ok my eyes are still good, DP holds it open that much... Thanks,
i forgot a test, on my iSC page
blow in the air nibble hose off, engine off,
you must not be able to blow.
in hand the 12vdc is not applied (or engine off)
the valve closes at least 99% gently. at zero voltage on coil.
make sure there are on funny bypass air holes seen in the ports. on base side.
is see you point not wanting to kill warranty, trying to adjust the ISC calibration screw.
if it does leak lots of air, as it seems,,,I wonder why Santana did that?
on ours
the isc is at 50% flow and the bleed provides all air (together) , to get the duty near 50%
no matter what , if the bleed gets you to 50% duty, its good to go....mostly...
the exception to that, is if there is a vacuum leak that is changing all the time, like a brake booster bad can do (cracked diaphragm)
seen cars you step on brake pedal and idle control is lost.
cheers and good luck.
i forgot a test, on my iSC page
blow in the air nibble hose off, engine off,
you must not be able to blow.
in hand the 12vdc is not applied (or engine off)
the valve closes at least 99% gently. at zero voltage on coil.
make sure there are on funny bypass air holes seen in the ports. on base side.
is see you point not wanting to kill warranty, trying to adjust the ISC calibration screw.
if it does leak lots of air, as it seems,,,I wonder why Santana did that?
on ours
the isc is at 50% flow and the bleed provides all air (together) , to get the duty near 50%
no matter what , if the bleed gets you to 50% duty, its good to go....mostly...
the exception to that, is if there is a vacuum leak that is changing all the time, like a brake booster bad can do (cracked diaphragm)
seen cars you step on brake pedal and idle control is lost.
cheers and good luck.
http://www.fixkick.com