vsig: USA 1994 G16A 5spd 4wd 2 door has A/C (dead) , and with wrong A/T ECU. (marked US-AT).
the factory , cluster coolant temp. gauge uses the 1 wire sensor, not the 2 wire, ECT.
i'd get the CEL (MIL) working first. so the ECU can talk to you, be best.
1800 RPM hot or cold.?
does the engine reach 180f or more and hold steady there, ? (using any of 3 ways, ECT ohms, pyro gun, or cant hold hand on top rad hose (ouch, hand flies off test)
the ECT is (2wire) will read 300 ohms (about ) when the coolant is at 180F. ( any ohmmeetr works, got one?) this is best way.....2birds 1 stone.
the MIL (CEL) working means, it glows key on, goes out running, and then flashes 12s on demand, 1,2,3 tests.. all matter.
illum. part, the back ground lamps are run of PARK circuit. and a dimmer pot on dash , is knob fully CW for bright max>?
now idle the most complex.
first as always coolant temp,,, does your thermostat have the nice rubber ring? matching the 4mm deep well intake manifold pit for same (this is upgraded intake man used then)
wax side down, and bleed hole uphill ,forward, on the thermostat (3 things to get wrong here)
b11 and b11 go to 12vdc cranking, this allows easy startups.
A6 must not be at ground voltage 0v. or idle up is enabled.
A2 must not be 12vdc or same. idle up. (BTW idle up speed, hot is 1000 RPM)
see page 1,2,3,4 here> the FSM page showing all ECU pin voltages? this must be checked any time hot idle fails, and coolant is at 180F.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU-8v.html
do the paperclip test yet? CEL diagnostic mode? (CEL/MIL)??? codes 12s?
here are some tests:
1: all fuses good. for sure IG-coil, FI and Dome. (engine dies if 1st 2 are bad)
2: key on, CEL lamp glows (aka, MIL)
3
tart engine, check battery voltage near 13.3 to 15v? if lower, Alternator has issues.
4: engine warms, and reaches 180f, if not the thermostat is bad. (or missing that magic rubber ring..)???
if missing you get this.
http://www.fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/Fr...r-cab.html
5: ok, engine finally reaches 180F, so now the ECT reads 300 ohms? (key off, pull ect plug, ohm out the sensor now.)
ok 300 ohms the ECU reads correctly (now the ECU has hope of working right) the ECT has 2 wires, never 1.
6: what was idle RPM cold.? (first start, cold RPM)??
7: what is idle RPM hot? (coolant must be at 180f or above, hot or idle test are useless.... )
8:vacuum hoses not leaking (RPM high) vacuum leaks,
for idle too high, my 1 page covers that. and lots more, idle is the last thing to work right on all EFI controlled engines.
9: throttle cable needs to be slack, 10mm is spec on that, and is seen on my page below....
10: throttle valve, TV must be closed 100% if not fix that now. On a hot 8v engine, only the ISC and TB bleed screw , pass air, and nothing else.
iSC is (electric)
11: the IAC must be closed hot, but if engine is not hot, then the IAC opens. so... 180F is top check, IAC closes at 150F so...(thermal valve)
12: on a hot engine, pinching the IAC air line (2 water 1 air) must cause RPM drop to about 400 rpm or stalls. does it.?
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/fastfix.html
The A/t ECU should be ok, i ran one for 1 full year, just for kicks. (had 2 ECU one A/t and one M/t)
but my wiring was perfect, with working clutch switch.
info overload., but lists are best, see how far you get. saves time...
the factory , cluster coolant temp. gauge uses the 1 wire sensor, not the 2 wire, ECT.
i'd get the CEL (MIL) working first. so the ECU can talk to you, be best.
1800 RPM hot or cold.?
does the engine reach 180f or more and hold steady there, ? (using any of 3 ways, ECT ohms, pyro gun, or cant hold hand on top rad hose (ouch, hand flies off test)
the ECT is (2wire) will read 300 ohms (about ) when the coolant is at 180F. ( any ohmmeetr works, got one?) this is best way.....2birds 1 stone.
the MIL (CEL) working means, it glows key on, goes out running, and then flashes 12s on demand, 1,2,3 tests.. all matter.
illum. part, the back ground lamps are run of PARK circuit. and a dimmer pot on dash , is knob fully CW for bright max>?
now idle the most complex.
first as always coolant temp,,, does your thermostat have the nice rubber ring? matching the 4mm deep well intake manifold pit for same (this is upgraded intake man used then)
wax side down, and bleed hole uphill ,forward, on the thermostat (3 things to get wrong here)
b11 and b11 go to 12vdc cranking, this allows easy startups.
A6 must not be at ground voltage 0v. or idle up is enabled.
A2 must not be 12vdc or same. idle up. (BTW idle up speed, hot is 1000 RPM)
see page 1,2,3,4 here> the FSM page showing all ECU pin voltages? this must be checked any time hot idle fails, and coolant is at 180F.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU-8v.html
do the paperclip test yet? CEL diagnostic mode? (CEL/MIL)??? codes 12s?
here are some tests:
1: all fuses good. for sure IG-coil, FI and Dome. (engine dies if 1st 2 are bad)
2: key on, CEL lamp glows (aka, MIL)
3
tart engine, check battery voltage near 13.3 to 15v? if lower, Alternator has issues.4: engine warms, and reaches 180f, if not the thermostat is bad. (or missing that magic rubber ring..)???
if missing you get this.
http://www.fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/Fr...r-cab.html
5: ok, engine finally reaches 180F, so now the ECT reads 300 ohms? (key off, pull ect plug, ohm out the sensor now.)
ok 300 ohms the ECU reads correctly (now the ECU has hope of working right) the ECT has 2 wires, never 1.
6: what was idle RPM cold.? (first start, cold RPM)??
7: what is idle RPM hot? (coolant must be at 180f or above, hot or idle test are useless.... )
8:vacuum hoses not leaking (RPM high) vacuum leaks,
for idle too high, my 1 page covers that. and lots more, idle is the last thing to work right on all EFI controlled engines.
9: throttle cable needs to be slack, 10mm is spec on that, and is seen on my page below....
10: throttle valve, TV must be closed 100% if not fix that now. On a hot 8v engine, only the ISC and TB bleed screw , pass air, and nothing else.
iSC is (electric)
11: the IAC must be closed hot, but if engine is not hot, then the IAC opens. so... 180F is top check, IAC closes at 150F so...(thermal valve)
12: on a hot engine, pinching the IAC air line (2 water 1 air) must cause RPM drop to about 400 rpm or stalls. does it.?
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/fastfix.html
The A/t ECU should be ok, i ran one for 1 full year, just for kicks. (had 2 ECU one A/t and one M/t)
but my wiring was perfect, with working clutch switch.
info overload., but lists are best, see how far you get. saves time...
http://www.fixkick.com