that gap , is check by prying the gears on the main shaft, so that ,that gap is max, then measured with any feeler gauge.
on reAssembly, (no $300 suzuki magic tool, and unobtainium status) then we use a press or (light hammer taps) to get this found gap at end if main assembly.
if stopped the 1st issues is 100% clutch drag... after all the input to 1st syncho is stalled. so.. cant be it. (as is both sides... are stalled and the 1st synchro as no job here)
the clutch drag , makes the 1st syncro, not work. because the input turns and the output is stall, and it will baulk)
the synchro's job it to get the rear syncrho, speed, matched to front, by spinning up the front for a speed match them, if the clutch drags, it cant to do that....
the clutch cables love to jam inside. and cause this.... always buy a new cable if the clutch ever drags... first. $25 and 1hr work.
they go bad inside, where no human can see....
that gap:
the magic tool, forms pocket, so when the bearings are pressed on, at that step the magic tool bottoms out and the gap is at spec. "yes magic of factor tools" LoL
we cant do that. we measure it first and then get it right, at assembly.
what I do , is use pipe that fits to boss center, on the bearing at hand... never press the outer rim of a bearing.. only the center....
then tap the bearing on, (or use a press for 90% on) then hand tap it , to the MAGIC gap.
there are no other ways... (or very expensive tools sure..)
the synchro gaps are in the book, see them yet?
this tells you how worn the cones are, brass......
the gears have dogs, the syncrhos job is to keep the dogs, safe, and long life..... they match the speeds and the dogs dont get wrecked. (smashed flat)
your box is totally rebuild-able.
just dont forget those 2 hidden locking balls....
the gears and bearings off 1 by 1, never as a set.
and put all parts on a broom handle , all parts are polarized....!!!! even washers, are.... never mix parts up or directions.....
on reAssembly, (no $300 suzuki magic tool, and unobtainium status) then we use a press or (light hammer taps) to get this found gap at end if main assembly.
if stopped the 1st issues is 100% clutch drag... after all the input to 1st syncho is stalled. so.. cant be it. (as is both sides... are stalled and the 1st synchro as no job here)
the clutch drag , makes the 1st syncro, not work. because the input turns and the output is stall, and it will baulk)
the synchro's job it to get the rear syncrho, speed, matched to front, by spinning up the front for a speed match them, if the clutch drags, it cant to do that....
the clutch cables love to jam inside. and cause this.... always buy a new cable if the clutch ever drags... first. $25 and 1hr work.
they go bad inside, where no human can see....
that gap:
the magic tool, forms pocket, so when the bearings are pressed on, at that step the magic tool bottoms out and the gap is at spec. "yes magic of factor tools" LoL
we cant do that. we measure it first and then get it right, at assembly.
what I do , is use pipe that fits to boss center, on the bearing at hand... never press the outer rim of a bearing.. only the center....
then tap the bearing on, (or use a press for 90% on) then hand tap it , to the MAGIC gap.
there are no other ways... (or very expensive tools sure..)
the synchro gaps are in the book, see them yet?
this tells you how worn the cones are, brass......
the gears have dogs, the syncrhos job is to keep the dogs, safe, and long life..... they match the speeds and the dogs dont get wrecked. (smashed flat)
your box is totally rebuild-able.
just dont forget those 2 hidden locking balls....
the gears and bearings off 1 by 1, never as a set.
and put all parts on a broom handle , all parts are polarized....!!!! even washers, are.... never mix parts up or directions.....
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