yes the pcv valve is a check valve and orifice. one guy here, had Lincoln huge V8 engine PCV valve attached, and it has a huge orifice . bad.
tracheotomy , very funny this,, thanks, made my day.
and i saw your photo of you palm, with red rings, (sorry) and stalling engine that way, did it? one guy here last year, did that and engine ran....
example
ok engine runs good.
isc pinch engine runs so i starve engine with bleed, still runs (bad hard fail here) and if the palm test fails, to stall engine, the intake manifold has leaks.
so,, i then block the brake booster.
i then(no order here but must do them all) I pinch all hoses. all vsv hard vacuum plenun side hoses. all hoses can be pinched or corked up, and rpm fails to drop.
if RPM drops that hose leaks air.
EGR body or gasket not leaking fresh air, (vacuum here) sucking air.
map sensor hose not leaking or map nipple broken off. sucking air.
IAT sensor broken sucking air.
PCV leaking , (means above the spec, orifice amount (tiny) means not crack pcv or hose, or wrong PCV.
some guy put a 3speed A/T intake (i cant for life of may know what transmission is on your car, you need a signature,) but this 3sp has huge vacuum nipple on the top rear of the intake manifold and it can leak, or be broken and if on a 5speed some on forgot to block it.
the 3speed has TB base heater and 2 gaskets that can leak not just 1 like the 5speed cars...
ok , that is it for easy leaks.
of all those do not leak(RPM drops when blocked) then the head to intake manifold is bad cracked or missing.
last last last, intake manifold cracked. (has to be if all the above do not leak air) the hard way.. but proven...
those car repair guys that do statistical failures. can not fix cars. they guess, and see this huge list of causes.. for misfire its over 50 causes. (endless, )
ASE schools teach how to do real diagnosis. (using about 10 cheap tools and with EVIDENCE you follow that, like CSI does on TV, follow the facts)
but in this case its easy.
you did the tests. and you have a leak (vacuum leak) but we dont know why exactly
and like most leaks it will not get better, they get worse. mostly.
dont get me wrong, this engine runs great with AIR leaks, rpm can be excessive, mpg lower, slipping the clutch can be a challenge. but it drives
and will drive like that for a long time if not forever (effectively)
really this is the beautify of the 8v TBI, this.
and if say you had a tiny, air leak, say this tiny crack in a hose that by fate seem not to get worse
the ISC will hide that error. and correct it, i can do that very easy, and duty rises above 50% is the only clue...... hidden from view.
i said all that because other dont wont to fix it ,just hide it.... and can be done for a while... if not excessive..... i think yours is excessive.
the engine sucks 400cc of air, every 180degress of crank rotation, somehow there is leak allowing that much air or 1/2.... and runs.... like magic..
for sure you are on track. (no pun)
please fill out your signature.... i have trouble keeping it in my old 68yo brain.... sorry.
Vitara JLK Santana - G16A - 8 valves, doors?, 4wd? 3/4/5? speed transmission.
all hoses can be pinched.
except (2) the brake booster, it has a metal pipe and very hard hose. (so i CORK it,or use rubber stopper) remove cork restart , retest.
the map is also tricky if you pinch it the map can read 0" vacuum and engine goes way rich and slows.. fooling you.
so on the map sensor i never pinch that. hose. make sure the plenum side sucks air pulled a second, that hose is not cracked?, then make sure the map sensor is not cracked
i use my handy dandy hand vacuum tool and pump up by hand say 10 inches HG vacuum and see that it holds there.. ok ,NO leaks on the map side.
this is what i do... to find all air leaks, besides pinching.
in the end the "processes of elimination" proves what is bad, last , is a true manifold leak, gaskets or cracks. or even a loose manfold on the the.
i skipped TV stuck open because its not. and is new.
a good mech , once the leaking air is seen.... all tests are like 1 hours work, blocking hoses etc. and working directly to the true cause.
and last ordering a new intake gasket , and he then does the text book is my manifold or head warped test.
the book shows you that we take a steel ruler. and and feeler gauges, and check both surfaces for .0015" max warp... (i can look it up this number is off cuff)
this engine has a steel gasket there and is very unforgiving if warp-age.
tracheotomy , very funny this,, thanks, made my day.
and i saw your photo of you palm, with red rings, (sorry) and stalling engine that way, did it? one guy here last year, did that and engine ran....
example
ok engine runs good.
isc pinch engine runs so i starve engine with bleed, still runs (bad hard fail here) and if the palm test fails, to stall engine, the intake manifold has leaks.
so,, i then block the brake booster.
i then(no order here but must do them all) I pinch all hoses. all vsv hard vacuum plenun side hoses. all hoses can be pinched or corked up, and rpm fails to drop.
if RPM drops that hose leaks air.
EGR body or gasket not leaking fresh air, (vacuum here) sucking air.
map sensor hose not leaking or map nipple broken off. sucking air.
IAT sensor broken sucking air.
PCV leaking , (means above the spec, orifice amount (tiny) means not crack pcv or hose, or wrong PCV.
some guy put a 3speed A/T intake (i cant for life of may know what transmission is on your car, you need a signature,) but this 3sp has huge vacuum nipple on the top rear of the intake manifold and it can leak, or be broken and if on a 5speed some on forgot to block it.
the 3speed has TB base heater and 2 gaskets that can leak not just 1 like the 5speed cars...
ok , that is it for easy leaks.
of all those do not leak(RPM drops when blocked) then the head to intake manifold is bad cracked or missing.
last last last, intake manifold cracked. (has to be if all the above do not leak air) the hard way.. but proven...
those car repair guys that do statistical failures. can not fix cars. they guess, and see this huge list of causes.. for misfire its over 50 causes. (endless, )
ASE schools teach how to do real diagnosis. (using about 10 cheap tools and with EVIDENCE you follow that, like CSI does on TV, follow the facts)
but in this case its easy.
you did the tests. and you have a leak (vacuum leak) but we dont know why exactly
and like most leaks it will not get better, they get worse. mostly.
dont get me wrong, this engine runs great with AIR leaks, rpm can be excessive, mpg lower, slipping the clutch can be a challenge. but it drives
and will drive like that for a long time if not forever (effectively)
really this is the beautify of the 8v TBI, this.
and if say you had a tiny, air leak, say this tiny crack in a hose that by fate seem not to get worse
the ISC will hide that error. and correct it, i can do that very easy, and duty rises above 50% is the only clue...... hidden from view.
i said all that because other dont wont to fix it ,just hide it.... and can be done for a while... if not excessive..... i think yours is excessive.
the engine sucks 400cc of air, every 180degress of crank rotation, somehow there is leak allowing that much air or 1/2.... and runs.... like magic..
for sure you are on track. (no pun)
please fill out your signature.... i have trouble keeping it in my old 68yo brain.... sorry.
Vitara JLK Santana - G16A - 8 valves, doors?, 4wd? 3/4/5? speed transmission.
all hoses can be pinched.
except (2) the brake booster, it has a metal pipe and very hard hose. (so i CORK it,or use rubber stopper) remove cork restart , retest.
the map is also tricky if you pinch it the map can read 0" vacuum and engine goes way rich and slows.. fooling you.
so on the map sensor i never pinch that. hose. make sure the plenum side sucks air pulled a second, that hose is not cracked?, then make sure the map sensor is not cracked
i use my handy dandy hand vacuum tool and pump up by hand say 10 inches HG vacuum and see that it holds there.. ok ,NO leaks on the map side.
this is what i do... to find all air leaks, besides pinching.
in the end the "processes of elimination" proves what is bad, last , is a true manifold leak, gaskets or cracks. or even a loose manfold on the the.
i skipped TV stuck open because its not. and is new.
a good mech , once the leaking air is seen.... all tests are like 1 hours work, blocking hoses etc. and working directly to the true cause.
and last ordering a new intake gasket , and he then does the text book is my manifold or head warped test.
the book shows you that we take a steel ruler. and and feeler gauges, and check both surfaces for .0015" max warp... (i can look it up this number is off cuff)
this engine has a steel gasket there and is very unforgiving if warp-age.
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