its not CELL its CEL, check engine light.
![[Image: cel.gif]](http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/cel.gif)
weak engine, it's not the transmission! as poster stated...
it's a 1995, 3L30 3sp transmission, 4wd? 2 doors? 16valve engine? < (please correct this here with what you have)
step B is, is the CEL light on , key on, not starter? step A was STALL test. failed.
setp C , does it go out running and stay out, (CEL = check engine light) it must.
if step C fails, or B, we need to next do the Diagnostic jumper for the ECU, to see if it flashes code 12, paper clip test
this simple test is covered here.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html#OBD1codes
the stall test fails,because the engine power is grossly weak.(over 50 things) (weak combustion is complex)
since i cant drive car , i can hear at and fell it misfire, or cleanly bog. (the engine gives many clues, not just low speed)
so what causes low engine power?, a short list.
1: never turned up, and it misfires. (spark parts, filters.....) misfiring engines all have low power.. can you feel it misfire? (bad spark.)
2: EGR stuck open. (main ) behind #4 intake runner,(manifold) causes low RPM idle even in Park.
3: low fuel pressure, or filter clogged.
4: bad fuel and its victim , clogged injectors 1 to 4. if engine misfires it can be a dead injector too.
5: cam timing way off, if you measure spark timing now, and its way off, then the cam DID SLIP. (the timing belt is 60,000 mile tuneup part)
6: MAF dead ,weak or just dirty.
7: gross induction air leaks,(from the back side of the air cleaner to the head intake valves, no leaks.
8: the 02 sensor is not bad but to prove it , unplug it.. see, engine still weak.
9: any or all flash codes stated in B above.
and more.. (bad engine, weak compression below 150psi)
the fuel line can run up to 60PSI , unlike any carb car, made. (60psi is the shunt spec) normal is about 30. due to PFR , fuel pressure regulator on fuel rail.
that too can fail, and pressure falls. all do about this time. 1995. mostly it causes misfire, as it leaks, raw fuel to that vacuum hose there.
the only thing that can stop that flow are.
filter clogged
or injector screens clogged (10micron in size too)
regulator (FPR) stuck at low pressures..
that is just looking at the fuel side, what about the compute side, the ECU lowers injection for many reasons
top reason, low MAF output, if air flow is too low, it will not ADD (compute) more fuel, and the net results are low power.
why not say if the full tune up was done at last 60k mark.
filters. , cap,rotor , spark wires, and spark plugs?
and the timing belt too.
at least spark plugs, (not surface gap bs) at .028" gap.
and belt
and that fuel filter...... (it will not run for 300k miles.. not ever)
did car sit for a long time, what is miles on odometer, when was the last full tuneup using the 60k or 120k or 180k chart.????
how to find this, varies by 1 factor, tools in the shop.
cant fix cars , with any tools.
meters. gauges, im not talking wrenches as that is obvious.
the first step , is my timing light, cost $20, i check timing, if way off the cam belt slipped. all in 5min work. no more guessing. if this 1 fast test fails.
also check the crank pulley bolt for loose... 94ft/lbs, right hand thread.(Clockswise is tighter)
for me i check the MAF next, after cleaning it and driving car first.
i use a $10 volt meter to test the maf.
other guys , use the rail adapter and check the fuel pressure first. oops, low. filter clogged.
the fuel gauge is $20 sold in autostores or HF.
that fuel filter i bet ,was never changed. ever.
am i right?
service history too, makes cars easier to fix.
weak engine, it's not the transmission! as poster stated...
it's a 1995, 3L30 3sp transmission, 4wd? 2 doors? 16valve engine? < (please correct this here with what you have)
step B is, is the CEL light on , key on, not starter? step A was STALL test. failed.
setp C , does it go out running and stay out, (CEL = check engine light) it must.
if step C fails, or B, we need to next do the Diagnostic jumper for the ECU, to see if it flashes code 12, paper clip test
this simple test is covered here.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html#OBD1codes
the stall test fails,because the engine power is grossly weak.(over 50 things) (weak combustion is complex)
since i cant drive car , i can hear at and fell it misfire, or cleanly bog. (the engine gives many clues, not just low speed)
so what causes low engine power?, a short list.
1: never turned up, and it misfires. (spark parts, filters.....) misfiring engines all have low power.. can you feel it misfire? (bad spark.)
2: EGR stuck open. (main ) behind #4 intake runner,(manifold) causes low RPM idle even in Park.
3: low fuel pressure, or filter clogged.
4: bad fuel and its victim , clogged injectors 1 to 4. if engine misfires it can be a dead injector too.
5: cam timing way off, if you measure spark timing now, and its way off, then the cam DID SLIP. (the timing belt is 60,000 mile tuneup part)
6: MAF dead ,weak or just dirty.
7: gross induction air leaks,(from the back side of the air cleaner to the head intake valves, no leaks.
8: the 02 sensor is not bad but to prove it , unplug it.. see, engine still weak.
9: any or all flash codes stated in B above.
and more.. (bad engine, weak compression below 150psi)
the fuel line can run up to 60PSI , unlike any carb car, made. (60psi is the shunt spec) normal is about 30. due to PFR , fuel pressure regulator on fuel rail.
that too can fail, and pressure falls. all do about this time. 1995. mostly it causes misfire, as it leaks, raw fuel to that vacuum hose there.
the only thing that can stop that flow are.
filter clogged
or injector screens clogged (10micron in size too)
regulator (FPR) stuck at low pressures..
that is just looking at the fuel side, what about the compute side, the ECU lowers injection for many reasons
top reason, low MAF output, if air flow is too low, it will not ADD (compute) more fuel, and the net results are low power.
why not say if the full tune up was done at last 60k mark.
filters. , cap,rotor , spark wires, and spark plugs?
and the timing belt too.
at least spark plugs, (not surface gap bs) at .028" gap.
and belt
and that fuel filter...... (it will not run for 300k miles.. not ever)
did car sit for a long time, what is miles on odometer, when was the last full tuneup using the 60k or 120k or 180k chart.????
how to find this, varies by 1 factor, tools in the shop.
cant fix cars , with any tools.
meters. gauges, im not talking wrenches as that is obvious.
the first step , is my timing light, cost $20, i check timing, if way off the cam belt slipped. all in 5min work. no more guessing. if this 1 fast test fails.
also check the crank pulley bolt for loose... 94ft/lbs, right hand thread.(Clockswise is tighter)
for me i check the MAF next, after cleaning it and driving car first.
i use a $10 volt meter to test the maf.
other guys , use the rail adapter and check the fuel pressure first. oops, low. filter clogged.
the fuel gauge is $20 sold in autostores or HF.
that fuel filter i bet ,was never changed. ever.
am i right?
service history too, makes cars easier to fix.
http://www.fixkick.com