the bleed screw (air) is on the top front of the TB, upper half, air horn.
it is just a cone valve. screws, that lets in air, this screw, adjusts duty cycle.
i bet that 180f coolant (in rad) is above 150f after 20min, and IAC is still closed. that is 100% normal.
the factory screws are just 2, main throttle stop. screw, and the ISC side 5mm allen screw.
all other screws are for the service of car and are all covered in the FSM book , not one is a secret but that 2 first screws.
that videos , the audio sounds like engine is misfiring badly..... why? or is this just poor audio, (could be)
this comment i can not understand below.
'But If I pinch the air hose as you can see also in the photo gallery and when I start the engine in HOT and the idle is about 1000 r.p.m, the idle come down to 800 r.p.m, and if I stop pinching, it return again to 1000 '
ok, you start the hot engine. and it might stick at 1000 , but for how long, seconds? 1 min?
but when did pinch it.
wait until its 800 rpm hot, then pinch it, if the RPM does not drop to like 400 and stall you have a huge air leak.
understand there is no air flowing during that pinch except the bleed,
1: ISC is now pinched off, a the air tube (not water)
2: the IAC is closed, 100% if water temp is 3180F, (i use pyro guns to see truth)
3; TV is 99.9% closes, it flows zero air. now.
you have a massive air leak.
not sure where.
but do.
4: the bleed is the air supply now... very little flows here. some does, if 1/2 open or fully. but i cant count your turns open so... guess.
but it must stall.
IF not you have leaks. the above proves that.
the ISC unpinched hot is doing an amazing job hot , trying hard to hide your leak. as ive suspected all along. the 800/1000 jogging hot is the iSC gaining control then loosing it. (leaks big time)
if the mech did his job, read the FSM , he would have seen the duty check and found duty cycle way off , closing the bleed.
again he bleed is here.
this hole has a black rubber plug, remove it. behold the bleed (duty cycle adjuster)
![[Image: idle-bleed1w.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/idle-bleed1w.jpg)
EG:
the scope view of duty cycle failing?
would be the SIGNAL is most the time at near 0v , ECU trying in great desperation, to get the idle to spec. RPM but can't , or does rarely.
this shows the mech, that the DUTY is way the heck off. it is shown in the FSM book to set it to 50% hot, on all G16s made.
0v is closed valve. ISC
12v is wide open valve. (modulated)
elaborate that pinch test again. please.
start at
HOT.
and 800RPM HOT
then pinch the ISC air hose, what is RPM?
now set bleed closed 100% gently, (turn screw as you pinch it, what is RPM now (stalled is correct answer)) (its not a FACTORY SCREW at all its a standard service point)
law of the west. engine can not run with zero air supply, if it does?, BINGO>.
this is a very common failure. on all engines. old.
duty signals. (air leaks look like wave top 1 of 3)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ISC/pwm2.jpg
if say the engine runs with ISC air line pinched, (i use a C clamp)
then i then start pinching hoses every where!, to see if one is leaking air . do not skip possible lines that can leak,.... due care looking.
on this 8v engine, all points to the plenum that can leak air are suspect. (aka vacuum leaks)
one guy here, had and EGR that was cracked in half, sucking air. he sent a photo of that, and we said , gee you didnt see that huge crack on the side,? LOL
the EGR can be blocked with a solid gasket at its base. (made by hand or even a Cereal box paper for testing.
ok seen this little horror too.
the mech fails to buy real gaskets on the TB. so fails to block those hole seen here.
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...view1W.jpg
see those 5 small holes, they must never be unblocked, on a running car.
here is the kit that covers the holes correctly.
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...ge_19.html
if only i could watch you do the pinch test. im sure your doing it right.
but????
what is rpm after the pinch. ?
the 800 and 1000 rpm , forget this, its just the ECU cant control ISC, as is all so common with air leaks. forget it.
concentrate on the ISC pinch, do it step by stem and report RPMs...
in your mind, imagine all air supplies end, and imagine it stalling... or almost stalls...
ive never done a ISC pinch with the bleed backed off 100%. so it might run at 400 rpm and shake hard the engine.
did the mech use the right base gaskets? or just used RTV?
the devil really is in the details.
it is just a cone valve. screws, that lets in air, this screw, adjusts duty cycle.
i bet that 180f coolant (in rad) is above 150f after 20min, and IAC is still closed. that is 100% normal.
the factory screws are just 2, main throttle stop. screw, and the ISC side 5mm allen screw.
all other screws are for the service of car and are all covered in the FSM book , not one is a secret but that 2 first screws.
that videos , the audio sounds like engine is misfiring badly..... why? or is this just poor audio, (could be)
this comment i can not understand below.
'But If I pinch the air hose as you can see also in the photo gallery and when I start the engine in HOT and the idle is about 1000 r.p.m, the idle come down to 800 r.p.m, and if I stop pinching, it return again to 1000 '
ok, you start the hot engine. and it might stick at 1000 , but for how long, seconds? 1 min?
but when did pinch it.
wait until its 800 rpm hot, then pinch it, if the RPM does not drop to like 400 and stall you have a huge air leak.
understand there is no air flowing during that pinch except the bleed,
1: ISC is now pinched off, a the air tube (not water)
2: the IAC is closed, 100% if water temp is 3180F, (i use pyro guns to see truth)
3; TV is 99.9% closes, it flows zero air. now.
you have a massive air leak.
not sure where.
but do.
4: the bleed is the air supply now... very little flows here. some does, if 1/2 open or fully. but i cant count your turns open so... guess.
but it must stall.
IF not you have leaks. the above proves that.
the ISC unpinched hot is doing an amazing job hot , trying hard to hide your leak. as ive suspected all along. the 800/1000 jogging hot is the iSC gaining control then loosing it. (leaks big time)
if the mech did his job, read the FSM , he would have seen the duty check and found duty cycle way off , closing the bleed.
again he bleed is here.
this hole has a black rubber plug, remove it. behold the bleed (duty cycle adjuster)
EG:
the scope view of duty cycle failing?
would be the SIGNAL is most the time at near 0v , ECU trying in great desperation, to get the idle to spec. RPM but can't , or does rarely.
this shows the mech, that the DUTY is way the heck off. it is shown in the FSM book to set it to 50% hot, on all G16s made.
0v is closed valve. ISC
12v is wide open valve. (modulated)
elaborate that pinch test again. please.
start at
HOT.
and 800RPM HOT
then pinch the ISC air hose, what is RPM?
now set bleed closed 100% gently, (turn screw as you pinch it, what is RPM now (stalled is correct answer)) (its not a FACTORY SCREW at all its a standard service point)
law of the west. engine can not run with zero air supply, if it does?, BINGO>.
this is a very common failure. on all engines. old.
duty signals. (air leaks look like wave top 1 of 3)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ISC/pwm2.jpg
if say the engine runs with ISC air line pinched, (i use a C clamp)
then i then start pinching hoses every where!, to see if one is leaking air . do not skip possible lines that can leak,.... due care looking.
on this 8v engine, all points to the plenum that can leak air are suspect. (aka vacuum leaks)
one guy here, had and EGR that was cracked in half, sucking air. he sent a photo of that, and we said , gee you didnt see that huge crack on the side,? LOL
the EGR can be blocked with a solid gasket at its base. (made by hand or even a Cereal box paper for testing.
ok seen this little horror too.
the mech fails to buy real gaskets on the TB. so fails to block those hole seen here.
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...view1W.jpg
see those 5 small holes, they must never be unblocked, on a running car.
here is the kit that covers the holes correctly.
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...ge_19.html
if only i could watch you do the pinch test. im sure your doing it right.
but????
what is rpm after the pinch. ?
the 800 and 1000 rpm , forget this, its just the ECU cant control ISC, as is all so common with air leaks. forget it.
concentrate on the ISC pinch, do it step by stem and report RPMs...
in your mind, imagine all air supplies end, and imagine it stalling... or almost stalls...
ive never done a ISC pinch with the bleed backed off 100%. so it might run at 400 rpm and shake hard the engine.
did the mech use the right base gaskets? or just used RTV?
the devil really is in the details.
http://www.fixkick.com