08-18-2015, 02:54 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-18-2015, 02:56 AM by robbybobby.)
Ok, so I am having a bit of trouble getting my tracker to start after doing several repairs. I am at a loss as to what's going on with it. Tracker:
1992 geo tracker 8v, 5 speed, 4x4 with a/c and power steering
After I got the tracker I had to replace many parts to get it going. Fuel pump, oil pan gasket, repair some things, etc. After doing those things, the tracker ran fine for several months. I noticed it was leaking oil down the back so I replaced the valve cover gasket and pulled the distributor to seal it up. Ran for a month or so.
Shortly after that I noticed a substantial oil leak from the front. Thought it was the oil pan, but after changing it out once with the oil leak still there I found out it was actually the front crank seal. So I parked it and didn't get around to working on it for a few months.
So just recently, I removed everything necessary to change the front crank seal along with the front housing seal as well. Replaced the oil pan gasket again. Torqued crank bolt to 94 ft/lbs. Set timing belt back per specs and it cranked right back up but was running poorly, and had to mash gas pedal to the floor to start. I drove it around thinking maybe it was because I hadn't driven it for a while (maybe 10 miles total), but I knew something wasn't right. Found out engine was flooding. Cleaned the EGR valve, got a new FPR (which stopped the flooding issue) but after the new FPR, the engine would only idle at 800 rpms and was still sluggish. Thought timing might have gotten off so I put a timing light on it. It was like 20-30 ATDC... Not sure how it was even running... So I took apart and re-timed... Couldn't get it to start afterward... Thought I'd do a compression test even though the engine wasn't warm since it wouldn't start... Cylinder 1 - 60, 2 - 120, 3 - 120, 4 - 120. Obviously they are all low... Compression test done with all spark plugs out, F1 fuse removed, fully charged battery, and gas pedal to the floor. Added oil to #1 to see if it changed and it did not.
Things I have done/tested/inspected:
new spark plugs gapped to 0.028"
Good spark to plugs
Fuel pump comes on for 3 seconds with turn of key
Timing belt replaced
crank cog and key in perfect shape (not damaged at all)
timed engine to #4 TDC, rotor pointing to #4 plug wire
cam gear aligned with nipple and slot at ~12 o'clock
crank gear aligned at ~12 o'clock
reset valve lash to 0.006" (some were slightly off but nothing major)
Obviously compression is not good... engine still won't start after all these checks and replacements...
At a loss here and need some help please. Bad compression tester? Getting fuel and spark. Compression is way low but engine was running fine a few months ago so I can't think that it all of a sudden went "bad"....
Thanks for any help,
Robby
1992 geo tracker 8v, 5 speed, 4x4 with a/c and power steering
After I got the tracker I had to replace many parts to get it going. Fuel pump, oil pan gasket, repair some things, etc. After doing those things, the tracker ran fine for several months. I noticed it was leaking oil down the back so I replaced the valve cover gasket and pulled the distributor to seal it up. Ran for a month or so.
Shortly after that I noticed a substantial oil leak from the front. Thought it was the oil pan, but after changing it out once with the oil leak still there I found out it was actually the front crank seal. So I parked it and didn't get around to working on it for a few months.
So just recently, I removed everything necessary to change the front crank seal along with the front housing seal as well. Replaced the oil pan gasket again. Torqued crank bolt to 94 ft/lbs. Set timing belt back per specs and it cranked right back up but was running poorly, and had to mash gas pedal to the floor to start. I drove it around thinking maybe it was because I hadn't driven it for a while (maybe 10 miles total), but I knew something wasn't right. Found out engine was flooding. Cleaned the EGR valve, got a new FPR (which stopped the flooding issue) but after the new FPR, the engine would only idle at 800 rpms and was still sluggish. Thought timing might have gotten off so I put a timing light on it. It was like 20-30 ATDC... Not sure how it was even running... So I took apart and re-timed... Couldn't get it to start afterward... Thought I'd do a compression test even though the engine wasn't warm since it wouldn't start... Cylinder 1 - 60, 2 - 120, 3 - 120, 4 - 120. Obviously they are all low... Compression test done with all spark plugs out, F1 fuse removed, fully charged battery, and gas pedal to the floor. Added oil to #1 to see if it changed and it did not.
Things I have done/tested/inspected:
new spark plugs gapped to 0.028"
Good spark to plugs
Fuel pump comes on for 3 seconds with turn of key
Timing belt replaced
crank cog and key in perfect shape (not damaged at all)
timed engine to #4 TDC, rotor pointing to #4 plug wire
cam gear aligned with nipple and slot at ~12 o'clock
crank gear aligned at ~12 o'clock
reset valve lash to 0.006" (some were slightly off but nothing major)
Obviously compression is not good... engine still won't start after all these checks and replacements...
At a loss here and need some help please. Bad compression tester? Getting fuel and spark. Compression is way low but engine was running fine a few months ago so I can't think that it all of a sudden went "bad"....
Thanks for any help,
Robby