10-29-2015, 10:32 PM
(10-26-2015, 11:31 PM)fixkick Wrote: the rpms cold are all table drive, and like this :
1: DP rpm is calibrated hot. but when cold is UNDEFINED and is high.
2: the IAC closes at 150, the RPM is undefined, what you get depends on engine temp and water temps., and engine friction , altitude, and age of engine (weak)?
3: ISC is run 800 or 1000 rpm depends on fast idle pin.
why not use the gallery button above, it works, and is free. just dont post 65 inch photos, like most modern cameras do.. they need to be shrunk to say your desk/lap top sizes.. 800x600 or 1024 wide, is best.
Spain, TBI, that is Santana. i cant talk about Santanas, sorry, how TBI is set there and ECU tuning ,ive no clue.
ok yes, that is rubber covered cone valve in the IAC with steel seat that is factory set. id never mess with that. why wreck s new IAC?
that is extreme in my book. why do that? and a very expensive part to just hack on, right?
yes, you are just like me,,, yes, i do cut open all parts to see how they really work, there is no better way (xray machine, yes, done that too, had one at work"lab")
i guess you never found my slide show, its online for 7+ years.
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...age_9.html
see how i reversed engineered those gaps, there.?????
i even used wifes deep freezer -10f, to get that data point, see that. see how it opens real wide , real cold?? 40f is main refer temps.
this photo proves that the colder it is, the faster runs,,, a hard cold fact (no pun)
your TBI is same as ours. has hot water ISC< (unlike any 89/90 here)
has bleed screw, you have one right??????
my work allowed me to block the IAC to find all vacuum leaks in the plenum.
on some engines, you can block the IAC with clay, or the top suction port or at the base and find that the engine still races fast... huge leaks,
the TPS is all carbon.
i mention that because many cars like this, the switch is gold
gold has 0 ohms closed
but not carbon
and that must be known first., to test it. the fsm TPS calib page or mine.
the switch is set with a feelter gauge, set, and ohmmeter ( to below 500 ohms) below 500 the ECU sets, IDLE MODE.
if set wrong
1: too high, the idle never happens.
2: too low, and the idle mode fights you , when you just TIP-in the throttle a bit. (felt is this very odd , hesitation then)
why is gap 2mm (TV) it must not be, on all Vitara's of any kind,
do you have bleed screw?
how do it set this up, asssuming worst case (some are)
1: test and calibrate the TPS, (so idle switch is perfect)
2: make sure cam belt not slipped and timing at spec with timing freeze jumper set, (seem spark time page on how)
3: DP works, (it does)
4: the TV is 99.9% closed)
5: IAC closes at 150f , im sure it did and does.. now.
6: get engine not. does , heater fan on and headlights on ,not cause RPM to drop below 800 (can bump down for 1second, ecu is slow beast)
7: ok now we pinch the ISC air hose (not the 2 water lines)
does rpm drop to like 400 rpm or stall, good there are no huge plenum leaks, im very happy as leaks are long hard cure... can be. or just cracked hoses.
8: no know , there are no leaks, and i set duty cycle, and #6 starts to work later after duty setup.
thats pretty much it.
unless DP rpm is not liked, it is high, no lie and in USA EPA rules make it so... here..
the IAC closes at 150f. but if its runs to fast cold? (IT WILL by same laws) but that is what wet fuel TBI NEEDs to stop pooling of liquid fuel.....
if you screw in the annular ring (factory set ) in IAC, the valve closes at a lower temp than 150f , a fact. and will really confuse the hell out of any ECU.
the tables in the ECU are all keyed off 150f
(the ecu goes to warm up mode then) going to warmed up mode early has nothing but BAD , all bad, that.......
why do that?
why lie to ECU ever, it's not all that smart of an ecu, to begin with, and slow.
all TBI look just like this (DP defeated)
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...ge_21.html
all,
why is yours wrong? i cant guess why.... but is very very curious event..... id be all over that, fast.
my guess, is the TBI was put on a car with dead isc.
and then hacked to add air..... but that is just a wild guess based on what folks did last 10 years... seen.....
do not doe this on a good TPS. below.
all carbon, the pot (throttle angle) is carbon
and so is the switch. all on this ceramic substrate (base)
http://www.fixkick.com/TPS/TPS-v8a.jpg
we can fix bad idle issues on any car.
i dont use the smoke machine unless desperate (very tricky testing)
what i do is starve engine of air, step by step and find offending parts...
one guy had a TBI that had freeze damage in side that caused and air leak that seemed, impossible, but was realty.(a cruel beast)
Hi, well I have some news to tell you that I discovered in these days..
Yes, I never saw your slide photo about IAC valve, you said is an expensive parts but because I don't see it was sealed on factory without paint or silicone I move it, but I squeezed two rounds and I signed with marker the exact place where it was when came from Factory. But because I never saw r.pm to 2000 before and this's not very good to the cylinder without any oil to lubricate them, and because we are in autumn time, I did that.. But I can put the ring on the same place again and I don't wanted to lie to ECU, of course, was not my intention but my ignorance..
So you said me about head lights, well, if when idle is normalized to 800 r.p.m and I turn on the switch lights the idle come down to 700 r.p.m only for half second, then go again to 800 r.p.m, and if I turn off go up to 900 r.pm for half second too, go again to 800 r.p.m, so according to your information this's normal ?..
Then I have to saiy you sorry, because the TV is not separate from the lower screw sealed from Factory, I was wrong, I believed that, because the perspective view from that area is difficult to see and is so dark too.. But trying to test it I used a mirror and my photo camera and take some pictures and I saw very well that TV is doing full contact (photo in Gallery) with the lower screw, then you was right about is difficult that was happening.. Althought you konw also in old carburator the throttle valve in the axle extreme sometimes and because long time using would have like "steps" or recess, but this's not the case, so this point is forget..
Maybe and because you advice me to see coolant temperature and I knew about was possible too, I have bought a new termostat but I'm waiting before replce it to ask you some question..
1ª The radiator water is full until neck, has a new radiator cap, as you know, but the plastic tank is always two centimeters under the low mark, doesn't matter if the engine is hot after 500 kilometers or if the engine is could, if I refill water just between the full and low marker in the plastic tank, and after three days more or less, will be two centimeter under the low mark again, like this is working about one month and a half ago, but I think is working like this during many years, perhaps, the termostat don't close as in a correct way ? But this is only my opinion, of course, what do you think about ?..
2ª And the next is very curious, and is about to pinch ISC air hose, so when I start in hot and the idle speed is in 1000 r.p.m and I press or pinch with my fingers the air hose automatically idle speed come down to 800 r.p.m, and if I stopped pressing the air hose idle speed go to 1000 r.p.m again, but if I move TV to accelerate a little by my hand or pedal, the idle speed come down to 800 r.pm. and if in that moment I press again that air hose then nothing anormal happen, the idle speed continue in 800 r.p.m all the time, then the idle working correctly driving htrough the strrets, traffic light, stop.. Yes, is a curious event....
I think, only my opinion, that when start in hot and idle speed is in 1000 r.p.m, the ISC is open as is normal working in a correct way, then the air is entering through ISC to the engine, but maybe there is some air extra coming from from anywhere so the engine is working at 1000 r.p.m, and when I accelerate the engine something happen about engine depresiion or vacuum into the engine and then the idle is right.. You have a new clue and important proof now, I think..
You say "On some engines, you can block the IAC with clay, or the top suction port or at the base and find that the engine still races fast... huge leaks,"
But I don't understand very well how to do it, I need to open IAC valve as in your photo and to put the clay covering all the gap ? But I suppose before start the engine.. And "the harder way to make a botton gasket blocking the bleed/IAC PORT, as I read in your slide photo is the hole in the rigth side of the ring.. Please, explain me how to do it is difficult to me this system, I never did it..
Yes, I know some folks doing like you saiy, but that TBI came fron Suzuki Santana that is in Linares a town from Jaen province in Spain, and I had in my hand the box where this TBI came from Factory sealed whit Suzuki Company as new one..
I'll be waiting your information about, you can see the photos TV in full contact and pressing ISC hose..