redux 1
P to R clunk! why
hot , cold or both engine (was hot rpm 800 and cold 1500 and if yes, which one makes a clunk both are is RPM out of spec (high RPM will cause jerk in P>R)!!!!
the solenoids DO NOT engages REVERSE , they only operator in DRIVE< 1,2,3,4 , if they stick open or closed then 1,2,3,4 fails. DOES DRIVE FAIL> (i bet not)
so end solenoid worry, and costs, and all that. (and the TCC solenoid ,)
but the VALVE body has a regulator and accumulators that prevent , radical engagement of the CLUTCH PACKS. they are engaged gently.
the first check is RPM you never said and RPM is horse power, and if you have too much going in to R, then it will be traumatic, (see Toyota's huge lawsuit on that?)
if the clunk happens at 800 RPM (did it)
then we check the drive shaft end to end for play. or missing or loose bolts and bad u-joints.
if all that is tight.
the the valve body has issues. end story, in that order.
no need to respond until the.
RPM is stated. (and hot cold engine or both.)
the P>R shift in transfer case neutral is done....
and hands on drive shaft for play is checked, and watching it, while turning the drive shaft by hand, and yanking it hard in all directions look for PLAY.
this is first never the transmission until last.
you cant hurt hit , yanking the drive shift, i even pry it with a 2 foot , 2x4" board. watching for lateral play in all parts in view.
P to R clunk! why
hot , cold or both engine (was hot rpm 800 and cold 1500 and if yes, which one makes a clunk both are is RPM out of spec (high RPM will cause jerk in P>R)!!!!
the solenoids DO NOT engages REVERSE , they only operator in DRIVE< 1,2,3,4 , if they stick open or closed then 1,2,3,4 fails. DOES DRIVE FAIL> (i bet not)
so end solenoid worry, and costs, and all that. (and the TCC solenoid ,)
but the VALVE body has a regulator and accumulators that prevent , radical engagement of the CLUTCH PACKS. they are engaged gently.
the first check is RPM you never said and RPM is horse power, and if you have too much going in to R, then it will be traumatic, (see Toyota's huge lawsuit on that?)
if the clunk happens at 800 RPM (did it)
then we check the drive shaft end to end for play. or missing or loose bolts and bad u-joints.
if all that is tight.
the the valve body has issues. end story, in that order.
no need to respond until the.
RPM is stated. (and hot cold engine or both.)
the P>R shift in transfer case neutral is done....
and hands on drive shaft for play is checked, and watching it, while turning the drive shaft by hand, and yanking it hard in all directions look for PLAY.
this is first never the transmission until last.
you cant hurt hit , yanking the drive shift, i even pry it with a 2 foot , 2x4" board. watching for lateral play in all parts in view.
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