usa answers, totally: so? (no problems here on asking a list of questions, Ill try my best)
OK the 8v.
Engine comments:
so, if compression is above 150 psi most are 170 (spec), warm or hot the engine is good. this be first on all old cars, #1 is Compression, if that is good it needs to be tuned up. (only)
mine did 155 dead cold. x4. and more hot, as the ALL do. (post all of yours, all 4, and done wide open throttle only)
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html
how many doors? 2 or 4, (harness big time diffs. and issues)
sorry ,the 2wd box is different, see here.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/5speed-rebuild.html#2wd
you cant just throw any parts in there, you need " 4wd parts.
Noise test1:
remove the clutch cable from end of bell housing, noise stops now, that is a bad Throw out bearing
some 96+ parts don't fit your car, so older than 96 is best.
quote my swap page. ( any 5sp 89-98 should work) but not the transfer case.
most transfer cases are like new, found in the wild, most are unused. so most are good, found. If it runs quiet in 4wd, no noises its ok,)
finding a used 5 speed, is not easy (impossible down south here)
the 2wd /5speed has a totally incompatible.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/5speed-rebuild.html#2wd
kits, vary in price.
some have all bearings others not, some have all syncrh'os others not.
some have all top brand bearings, others not.
the price has nothing at all to do with quality nor parts counts. none. (profit , counts most , not other things, some sell junk for more that quality)
one has nice Koyo bearing (japan) others have these, pos bearings from china with names that can not be pronounced nor tracked to any viable source....nor any quality controls at all. zero!
i'd get the cable dropped, (clutch, id bet 100% the cable is bad, sure would)
and then start engine
then get under there with that 4 buck harbor freight stethoscope (Doctors type) and listen to the box, that is what i do , i listen just like the DR.
it will talk to you , small purr ok , buzz bad.
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-s...69913.html
LUBE:
the tranny just didn't make GL4 , evaporate, it's either leaked out , or never put there, in the first place, common at, jiPHPHY-lube-joints. (kids)
GL5 will not do much harm , at the worse,? brass corrosion, not noise, the bearings will last forever in GL5 and that is what your noise is going to be. if at all. but running only 1/3 full , that will kill them ALL.
the same bearings in the axles, run GL5. (rollers or balls) they be happy. as are many other bear boxes.
The GL4 is for Synchromesh boxes. some GL5 is GL4 rated, the back of the bottle tells you that it is , if is. if not, it's not.
In fact new Gear lube bottles, now say on back, "not for Synchromesh boxes" clear as day. see my tune up page for GL4 choices. (napa carries it)
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/tune-u...#Gear_Lube
JUDDER (chatter:?)
first run the box in neutral, no clutch cable and take the bell lever and tie it back to rear of car, (causes a huge gap in the T/O bearing)
i wiggle that lever, and FEEL that play, cable off, if no play? then T/O or clutch fingers are TOASTED and bent or the T/o bearing has ruptured,(now too big ,trying to explode the can.)
if i feel play , it think ok, i have total release now, T/O is stalled now. so all NOISE, now, is in the BOX (and not the fly pilot bearing/or T/O)
this be first, way before, buying 5sp boxes. or viewing OMG 2wd parts.
in neutral, clutch pedal up, and cable off.
the cluster bearings spin x2 . so does the front main pilot shaft bearing. they always spin, if they make noise they are bad. and will get worst.
the clutch, needs to be inspected if the clutch chatters, as you engage it.
it can be lots of reasons, for cause, only eyes on parts prove that, no speculation but list all reasons, sure.
WHY?
PP warped or cracked
disc, warped or cracked.
disc soaked in GL4/5 ,maybe that is why its low, front seal bad? leaking and draining out of bottom of bell , un-notices.
galled pilot shaft, splines causing the Disc to stick and cause upsets.
seizing, front flyweel pilot gearing, (grabby)
only eye balls work , here, "inspections"
there are many more symptoms but this is Judder.
CABLEs from HELL:
the bad cable, never seen a used kick with one good cable yet.
the cable wears a grove inside,(unseen) and the cable sticks, fooling driver the clutch is bad. and is not. #1 reason for bad clutch, is this cable.
a $25 part and 1hr work, less send time. and less if rubber end of cable mount. not nuts.
if it gets worse see my clutch page, show the fire wall cracked and the top of pedal lever stripped,broken or warped.
how many doors,...... this answers most 2wd questions.
see always here
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clu...-kick.html
OK the 8v.
Engine comments:
so, if compression is above 150 psi most are 170 (spec), warm or hot the engine is good. this be first on all old cars, #1 is Compression, if that is good it needs to be tuned up. (only)
mine did 155 dead cold. x4. and more hot, as the ALL do. (post all of yours, all 4, and done wide open throttle only)
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html
how many doors? 2 or 4, (harness big time diffs. and issues)
sorry ,the 2wd box is different, see here.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/5speed-rebuild.html#2wd
you cant just throw any parts in there, you need " 4wd parts.
Noise test1:
remove the clutch cable from end of bell housing, noise stops now, that is a bad Throw out bearing
some 96+ parts don't fit your car, so older than 96 is best.
quote my swap page. ( any 5sp 89-98 should work) but not the transfer case.
Quote:"The 89-98 tranny is mostly the same form factor, it fits but there are exceptions:
The transfer case changed in 96 with new out put spline changed. (and for sure prop shafts)
Input is the same. to XFR case. input spline count is 23 ,BTW.
All t-case (transfer case or xfr case) input splines from 89 to at least 98 are the same size and count.
T-case output shaft splines are the same from 89-95 (26 spline) and from 96 to at least 98 they are 16 spline.
The output shaft size is 30mm (1.81"). on all."
most transfer cases are like new, found in the wild, most are unused. so most are good, found. If it runs quiet in 4wd, no noises its ok,)
finding a used 5 speed, is not easy (impossible down south here)
the 2wd /5speed has a totally incompatible.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/5speed-rebuild.html#2wd
kits, vary in price.
some have all bearings others not, some have all syncrh'os others not.
some have all top brand bearings, others not.
the price has nothing at all to do with quality nor parts counts. none. (profit , counts most , not other things, some sell junk for more that quality)
one has nice Koyo bearing (japan) others have these, pos bearings from china with names that can not be pronounced nor tracked to any viable source....nor any quality controls at all. zero!
i'd get the cable dropped, (clutch, id bet 100% the cable is bad, sure would)
and then start engine
then get under there with that 4 buck harbor freight stethoscope (Doctors type) and listen to the box, that is what i do , i listen just like the DR.
it will talk to you , small purr ok , buzz bad.
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-s...69913.html
LUBE:
the tranny just didn't make GL4 , evaporate, it's either leaked out , or never put there, in the first place, common at, jiPHPHY-lube-joints. (kids)
GL5 will not do much harm , at the worse,? brass corrosion, not noise, the bearings will last forever in GL5 and that is what your noise is going to be. if at all. but running only 1/3 full , that will kill them ALL.
the same bearings in the axles, run GL5. (rollers or balls) they be happy. as are many other bear boxes.
The GL4 is for Synchromesh boxes. some GL5 is GL4 rated, the back of the bottle tells you that it is , if is. if not, it's not.
In fact new Gear lube bottles, now say on back, "not for Synchromesh boxes" clear as day. see my tune up page for GL4 choices. (napa carries it)
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/tune-u...#Gear_Lube
JUDDER (chatter:?)
first run the box in neutral, no clutch cable and take the bell lever and tie it back to rear of car, (causes a huge gap in the T/O bearing)
i wiggle that lever, and FEEL that play, cable off, if no play? then T/O or clutch fingers are TOASTED and bent or the T/o bearing has ruptured,(now too big ,trying to explode the can.)
if i feel play , it think ok, i have total release now, T/O is stalled now. so all NOISE, now, is in the BOX (and not the fly pilot bearing/or T/O)
this be first, way before, buying 5sp boxes. or viewing OMG 2wd parts.
in neutral, clutch pedal up, and cable off.
the cluster bearings spin x2 . so does the front main pilot shaft bearing. they always spin, if they make noise they are bad. and will get worst.
the clutch, needs to be inspected if the clutch chatters, as you engage it.
it can be lots of reasons, for cause, only eyes on parts prove that, no speculation but list all reasons, sure.
WHY?
PP warped or cracked
disc, warped or cracked.
disc soaked in GL4/5 ,maybe that is why its low, front seal bad? leaking and draining out of bottom of bell , un-notices.
galled pilot shaft, splines causing the Disc to stick and cause upsets.
seizing, front flyweel pilot gearing, (grabby)
only eye balls work , here, "inspections"
there are many more symptoms but this is Judder.
CABLEs from HELL:
the bad cable, never seen a used kick with one good cable yet.
the cable wears a grove inside,(unseen) and the cable sticks, fooling driver the clutch is bad. and is not. #1 reason for bad clutch, is this cable.
a $25 part and 1hr work, less send time. and less if rubber end of cable mount. not nuts.
if it gets worse see my clutch page, show the fire wall cracked and the top of pedal lever stripped,broken or warped.
how many doors,...... this answers most 2wd questions.
see always here
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clu...-kick.html
http://www.fixkick.com