45 are real , in all cases. only why is the question.
the pin C line is stuck low. ( Pin C ,cut, or the switch is bad, or the switch opens too late.)
sorry, idle pin , i mean pin C, the TPS, ilde switch pin.
The only question is how to find it. (with no scan tools that is hard,)
with a scan tool we can see what the ECU sees, but not in this car, we must work blind... blinded.
there are only 2ways, find it. 3 really
1 replace it.
2 recalibrate it at .016" exactly on the threshold and do the go and nogo test to be sure its right.
when the switch is closed is it below 500 ohm?
3; attach DMM volt meter, to this wire to this C line. blue-white, near ECU and monitor it. constantly. ( very hard to do and a pain, and even more so as its is intermittent)
Facts: all TPS die, most are toast by 200k miles. seen 150k and 100k, so they die due to just wear on the carbon rings.
connector pins at TPS corroded.
ECU's can some time be reseated and they work,better but the pins there for wire C are gold flashed. and are very reliable until some person goes underwater, or drives with a windshield broken.
have you looked at the blue-white wire at ECU yes, for damage. some one cut it , in error doing alarm installs or audios systems, or worse, dang, remote starts.
the ECU pin that is faulting is pin A14
blue-white.
see that here.
![[Image: 8v-tbi-schematic91to95.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/8v-tbi-schematic91to95.jpg)
one other thing can set 45s
the dash pot. say the DP vsv valve sticks open and the DP sticks out extended, this will trip 45s (and RPM SCREAMS a this failure)
so will a tight throttle cable, prevent the tps from closing.
all we know is that it does fail. to close , not why.
the pin C line is stuck low. ( Pin C ,cut, or the switch is bad, or the switch opens too late.)
sorry, idle pin , i mean pin C, the TPS, ilde switch pin.
The only question is how to find it. (with no scan tools that is hard,)
with a scan tool we can see what the ECU sees, but not in this car, we must work blind... blinded.
there are only 2ways, find it. 3 really
1 replace it.
2 recalibrate it at .016" exactly on the threshold and do the go and nogo test to be sure its right.
when the switch is closed is it below 500 ohm?
3; attach DMM volt meter, to this wire to this C line. blue-white, near ECU and monitor it. constantly. ( very hard to do and a pain, and even more so as its is intermittent)
Facts: all TPS die, most are toast by 200k miles. seen 150k and 100k, so they die due to just wear on the carbon rings.
connector pins at TPS corroded.
ECU's can some time be reseated and they work,better but the pins there for wire C are gold flashed. and are very reliable until some person goes underwater, or drives with a windshield broken.
have you looked at the blue-white wire at ECU yes, for damage. some one cut it , in error doing alarm installs or audios systems, or worse, dang, remote starts.
the ECU pin that is faulting is pin A14
blue-white.
see that here.
one other thing can set 45s
the dash pot. say the DP vsv valve sticks open and the DP sticks out extended, this will trip 45s (and RPM SCREAMS a this failure)
so will a tight throttle cable, prevent the tps from closing.
all we know is that it does fail. to close , not why.
http://www.fixkick.com