins 1st then wind.
down and to rear.
this cause oil to goto crazy places.
best way to find a leak, in all cases is to witness it first hand LIVE!
can save you big money.
every dizzy ive seen leaked. and VC
all did
and both had the consistency of Gram Crackers. hard, baked to death and brittle. really just junk,there.
hint 1:
replacing, dizzy seals can be harrowing
some shops, they young,never seen a distributor
and dont know how to time it
so freeze the engine at #1 TDC firing, and match mark the Dizzy base to housing, and mark #1 cap, location
for win,going back in.
lash loose on #1 not 4
cheers!!!
like this, leaks are more easy to find
clean and cover off.
8v example has diffr. VC
the IR dye kits save time. allowing leaks to be found and huge mess.
hard part is the crank pulley needs to be removed, to do this.
one Saturday off,
back on next
the pulley on ours. has 6? m6 bolts, on the inner rim that come off
with none standard size head, not ISO size, our are 8mm heads, IIRC not 10hex.
some are replaced, with m6 allens. due to queer headed bolts not sold in stores ,but allen are easy, 18 ft/lbs torque.
this gets the pulley of most easy and then cover.
note damage to cover. loose bad belt.
if you look close
if the front VC gasket leaks
oil runs , down front of engine, ,easy as , eating apple pie....
best is to fix the simple things first. gravity is a beach, ask George Cluny and Sandra?
http://www.fixkick.com