Introduction and a question on poor starting.

[fixkick]

The idle switch appears to be closed, as the ISC does bump up the idle to 1000 when the A/C is switched on. The ISC is ok, then,

Any idea why there is coolant going to a purely electronic valve?? sure, it was added in 1991 to the 8v to heat the whole,TB, and they deleted the base heater, PTC , as a result, and on 16v it heats up the plenum , i presume this helps. but is near same part as 8v. so....
the 16v ISC only has a tube twisted, funny.

Hot starts are not typically a problem (with full 180* coolant temp), but really the warm starts with coolant temp from 100-150*. Here are some videos I made to show:

Cold Start:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49lxLQAknaM

Warmer Start:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9Jn0pB_mYI

Warmest Start: very slow start !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKZsidZpqGY

I never got a truly hot start video made...short trips that day. Next time I have it out on the open road I'll make one.

I'll pull the ISC off and give it a really good cleaning and report back.

I suspect that extra air is needed (over normal) because there is excess fuel there, to start; Is the FPreg leaking fuel? (at vacuum nipple?)
why not try test fuel?
or make a small vacuum leak, forcing lean.
if engine is good, and spark good it's fueling (egr not leaking)
so add fuel or add air, as a test see if that 3seconds drop stop 1.

one or the other helps prove the case.

does ECT read right? 300ohms hot? cold start fuel is calculated off this too, and most match conditions,