ECU compatibility

[fixkick]

ECU still doesn't have power.

I bought new relays that are the proper spec and installed them. I checked all the fuses under the dash and in the engine bay. Still no power. Battery was a little low from sitting with lights on so I threw a charger on it. No power to pins A12 or A13. I replaced diode.

Still no engine light or power to the pins to power it.

I took readings from the relays. I didnt think to write down the colors, but I wrote them out as 1, 2, 3, 4. 1- Top Left, 2 - Top Right, 3 - Bottom Left, 4 - Bottom Right. The top is indicated by the tap facing upward.
thats all fine, but where is the negative lead of the voltmeter, ?
the best place for meter black lead is battery post NEG. this method shows ALL errors. even body errors and blow body grounds)

Green - Pump (the pump only runs for 3 seconds each keyon and cranking (and sure running) not now.
Key On
1. Positive - 13.63v
2. Negative - 14.46v why is this negative?
3. Positive - 13.69v
4. Negative 14.14v and this?

Key Off (these are floating measurements and mean nothing)
1. Negative - 14.38v
2. Negative - 14.38v
3. Negative - 14,38v
4. Negative - 14.38v

White -[b] Main
Key On , i only need this data, but i cant be sure. here. ill guess, meter is grounded, black to body or battery neg.


1. Positive 13.89v meter red test lead, guess at black-red, FI fuse power.
2. Positive 14.10v my guess is 2 of these are power good , black-white, IG-coil fuse good. power good.
3. Positive 13.92v one of these first 3 , really is the blue wire. diode blown.
4. Negative 14.09v[/b] my guess is this is relay output blue-black ,and is floating voltage, the neg, reading is just noise due to node floating ,noise.
the relay is NOT ENERGIZED, and the blue pin is wrong, here.

Key Off [color=#FF0000] (means nothing the power is off and all wires float. and will read randomly)
1. Negative 14.38
2. Positive 14.36
3. Negative 14.38
4. Negative 14.32

I'm guessing its (huh?)
1. Constant
2. Switched
3. To Device
4. Ground

It looks like there might be some slight leaking on my C103 Capacitor. BAD I'm going to get that swapped out tomorrow.
Do both caps they both have zero life now. long since , end of life. when it dries out the ECU goes quite NUTS.

I might try soldering another diode in D102 (if the blue wire was not at 0.7vdc (near zero) above, then the Diode is blown. or the ECU is not grounded.
to make sure it wasnt just damaged or something. The pack I bought came with 2 great , they sell for 3 cents at mouser.com dirt cheap diodes..

we only need 2 tests now (meter black lead grounded good)
keyon
main, blue wire, (solid blue) ECU pin 10 (must be 0.7vdc. near zero) you already did this, but not color stated, but its wrong. this pin.
and then we check ECU ground, to be sure its not broken. (the meter lead must be at battery neg lug to make this reading accurate,. true ground)
the ECU pins B1 and 2 must be grounded, they must read less than, 0.5vdc. if not ground is busted, (more tests) BLACK-Blue is GROUND.

SIdekicks are infamous for bad grounds. i have bad ground list on my pages.

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the ecu blows, anytime main blue wires is shorted to any power feed,
like getting wet in the rain sure, (naked)
the caps all fail 1 time. if they are marked rubycon, the are crap.
only 1 exception to this, one ECU i bought we NOS, new old stock and were good. all running ecu's all failed. all.
the leaked or were 1/2 dried out and low Farads.
or blown to bits, or splite, or vulcano'd , or blew there rubber seals. all of them.
if they are not black, then they are usually good. black is bad.
but these Nichicon's will outlast me...
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/nichicon.jpg