(07-19-2013, 12:07 PM)dynabill Wrote: hey Jerry thanks for the quick reply. I started testing the evap canister, and I cant blow air thru either pipe. the tank pipe is the one coming from the passenger side, and hooked to what looks like a gas line, which they are calling the tank line, gas tank I finally figure out, haha. So maybe this is the culprit? it is old and beat up looking evap canister. rock wants $143 for this gem, guess I will take a look at the junk yards, lol. Also, My first thought was the gas gap, but when I unscrewed it the first night it threw the code, I had good pressure escaping from it. Is there a test for the gas cap?
bill
p.s. I just ordered the Autel MaxiScan MS509 from amazon, be 5-8 days before I get it tho.
the gas cap, has a vacuum breaker. if its good and not allowing air to go from inside cap to out side its good.
if you get the Whoosh sound its holding tank fumes and pressure. that is GOOD cap.
the vacuum breaker stops a catastrophic vacuum collapse of the gas tank.
At the smog station they test the cap , then fit a pressure tester to the gas tank, and see if it holds pressure, (im not sure but guess at 2 psi?)
if not they fail you, not even turning on the key yet, (EVAP 2 finds this error too, and is why EVAP 2 exists, and is used till now 2013)
Evap2 system has 3 solenoid valves, see B chapter last post.
the FSM is very weak on EVAP 2 testing. very much. but the do have you blow air (use the vacuum tool) from VSV out to VSV IN (purge)
keyoff , no air must flow thru the VSV;
i wish i know which system you have, 1 or 2 evap.?
1 solenoid or 3.?
there are lots of tests, on EVAP2 , way more. lots of things can fail.
1: the tank, all hose, all parts. related, leaks, or bad vacuum lines, or bad VSVs (up to 3) bad reg, bad gas cap. or ECU controls dead or stuck.
let me know how you do.
to correct the FSM.
1: Do not blow or suck with mouth or lips, any fuel parts (benzene is a known carcinogen) Keep in mind the EVAP canister is Benzene trap, it saves up this nasty solvent, one of the worst)
2: but do use a mityvac or HF clone hand vacuum tool , it can do wonders.
the tool can be used to test, all parts,
1: vsv 100%
2: all hoses, , plug one end ,suck other.
3: diaphram leak down tests.
4: you can test that the canister is not clogged up.
5: it can test the reg./check valve near tank. this vent valve, only sucks from front to rear. do not suck from rear of this valve, because that is closed at all times, in that direction(check valve action)
but you can in fact suck the front hose going to the REG. and IT must start up to open at a low secret vacuum (it's just a simple spring valve in the forward direction) (there are 2 tests for this valve, check action and not stuck open)
i dont think you can test the tank air tightness with such a tool, that takes a pressure test, using shop air.
I use a modified, gas cap (added air nipple) and a low pressure paint spray reg. set to 1 psi. (shop air system) then pump my gas tank up; 1 psi to see if it holds pressure, if not , i find the leak, (usually only EVAP2 systems need this harder test, or tank fumes, make me nuts)
to find main fuel tank leaks, pinch off or plug all hoses to tane, or use soapy water spray on said hose to see bubbles. (or with hose to EAR, play it around parts to find a hiss sound)
block the reg , if that stops the leak the REG is stuck open. Reg means , Tank pressure control valve.
on EVAP2 it is a horrible tricky device. testing a 3 hose REG ,i'd not try, id replace it when all tests pass above. But finding one stuck open is easy.
sorry for long post but vacuum and air leaks are the most complex of all problems, to cure.
IF Evap 1, ?
i try first to see if the ECU is finding NO AIR flow, or too much. knowing what it finds, is the best clue to the solution. in every case. (but can be hard to discover this)
These old cars have piss poor docs on ECU actions. for most OBD monitors newer cars they flat out tell you , all tests done. and precisely how.
but we can sort it, for sure.
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