these bulbs are the most common made.
first makes sure all bulbs are correct and not LED ungrades. real bulbs.
left front
and left rear
them make sure no trailer hitch wiring hacks, seen anywhere rear, but for sure behind the left rear tail light, there is a trailer connector there... lense pulled gander in to pit of body.
The blanking wrong is due to wrong current flow on the left side.
The emergency flashers, turn them on, do all 4 work the same. same speed sure, but same flash brightness. (look carefully for a weak lamp)
in the worst case all left side wiring for the flash and all connectors need to be checked, (for bad connections). it runs down left side of car this harness.
btw 13.3v to 15v is normal alt outputs , 13.3v is perfect float voltage...
when the alternator dies, it goes to 12.6v and drops till dead.
Is the charge lamp on, key on? it must be, then goes out running? and engine rpm never drops below 800 hot engine coolant?
the regulator senses voltage at the dash, ignition switch if the voltage there is weak, then the alt will go to 14.7v like a shot.(normal for this fail mode)
so if , say you have corrosion under the right front fender fuse box.. bingo.
http://www.fixkick.com/fuse-box1-failure2.jpg
low dash voltage results and the alt. cranks on the juice. (to correct this failure, (huge voltage drop in the wiring,)
even corroded battery terminals.?
this is all normal for bad wiring... Id hate to see you get a new alt for nothing.
![[Image: charge89.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/Charging/charge89.jpg)
this is 10 years older but is same operational.
the sense line works just like this... and must be perfect connections end to end there.
top fails are green on the 2 fuses pins
or the big wire on case of alternator, is bad, corroded,
or alternator is not grounded, right,
or starter cable ground loose or wrong, that is , not mounted to the starter mount bolt. (seen one car with that major ground moved, and it would never work right)
first makes sure all bulbs are correct and not LED ungrades. real bulbs.
left front
and left rear
them make sure no trailer hitch wiring hacks, seen anywhere rear, but for sure behind the left rear tail light, there is a trailer connector there... lense pulled gander in to pit of body.
The blanking wrong is due to wrong current flow on the left side.
The emergency flashers, turn them on, do all 4 work the same. same speed sure, but same flash brightness. (look carefully for a weak lamp)
in the worst case all left side wiring for the flash and all connectors need to be checked, (for bad connections). it runs down left side of car this harness.
btw 13.3v to 15v is normal alt outputs , 13.3v is perfect float voltage...
when the alternator dies, it goes to 12.6v and drops till dead.
Is the charge lamp on, key on? it must be, then goes out running? and engine rpm never drops below 800 hot engine coolant?
the regulator senses voltage at the dash, ignition switch if the voltage there is weak, then the alt will go to 14.7v like a shot.(normal for this fail mode)
so if , say you have corrosion under the right front fender fuse box.. bingo.
http://www.fixkick.com/fuse-box1-failure2.jpg
low dash voltage results and the alt. cranks on the juice. (to correct this failure, (huge voltage drop in the wiring,)
even corroded battery terminals.?
this is all normal for bad wiring... Id hate to see you get a new alt for nothing.
this is 10 years older but is same operational.
the sense line works just like this... and must be perfect connections end to end there.
top fails are green on the 2 fuses pins
or the big wire on case of alternator, is bad, corroded,
or alternator is not grounded, right,
or starter cable ground loose or wrong, that is , not mounted to the starter mount bolt. (seen one car with that major ground moved, and it would never work right)
http://www.fixkick.com