the full harness drawing, physical are only in a real FSM.
but the alternator is just 2 wires, not counting the ground or the big wire, to the fuse box.
the drawing is clear on that. those 2 wires.
2 colors
have you seen my schematics page.
and the 3rd link there is full pdf (horsed up nice)
here.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/89/1990-scan-...lpages.pdf
page12
you do know that some alts will be dead, if the charge lamp is dead, is it? turn key lamp out. bingo, that can not be.... (fix first )
the other wire is ignition sense wire, fuse 8 (ig-coil, hot key on)
the charge lamp uses the same cluster power as all other lamps there, warning
so if they work so must the charge lamp if not burn out. (does it work keyon only?)
key on the warning lights glow, do they? and the charge?
page 11 show cluster wire. and lamp. ops.
fuse 8 is IG-coil
you turn the key and many things run off of fuse 8
and one is the alternator blk-white wire, if its 12v key on, at the alt then all is good, if not , run a new wire from there to fuse 8. problem solve
same with the white-red wire, it must go to a workingcharge light, if not, the alternator boot strap can fail.
the lamp provides startup current for the rotor coil. a missing or burned up lamp can cause the alternator to work only 1/2 the time.(toss coin)
the good times are the core magnetize of the alternator, key off, residual mag, it's called, something not guaranteed.
(depends on who made the alt, how that works out) but fix lamp first, and win , in all cases.....
the big cable must be good to the fender box. no corrosion here.
end to end did you look under the main box? are the lugs there green?
like this
http://www.fixkick.com/fuse-box1-failure2.jpg
last is alternator ground must be good
and if battery is bad, all alternators shut down. (prevents overvoltage and destroying expensive electronics in car)
is fan belt tight.>?
and engine hot rpm a 800, not 400?
but the alternator is just 2 wires, not counting the ground or the big wire, to the fuse box.
the drawing is clear on that. those 2 wires.
2 colors
have you seen my schematics page.
and the 3rd link there is full pdf (horsed up nice)
here.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/89/1990-scan-...lpages.pdf
page12
you do know that some alts will be dead, if the charge lamp is dead, is it? turn key lamp out. bingo, that can not be.... (fix first )
the other wire is ignition sense wire, fuse 8 (ig-coil, hot key on)
the charge lamp uses the same cluster power as all other lamps there, warning
so if they work so must the charge lamp if not burn out. (does it work keyon only?)
key on the warning lights glow, do they? and the charge?
page 11 show cluster wire. and lamp. ops.
fuse 8 is IG-coil
you turn the key and many things run off of fuse 8
and one is the alternator blk-white wire, if its 12v key on, at the alt then all is good, if not , run a new wire from there to fuse 8. problem solve
same with the white-red wire, it must go to a workingcharge light, if not, the alternator boot strap can fail.
the lamp provides startup current for the rotor coil. a missing or burned up lamp can cause the alternator to work only 1/2 the time.(toss coin)
the good times are the core magnetize of the alternator, key off, residual mag, it's called, something not guaranteed.
(depends on who made the alt, how that works out) but fix lamp first, and win , in all cases.....
the big cable must be good to the fender box. no corrosion here.
end to end did you look under the main box? are the lugs there green?
like this
http://www.fixkick.com/fuse-box1-failure2.jpg
last is alternator ground must be good
and if battery is bad, all alternators shut down. (prevents overvoltage and destroying expensive electronics in car)
is fan belt tight.>?
and engine hot rpm a 800, not 400?
http://www.fixkick.com