ok, lets back up.
what does reverse do, Reverse is the canary gear, its a non synchro , square cut gear. and will grind at the drop of a hat if the clutch fails.
please state what " no able to shift" means.
grinds, or what.
can you shift in to all gears, engine not running?
you also missed, my tests. that must be done to prove what part is failing.
1: the one inch rule on the clutch bell lever, does it move 1inch past the zero play point? if not the cable is bad, or maladjusted.
if the clutch lever moves as it should then the problem is tranny / clutch.
to test that is pretty simple, pull the top of the shifter houseing and do this.
shift by wrench.
if this fails. the clutch is bad, if it shifts, ok , not running engine, then binds up,(near impossible to engage , unless you force it , by hand and it grinds, bad clutch.
if how ever it shifts perfect by wrench , then the shifter extension housing is bad.
i know this seems hard, but is less that 10 hrs labor R&R tranny
![[Image: cheating1.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/shifting/cheating1.jpg)
i'd not take the shift guide plugs out. not me, why? why risk dropping balls and tiny parts.?
because id test them , using the wrench above.
what are the tests,? , simple, the shift guides have a locking rule set.
1: all gears can be shifted 1 by one. at a time, 1,2,3,4,5,R , N
2: no 2 gears can be shifted at same time (lockout) (2 gears at same time driving, is a man killer)
easy , huh, if it passes that test. then the real lock pins are AOK. engine off.
one step at a time.
motor running or not/?
that is the 1st step.
if it can not be done motor off, the shifter is bad. (from hand knob to box forks) end to end. my photo above solves that riddle fast.
if it can not be shifted parked, engine off, (put transfer case in Neutral to release any prop shaft tension).
now it must shift in to 1 or 2, MUST.
if not tranny is sick.
can you shift in to 1st with the xfr case in neutral (no load) and engine running? Ebrake set hard, in all cases above.
no problems in reverse, then the clutch is ok.
what does reverse do, Reverse is the canary gear, its a non synchro , square cut gear. and will grind at the drop of a hat if the clutch fails.
please state what " no able to shift" means.
grinds, or what.
can you shift in to all gears, engine not running?
you also missed, my tests. that must be done to prove what part is failing.
1: the one inch rule on the clutch bell lever, does it move 1inch past the zero play point? if not the cable is bad, or maladjusted.
if the clutch lever moves as it should then the problem is tranny / clutch.
to test that is pretty simple, pull the top of the shifter houseing and do this.
shift by wrench.
if this fails. the clutch is bad, if it shifts, ok , not running engine, then binds up,(near impossible to engage , unless you force it , by hand and it grinds, bad clutch.
if how ever it shifts perfect by wrench , then the shifter extension housing is bad.
i know this seems hard, but is less that 10 hrs labor R&R tranny
i'd not take the shift guide plugs out. not me, why? why risk dropping balls and tiny parts.?
because id test them , using the wrench above.
what are the tests,? , simple, the shift guides have a locking rule set.
1: all gears can be shifted 1 by one. at a time, 1,2,3,4,5,R , N
2: no 2 gears can be shifted at same time (lockout) (2 gears at same time driving, is a man killer)
easy , huh, if it passes that test. then the real lock pins are AOK. engine off.
one step at a time.
Quote:Still not able to shift in to 1st or 2nd.
motor running or not/?
that is the 1st step.
if it can not be done motor off, the shifter is bad. (from hand knob to box forks) end to end. my photo above solves that riddle fast.
if it can not be shifted parked, engine off, (put transfer case in Neutral to release any prop shaft tension).
now it must shift in to 1 or 2, MUST.
if not tranny is sick.
can you shift in to 1st with the xfr case in neutral (no load) and engine running? Ebrake set hard, in all cases above.
no problems in reverse, then the clutch is ok.
http://www.fixkick.com