the AMP controls these relays.
the AMP is really just a A/C protection and engine protection logic box. (rules)
1992. clutch drops out, ok, that is normal but not if full time, the clutch drops even when the evap core is too cold... by design.
the red wire is hot all the time.s (if not fuse blown)
blow at the same time ( deEnergize both at same time?)
both relays are dropped any time the hi/low switch sees and error in pressures. (high or low both)
if the hi/low is happy, then only the AMP can drop them both.
the Hi/low is hot all the time from blower power. fuse.
so the hi/low must be 12vdc at all times. all the time. both sides or you have a loop issue, (pressures wrong)
in all cases. we find out :?
1: is the amp dropping the clutch.
2: or is the hi/low loop switch dropping.
just 1 reading tells me that.
the yellow wire. if that drops its a loop problem
if either wire pink (relay) or blue-red fail to hold 0v. then the amp is dropping out the relays, 1 or both.
if the amp is doing this dirty work. then we check its inputs, its just a logic box(CPU?) and will drop for many reasons, all by design.
drops for.
1: engine over load.
2: engine overheat or the switch lies. or wires to it cut.
3: evap core iced up.
4: blower dead.
5: thinks your are cranking all the time, would take 2 fails here, cut wire and shorted to 12v... hardly likely
each can be checked with a meter, if need be. forget that until you prove 2 wires above colors, are going to 12vdc. (failed)
the engine tells the A/C to drop out on engine overload, or passing (wide open throttle mostly)
im sure that is not happening.
the AMP is really just a A/C protection and engine protection logic box. (rules)
1992. clutch drops out, ok, that is normal but not if full time, the clutch drops even when the evap core is too cold... by design.
the red wire is hot all the time.s (if not fuse blown)
blow at the same time ( deEnergize both at same time?)
both relays are dropped any time the hi/low switch sees and error in pressures. (high or low both)
if the hi/low is happy, then only the AMP can drop them both.
the Hi/low is hot all the time from blower power. fuse.
so the hi/low must be 12vdc at all times. all the time. both sides or you have a loop issue, (pressures wrong)
in all cases. we find out :?
1: is the amp dropping the clutch.
2: or is the hi/low loop switch dropping.
just 1 reading tells me that.
the yellow wire. if that drops its a loop problem
if either wire pink (relay) or blue-red fail to hold 0v. then the amp is dropping out the relays, 1 or both.
if the amp is doing this dirty work. then we check its inputs, its just a logic box(CPU?) and will drop for many reasons, all by design.
drops for.
1: engine over load.
2: engine overheat or the switch lies. or wires to it cut.
3: evap core iced up.
4: blower dead.
5: thinks your are cranking all the time, would take 2 fails here, cut wire and shorted to 12v... hardly likely
each can be checked with a meter, if need be. forget that until you prove 2 wires above colors, are going to 12vdc. (failed)
the engine tells the A/C to drop out on engine overload, or passing (wide open throttle mostly)
im sure that is not happening.
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