never mix rod caps. or main caps..... they are all machined as one piece. do not even rotate any caps. (mark all parts, so that they are not rotated wrong
the rods also have a front and back side. this is already marked. on the caps. (and a special oil squirt-er)
put the 16v pistons on the 8v rods,
the engine blocks (shells?) are the same , but not the pistons. nor mix the front cog for cam belt drive. 8 to 16v.
DAY 1 (means what happened, the day engine was built)
the rods are bored, with caps in place, so. that means , not to mix caps, nor rotate them. (worse yet is the forward marks, must not be scrambled)
Block mains are LINE bored at once. and must not be upset or caps mixed in any ways... or rotated. do not mix caps from any cylinder, ever.
the main bearing shells. can not be mixed up , willy nilly, they are color coded in 10 grades. (not trivial at all this fit up)
engine blocks are not shells, bearing shells, are.... (the terms matter)
the pistons have a front arrow. (the pistons have a thrust side unless piston slap is fun to hear, LOL !)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/Piston-rod/Pist-top.JPG
the piston tops have a 1 or 2 on top (or if not stock, other marks, very important)
the #1 marked piston are the smallest. 2 is bigger.
the rods (see #5 in link) have and oil squirt'er hole, that must point to the intake side of block (shell?)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...m-end.html
one other very serious issues. that is called ring swept areas
id bet the 8v and 16v pistons do not sweep the same areas. so
so that means the top rings will then hit the upper cylinder ridge from the old 8v piston and cause those old rings to very bad real fast.
you need to hone this engine and uses new rings.
(assumes the micrometer readings pass per the fsm pages)
read chapter 6a yet>? (16v only)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...m-end.html
see page 41, 'important"---------pg 43 piston codes. see the ring direction marks....page 44.
i have no idea at all what wear is on those cylinders.
nor the original factory measurements. (we only get the range, stated, not real)
now lets say 2 things, the engine has no wear (ive not seen it nor used my Micrometers on it....
and say on day 1,(factory line) the cylinder wall measured, 2.9528" so the man stamped the wall as #2 hole, per page 44
lets pretend its a 1 cylinder engine, to save 3 more long steps.
so the factory man , grabs a #1 piston by mistake (or you)
then puts that #1 stamped piston in that #2 hole, (omg its tight) how tight, its .0004" clearance. (as tight as...) there is .0003" variance on new #2 pistons
that wont FLY.
that table figure 96 does not lie.
this is why a machinist uses his MIKES. to see what you have and to get a "picture"of what happened day1, (low mileage engines)
then the bearings, 10x more hard. due to lots of sub sizes.... cant just mix parts. they must be fitted correctly.
here is the piston wall math.
#2 wall minimum 2.9528
#1 piston max.. 2.9524
------------------------------- (minus
0.0004" clearance, (ILLEGAL interference fit.....!)
page 64
the correct spec range piston to wall is
.0008 to 0.00015"
such is the realities of 1990's , gang boring cylinders (crude and must be hand fitted with graded parts) the same with all journals.
the above, is what can happen. (ive not done the MIKE sessions yet)
what will happen is only pure luck, lacking those tools.
one of the most complex topics on earth, building and engine...
#2 pistons and walls are the smaller grades.
putting in #1s pistons to #2 bores, is asking for trouble. IMO
the piston top mark 61G00 is the suz, pn. for standard size grade 2. (there are 4 sizes total) if boring engine, aftermarket pistons have many larger sizes but no sub grades, that is because we can bore the cylinders to .0001" accuracy, something suzuki can't do.... or loth to do...
better is to mike the walls,of the cylinders in block.
find the tight point (bottom region will be that on any used engine)
then mike the piston (widest point) (pistons are cam ground, and are not round, cold) so.. measure wide points like the FSM shows.
.0008" is the most tight allowed, there is no other ways.. unless boring the engine cylinders.
the rods also have a front and back side. this is already marked. on the caps. (and a special oil squirt-er)
put the 16v pistons on the 8v rods,
the engine blocks (shells?) are the same , but not the pistons. nor mix the front cog for cam belt drive. 8 to 16v.
DAY 1 (means what happened, the day engine was built)
the rods are bored, with caps in place, so. that means , not to mix caps, nor rotate them. (worse yet is the forward marks, must not be scrambled)
Block mains are LINE bored at once. and must not be upset or caps mixed in any ways... or rotated. do not mix caps from any cylinder, ever.
the main bearing shells. can not be mixed up , willy nilly, they are color coded in 10 grades. (not trivial at all this fit up)
engine blocks are not shells, bearing shells, are.... (the terms matter)
the pistons have a front arrow. (the pistons have a thrust side unless piston slap is fun to hear, LOL !)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/Piston-rod/Pist-top.JPG
the piston tops have a 1 or 2 on top (or if not stock, other marks, very important)
the #1 marked piston are the smallest. 2 is bigger.
the rods (see #5 in link) have and oil squirt'er hole, that must point to the intake side of block (shell?)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...m-end.html
one other very serious issues. that is called ring swept areas
id bet the 8v and 16v pistons do not sweep the same areas. so
so that means the top rings will then hit the upper cylinder ridge from the old 8v piston and cause those old rings to very bad real fast.
you need to hone this engine and uses new rings.
(assumes the micrometer readings pass per the fsm pages)
read chapter 6a yet>? (16v only)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...m-end.html
see page 41, 'important"---------pg 43 piston codes. see the ring direction marks....page 44.
i have no idea at all what wear is on those cylinders.
nor the original factory measurements. (we only get the range, stated, not real)
now lets say 2 things, the engine has no wear (ive not seen it nor used my Micrometers on it....
and say on day 1,(factory line) the cylinder wall measured, 2.9528" so the man stamped the wall as #2 hole, per page 44
lets pretend its a 1 cylinder engine, to save 3 more long steps.
so the factory man , grabs a #1 piston by mistake (or you)
then puts that #1 stamped piston in that #2 hole, (omg its tight) how tight, its .0004" clearance. (as tight as...) there is .0003" variance on new #2 pistons
that wont FLY.
that table figure 96 does not lie.
this is why a machinist uses his MIKES. to see what you have and to get a "picture"of what happened day1, (low mileage engines)
then the bearings, 10x more hard. due to lots of sub sizes.... cant just mix parts. they must be fitted correctly.
here is the piston wall math.
#2 wall minimum 2.9528
#1 piston max.. 2.9524
------------------------------- (minus
0.0004" clearance, (ILLEGAL interference fit.....!)
page 64
the correct spec range piston to wall is
.0008 to 0.00015"
such is the realities of 1990's , gang boring cylinders (crude and must be hand fitted with graded parts) the same with all journals.
the above, is what can happen. (ive not done the MIKE sessions yet)
what will happen is only pure luck, lacking those tools.
one of the most complex topics on earth, building and engine...
#2 pistons and walls are the smaller grades.
putting in #1s pistons to #2 bores, is asking for trouble. IMO
the piston top mark 61G00 is the suz, pn. for standard size grade 2. (there are 4 sizes total) if boring engine, aftermarket pistons have many larger sizes but no sub grades, that is because we can bore the cylinders to .0001" accuracy, something suzuki can't do.... or loth to do...
better is to mike the walls,of the cylinders in block.
find the tight point (bottom region will be that on any used engine)
then mike the piston (widest point) (pistons are cam ground, and are not round, cold) so.. measure wide points like the FSM shows.
.0008" is the most tight allowed, there is no other ways.. unless boring the engine cylinders.
http://www.fixkick.com