rad full, cap off. when the thermostat gets near open nearing 150F, the hot fluid expands in volume, this is normal and the side tank catches all that (if not overfilled before)
i can see all this is minute, eye on,
cold engine
rad full of 50% AF
the caps on, now,
the side tank is on low mark with fluid in there.
the hose from rad neck to tank is good, dont leak,
the hose that point goes in side that tank to the bottom of tank , if not each cool down will suck air to the RAD. and rad will drop level ,
the coolant must not drop in the rad day by day, if side tank works it must NOT drop day by day, or you have serious issues.
yes in a month or so levels can drop a tiny bit. but the side tank covers that. lose at all times if its level mark is always never below the plastic tank marked MINIMUM.
what i dont understand in your post is the leaks thing, exactly what does leak? i think just the side tanks explodes, but i cant see it and seeing makes the case. if set up right before the test, min level, and rad full, that is steam explosion or radical exhaust gases. there.
got oil the the AF , got carbon floating on top of cap off neck , there, cold?? if yes, bingo
if the rad was full (burped.)
tank at min.
the side tank must not ever go over max. if it does, there are serious problems. (exhaust reaching rad via 2 ways, block or head jacket breaches,cracks etc)
or the pump is dead. (steel fins inside impeller, are GONE)
that is why asked if car cools ok moving fast, that proves rad works and pump works.
my guess is you can leave drive way. do to rapid, over flow of side tank.
keep in mind a dead pump causes rapid steam explosions in the water jackets fast, and will do just like you said,same with cracks in block /head or head gasket blown.
the leak down tool passing tells you the blocks ok but pump is dead. see?
each test eliminate other possibles.
one guy i know, flushed the system clean, then took off themostat housing,
and stat
then with that block and housing full of cold clean water, no AF
he started engine, (helper)
and look at the water there in the housing base.,
the water will shoot out, pump flow ,seen, so pumps not dead.
or put it all back together, with NO STAT. and only water,
then with rad cap off, start engine, now pump is on line and pumping full circle. and you look at the cap off neck FOR? EXHAUST Bubbles, now.
see those. you have A big breach to exh or compression side.
those are the only tricks besides , doing the real tests. leak down and mister GREEN/blue, that both find this breach. deal.
i can see all this is minute, eye on,
cold engine
rad full of 50% AF
the caps on, now,
the side tank is on low mark with fluid in there.
the hose from rad neck to tank is good, dont leak,
the hose that point goes in side that tank to the bottom of tank , if not each cool down will suck air to the RAD. and rad will drop level ,
the coolant must not drop in the rad day by day, if side tank works it must NOT drop day by day, or you have serious issues.
yes in a month or so levels can drop a tiny bit. but the side tank covers that. lose at all times if its level mark is always never below the plastic tank marked MINIMUM.
what i dont understand in your post is the leaks thing, exactly what does leak? i think just the side tanks explodes, but i cant see it and seeing makes the case. if set up right before the test, min level, and rad full, that is steam explosion or radical exhaust gases. there.
got oil the the AF , got carbon floating on top of cap off neck , there, cold?? if yes, bingo
if the rad was full (burped.)
tank at min.
the side tank must not ever go over max. if it does, there are serious problems. (exhaust reaching rad via 2 ways, block or head jacket breaches,cracks etc)
or the pump is dead. (steel fins inside impeller, are GONE)
that is why asked if car cools ok moving fast, that proves rad works and pump works.
my guess is you can leave drive way. do to rapid, over flow of side tank.
keep in mind a dead pump causes rapid steam explosions in the water jackets fast, and will do just like you said,same with cracks in block /head or head gasket blown.
the leak down tool passing tells you the blocks ok but pump is dead. see?
each test eliminate other possibles.
one guy i know, flushed the system clean, then took off themostat housing,
and stat
then with that block and housing full of cold clean water, no AF
he started engine, (helper)
and look at the water there in the housing base.,
the water will shoot out, pump flow ,seen, so pumps not dead.
or put it all back together, with NO STAT. and only water,
then with rad cap off, start engine, now pump is on line and pumping full circle. and you look at the cap off neck FOR? EXHAUST Bubbles, now.
see those. you have A big breach to exh or compression side.
those are the only tricks besides , doing the real tests. leak down and mister GREEN/blue, that both find this breach. deal.
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