it is special and operates 180 degree flows from G16.
sure mpg gets better with a cold engine all the time, its in ECU warm up mode, sucking fuel like crazy, 180F temps are first, in EFI. always first.
and not take a day getting to 180g and not surging.
no lie the cooling is counterproductive . and fits many suzuki cars,not just RWD.
if the pipe 22 is packed the wax pellet never gets hot waterflow.
so the wax never gets hot, and never opens. so the valve is closed, there is no radiator flow now.
then lets say by pure luck or conductive heat from block to pump the wax warms a bit and expands, then the stat opens a bit, OOPS the water out of the RAD is cold now. (say your moving fast too, and its real cold out, (makes this more clear using worst cases )
and rad water lands on same wax pellet and the thermostat slams shut (BAM), and repeats over and over.
no G16 works like this. the G16 has water flowing in the intake gallery all the time, the J18 has no such place.
this is pure, J18/j20 and j24 action here.
i'd buy a real thermostat , by name and correct number. id not use something from autozoned, ever. no Dura-stuff.
if that didnt fix it. i'd.
and then back flush 22 . all paths there, even the iAC thermal air valve (idle) needs to work right.
i do hope is not clogs,
as an aside to that, the tube 22 keeps the thermostat at the head water temperature at all times, even when, the RAD is ice brick cold.
then as the STAT lets in some of that cold water,it mixes with the hot , and the stat closes just a tiny bit, to hold 180f.
if the 22 pipe is clogged all hope is gone. its 100% used at all times.
the thermostat is tuned to the character of the flow in pipe 22, and is different than the G16.
sure mpg gets better with a cold engine all the time, its in ECU warm up mode, sucking fuel like crazy, 180F temps are first, in EFI. always first.
and not take a day getting to 180g and not surging.
no lie the cooling is counterproductive . and fits many suzuki cars,not just RWD.
if the pipe 22 is packed the wax pellet never gets hot waterflow.
so the wax never gets hot, and never opens. so the valve is closed, there is no radiator flow now.
then lets say by pure luck or conductive heat from block to pump the wax warms a bit and expands, then the stat opens a bit, OOPS the water out of the RAD is cold now. (say your moving fast too, and its real cold out, (makes this more clear using worst cases )
and rad water lands on same wax pellet and the thermostat slams shut (BAM), and repeats over and over.
no G16 works like this. the G16 has water flowing in the intake gallery all the time, the J18 has no such place.
this is pure, J18/j20 and j24 action here.
i'd buy a real thermostat , by name and correct number. id not use something from autozoned, ever. no Dura-stuff.
if that didnt fix it. i'd.
and then back flush 22 . all paths there, even the iAC thermal air valve (idle) needs to work right.
i do hope is not clogs,
as an aside to that, the tube 22 keeps the thermostat at the head water temperature at all times, even when, the RAD is ice brick cold.
then as the STAT lets in some of that cold water,it mixes with the hot , and the stat closes just a tiny bit, to hold 180f.
if the 22 pipe is clogged all hope is gone. its 100% used at all times.
the thermostat is tuned to the character of the flow in pipe 22, and is different than the G16.
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