put my 8v motor back in my tracker won't start

[aarontupper]

any oil pressure gauge works
as does going to any air shop, where they sell air pressure gauges, (they are all the same , bourdon tube gauges.)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure_measurement
any auto-stores.
northrern tools
harbor freight has a whole AIR wall.

Ever consider not starting as a blessing?, if you don't have top end oiling, then your no start cause, just saved the engine from destruction.!

i have no idea what noises, are.? there, nor its location,.
normal sounds sure, but ab-normal on any machine is a wake up can, it crying fix me..

it's your engine, if it has good compression, does it? it's ready to run, if top end oiling is not DEAD.
so lets pretend it does.all that,

compression over 150PSI wide open throttle. x4 ? if wrong, and read real low the cam is timed wrong, crank key stripped.? is it set to 94ft/lbs, that 17mm bolt?

we check for spark at all 4 spark plugs. not just one, all 4. (blue-white spark)
and timed to near 0 TDC or +5deg, BTDC or as hood sticker states.

next is to use test fuel, add test fuel and run it for 3seconds minimum, and SOUNDS good? (spray and crank)
is CEL lamp glowing key on?, if not, fix that first.

does CEL flash 12 key on, + jumper paper clip diagnostic mode? active? step 6?
http://www.fixkick.com/nostart.html
iF if flashes 12s (all this in on my no start page) then we crank, engine, while flashing 12s, got code 41, or 42?
those codes kill spark.

in the new engine world? top end oiling is first. then cranking, then spark , then test fuel. and last fueling.

we can start it easy, but should we, only you know that now. not me. I never risk any new engine to look,.
my last one cost me $1000 to build. id never risk that cash, blind starting any engine.

1:oil pressure good, top end oils ok.
2: CEL glows key on, no ,fix that next..
3: Diagmode flashes 12, and stays 12 after 5 seconds, cranked.?
4: spark good at all 4 cylinders?
5: spark timed near 0 TDC mark, cranked. (timing light)
6: test fuel work.?

its just 6 steps. to get to test fuel. if test fuel passes, we can then work , fueling, !
7: the 8v injector can be watched injecting fuel, with naked eyes, is it? cranked? and not dribbling after the crank session?
8: is TPS TP pin at near 0v (good) or 4v or 5v? (bad) if above 4v. the TPS ground is cut. and there will never be fueling like that, cranked.

is the dash pot, on TB holding throttle open a tad, key off? the on? (this is cold start air, need to prevent flooding)
is the EGR main valve closed, and not stuck wide open?
9: is fuel pressure at 34PSI minimum key on 3 times?

just for you, a short list
there is more but depends on how far you can get. lots more.

So I just went out and bought all new cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. There duralast with NGK plugs. Can you give me a pointer on the right way to put the rotor and cap on the right way? Like i hear the rotor can go on 3 different ways and only one way is right. Any help?