0:15 at 15 seconds, see that drop, that is fast , looks like total spark loss or total injection lost or both, for brief moment.
it is misfiring, (but may be at a more deep level)
ok, but now test the ecu
insert the diagnostic jumper, pre 96, on your car look for communications loss.
key on , see 12s , sure (pre 96)
now start engine
sill flashing
wait or the same event at 0:15, that anomaly.
does the 12 change cadence? die, or not finish off a code fully, ? ecu bad.
ever check for the classic bad caps in the ECU./?
The scan tool , if you log data, at , 0:15 may show proof of some input to ECU , going bad, on the fly
or the scan tool could show loss of comms....( that happens if ECU reboots while running, not good that)
the , no shraeder, sadly. but and easy add with the rail adapter.
there is an adaptor for the rail. for $13 or
the hose in the kit, with gauge, that fits the 6mm test port on the gas filter banjo.
usually if fuel pressure drops rpm just slowly drops. (the idle controls and FPR like to prevent drops)
121. bad vacuum if , the TPS is working,. not glitching.... only scope sees tps best.
one more test
with timing light attached, to say #1 cyl, at the 0:15 events, does the strobe suddenly halt?
if it halted and injector 1 , id say the CMP is flaky, remove distrib side connector, make sure pins look clean.?
im sure your ISC is ok and the rpm goes below the spec, 800 only because of the gross misfire.. forget rpm find why , spark and fuel drops.
if not spark drop its fuel.
if is fuel loss, might be, fuel pressure, drop or was low all along and drop even more.
egr trick if needed, make sure its closed, parked, engine off
take off top egr hose, top of rear plenum at TB.
off it and plug it with golf tee, end EGR not wanting to close. as a test. parked blip the EGR main 3 times, 1,2,3 (for luck) hear it go thump, thump , that is full closed.
with EGR out of picture can help testing. for sure if likes to stick. some do , but only real hot.
that shudder in misfire. is the cam belt fresh, not slipped, do the sneak a peak test, yet, is the crank pulley at 94ft/lbs an no all discovered loose???????? (this is day 1 check this)
day1, the day you 1st get car. do....on all G16s.
the pump. (Fuel)
29.8–37.0 psi
running, and adds lots more (6psi) gunning engine, the pressure gunned can match key on pressure, (get near) that is 35.6–42.7 psi
pump tests
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html
the front rail adapter
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2267/
the cheap filter hose
harbor FRIGHT(sic)
has this
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/TBI-conn-1w.jpg
for near zero bucks,... is your filter fresh?
conclusion lots of misfire
if not spark causes.
then its fuel.
not sure of lean misfire or rich.
oops made a 97 error above, on code12, (me bad)
http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-inject...92699.html
$20
far right hose is SUZUKI prefect fit.
no cutting anything, ever.
all adapters made , by every one here.. from store bought to hand made....
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/Schrader-vales.html
its holding closed loop at idle.
if yes, id bet the fuel mix is not lean or rich. and is spark dropping out.
closed loop is STOICH.
but ??? that could drop out too.,, so fast you cant see it with scans.
scans are slow on this old slow ECU.
one way to see it, using real scan tool is to set up a scan that only scans one sensor PID at at time
like 02.
log that. mine could do about 10 a sec.
my Palmer software this is super easy
just 1 example (97 has great SCan-abilties if exploited.
see the bottom blue line, you can shut all off and just watch B1S1 (means front 02) to see if it swings fast at idle and not go nuts , at the ):15 event. or at 2500 rpm steady parked hot.
![[Image: 96M-log2w.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/palmer/96M-log2w.jpg)
or log rpm
see if it goes to zero at drop. seen in 0:15 event.
the dash guage is a toy, the scan tool will snow true rpm, and FAST response,
or see pending DTC pop (up then off) or see real DTC pop. keep in mind the ECU will clear some spark failure events super fast, like CMP) and that it can't see TPS angle glitches at all(it thinks, its crazy kid driving?LOL)
id watch them all, all PIDS and same time for DTCs , carefully to see any wild changes, at the EVENT. (15)
on a running engine there is vibration
and things like to fail then or hot.
the MAF rap test.
at idle gently rap side of map casing with back handle of screw driver, pretend hitting your teeth this gently,
see RPM change is a bad MAF.
defeat the VSVs? to see if they are messing up, pinch there, input hard vacuum hoses.
what is plenum vacuum steady 19" HG , at hot idle is typical. steady. (but at the 15 Event it will drop, but is victim)
id check spark with my strobe first.... for sure. (strobe = automotive ignition timing light)
note me hitting 64g/s with my maf, Radical flogging the engine, to bench mark it,.....
ignore mpg that is instant mpg, and is low FLOGGED.
LOL
hope my long post helps you, i'm off to below the equator now... heading to the sun,, the beach.... and fun.
it is misfiring, (but may be at a more deep level)
ok, but now test the ecu
insert the diagnostic jumper, pre 96, on your car look for communications loss.
key on , see 12s , sure (pre 96)
now start engine
sill flashing
wait or the same event at 0:15, that anomaly.
does the 12 change cadence? die, or not finish off a code fully, ? ecu bad.
ever check for the classic bad caps in the ECU./?
The scan tool , if you log data, at , 0:15 may show proof of some input to ECU , going bad, on the fly
or the scan tool could show loss of comms....( that happens if ECU reboots while running, not good that)
the , no shraeder, sadly. but and easy add with the rail adapter.
there is an adaptor for the rail. for $13 or
the hose in the kit, with gauge, that fits the 6mm test port on the gas filter banjo.
usually if fuel pressure drops rpm just slowly drops. (the idle controls and FPR like to prevent drops)
121. bad vacuum if , the TPS is working,. not glitching.... only scope sees tps best.
one more test
with timing light attached, to say #1 cyl, at the 0:15 events, does the strobe suddenly halt?
if it halted and injector 1 , id say the CMP is flaky, remove distrib side connector, make sure pins look clean.?
im sure your ISC is ok and the rpm goes below the spec, 800 only because of the gross misfire.. forget rpm find why , spark and fuel drops.
if not spark drop its fuel.
if is fuel loss, might be, fuel pressure, drop or was low all along and drop even more.
egr trick if needed, make sure its closed, parked, engine off
take off top egr hose, top of rear plenum at TB.
off it and plug it with golf tee, end EGR not wanting to close. as a test. parked blip the EGR main 3 times, 1,2,3 (for luck) hear it go thump, thump , that is full closed.
with EGR out of picture can help testing. for sure if likes to stick. some do , but only real hot.
that shudder in misfire. is the cam belt fresh, not slipped, do the sneak a peak test, yet, is the crank pulley at 94ft/lbs an no all discovered loose???????? (this is day 1 check this)
day1, the day you 1st get car. do....on all G16s.
the pump. (Fuel)
29.8–37.0 psi
running, and adds lots more (6psi) gunning engine, the pressure gunned can match key on pressure, (get near) that is 35.6–42.7 psi
pump tests
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html
the front rail adapter
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2267/
the cheap filter hose
harbor FRIGHT(sic)
has this
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/TBI-conn-1w.jpg
for near zero bucks,... is your filter fresh?
conclusion lots of misfire
if not spark causes.
then its fuel.
not sure of lean misfire or rich.
oops made a 97 error above, on code12, (me bad)
http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-inject...92699.html
$20
far right hose is SUZUKI prefect fit.
no cutting anything, ever.
all adapters made , by every one here.. from store bought to hand made....
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/Schrader-vales.html
its holding closed loop at idle.
if yes, id bet the fuel mix is not lean or rich. and is spark dropping out.
closed loop is STOICH.
but ??? that could drop out too.,, so fast you cant see it with scans.
scans are slow on this old slow ECU.
one way to see it, using real scan tool is to set up a scan that only scans one sensor PID at at time
like 02.
log that. mine could do about 10 a sec.
my Palmer software this is super easy
just 1 example (97 has great SCan-abilties if exploited.
see the bottom blue line, you can shut all off and just watch B1S1 (means front 02) to see if it swings fast at idle and not go nuts , at the ):15 event. or at 2500 rpm steady parked hot.
or log rpm
see if it goes to zero at drop. seen in 0:15 event.
the dash guage is a toy, the scan tool will snow true rpm, and FAST response,
or see pending DTC pop (up then off) or see real DTC pop. keep in mind the ECU will clear some spark failure events super fast, like CMP) and that it can't see TPS angle glitches at all(it thinks, its crazy kid driving?LOL)
id watch them all, all PIDS and same time for DTCs , carefully to see any wild changes, at the EVENT. (15)
on a running engine there is vibration
and things like to fail then or hot.
the MAF rap test.
at idle gently rap side of map casing with back handle of screw driver, pretend hitting your teeth this gently,
see RPM change is a bad MAF.
defeat the VSVs? to see if they are messing up, pinch there, input hard vacuum hoses.
what is plenum vacuum steady 19" HG , at hot idle is typical. steady. (but at the 15 Event it will drop, but is victim)
id check spark with my strobe first.... for sure. (strobe = automotive ignition timing light)
note me hitting 64g/s with my maf, Radical flogging the engine, to bench mark it,.....
ignore mpg that is instant mpg, and is low FLOGGED.
LOL
hope my long post helps you, i'm off to below the equator now... heading to the sun,, the beach.... and fun.
http://www.fixkick.com