the maf test on my web page shows how to test the MAF with a $10 DMM or voltmeter, it super easy to do... no guessing at all... see that?>
type maf in my search box. and bingo.
passing hand, you mean you attempted to hold hand over and blocking all incoming air to the engine, that is wild idea, and can hurt your hand, sucking that hard on ones hand is not a good idea.
not at ALL. ever.
barrowed sensors? what sensors?
the ecu will only be DEAD with blown fuses.
the ECU never goes DEAD, it can in fact run in 3 mode, think of it as 3 ECUs. IT IS.
normal.
Limphome, (suzuki fails safe it is offically called)
BACKUP mod.
3 modes. all 3 run, but only one gets 30 MPG the the other 2 get 10mpg. or worse. that is how all OBD1 ECU work, on all cars this era.
that is right it is strange and I told you why, the ECU is in fact bad.
no ECU is good if it cant flash codes at ANY TIME>. period (nag missing) that is a fact and must pass the key glows test.
the ecu failing to flash means , the ecu is in BACKUP mode, or simply CRASHED, (lost the "NORMAL " software code is not RUNNING NOW, because IM DEAD !!!)
nice of you to add the photos. we have no photos of canada stickers (one for 98, first canada oBD2 car)
good there is no nag, there are non usa countries with NAG features, its a USA EPA brain child, only, and is USELESS to progress. for sure with flakey ECU in USA.
testing the engine or sensors is not of any USE on a dead ECU.
dead is BACKUP mode.
dead means the ECU is not using SENSORS to inject , not at all. it is only using maybe just 2, the TPS and RPM. or just RPM. see???????
BTW, SUZUKI does NOT SPEC out this mode, they give like 1 line of data. seen here.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/LimpHome/failsafe.html
a double dead ECU will not start, say all 4 injectors drivers died.
or the main regulator in the ECU died, killiing all injectors and all spark dead. double and triple dead.
the ECU is just a computer
if you study them most say, Backup mode is used when the main processor dies. (or lost 5v) and switches to a BACKUP chip
imagine a chip that can only inject, fixed rates of injection and fixed spark
I consider backup mode to be like your lawn mower, just enough parts to mow lawn, waste fuel and make black smoke, as the surely are.
this is how all ECu work.
3 modes, yours is in backup mode. DEAD< dead means, its in lawn mower mode.
this mode can save your life, that is ITS ONLY feature.
if you had custom ECU, the engine would be dead, because 99% off all custom ECU dont have backup or limphome. so on custom cars the ENGINE STALLS.
guess how i now that. well I own 2 cars with that. I programmed both and turned them.
when my CEL dies, (will not flash on command, and is stuck off or on all the time) no flashing means IM DEAD, (backup mode if starts engine)
i get a new ECU.
most come back to life with a new C103 , many are split open others are dry inside. and read zero.
i remove it and connect it to my ESR /Cap meter, omg , it's 0 micro-Farad's it's just an empty dry shell inside. this is very common, on Rubicons, and never happens 1996+ (fact)
i do not try to test sensors with a dead ecu.
that be like asking a monkey to do calculus.?
its not strange, its BROKEN, seen many. too many
get a rebuilt ECU,'
I use, Cardone, they are #1 .
but many ecu CAN BE GOOD USED, If YOU CAN FIND THEM with the RUBIcon replaced.....
all RUBYs fail. all. (original still)
my ECU dead page covers all that , and all the way s and means to solve that.
even a bad injector is covered and how to fix any ECU output that is DEAD.
its all there.
The ECU that can NOT be fixed (DIY) is the ones that have acid damage.
this damage can be very very bad,
and hard to fix. I can but is hard.
never use bad logic (bad ecu ) to test sensors, it just a waste of you time,.. i promise.
point 2
putting any hand near a working mAF (ecu not bad) will cause huge turbulence to the maf hot wire, making it go nuts.
why do that. ?
its a very fragile and $1000 air meter, in fact the engineer did all he could do to get the air flowing past it to be STRAIGHT. and laminar.
some MPI maf have screen in front of the MAF, this is NO SCREEN, it is in fact a Laminar adjusting device. it makes the air go STRAIGHT.
do not mess with these parts. with hands or upset it. It proves nothing. and is risky to the very expensive mAF, .
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/92-95MAF/...er-maf.jpg
better , ? use my maf page and any dirty cheap volt meter ever made. any Vmeter works. here
here is the page
see fast rule test here. all this is very very simple testing of the maf. (even a dirt cheap flow bench)
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/92-95MAF/...sting.html
some of my tests, are on EXPENDABLE MAFs, to prove dynamic range only. (im showing how high i can get the output with no engine,)
In a real car, you just drive and watch the scan tool and MAF on display,
like this
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/MAF-TPS.JPG
point 3
the ECU can not tell you if a MAF is weak, only DEAD, or stuck high.
what you experience is low power wide open throttle.
type maf in my search box. and bingo.
passing hand, you mean you attempted to hold hand over and blocking all incoming air to the engine, that is wild idea, and can hurt your hand, sucking that hard on ones hand is not a good idea.
not at ALL. ever.
barrowed sensors? what sensors?
the ecu will only be DEAD with blown fuses.
the ECU never goes DEAD, it can in fact run in 3 mode, think of it as 3 ECUs. IT IS.
normal.
Limphome, (suzuki fails safe it is offically called)
BACKUP mod.
3 modes. all 3 run, but only one gets 30 MPG the the other 2 get 10mpg. or worse. that is how all OBD1 ECU work, on all cars this era.
that is right it is strange and I told you why, the ECU is in fact bad.
no ECU is good if it cant flash codes at ANY TIME>. period (nag missing) that is a fact and must pass the key glows test.
the ecu failing to flash means , the ecu is in BACKUP mode, or simply CRASHED, (lost the "NORMAL " software code is not RUNNING NOW, because IM DEAD !!!)
nice of you to add the photos. we have no photos of canada stickers (one for 98, first canada oBD2 car)
good there is no nag, there are non usa countries with NAG features, its a USA EPA brain child, only, and is USELESS to progress. for sure with flakey ECU in USA.
testing the engine or sensors is not of any USE on a dead ECU.
dead is BACKUP mode.
dead means the ECU is not using SENSORS to inject , not at all. it is only using maybe just 2, the TPS and RPM. or just RPM. see???????
BTW, SUZUKI does NOT SPEC out this mode, they give like 1 line of data. seen here.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/LimpHome/failsafe.html
a double dead ECU will not start, say all 4 injectors drivers died.
or the main regulator in the ECU died, killiing all injectors and all spark dead. double and triple dead.
the ECU is just a computer
if you study them most say, Backup mode is used when the main processor dies. (or lost 5v) and switches to a BACKUP chip
imagine a chip that can only inject, fixed rates of injection and fixed spark
I consider backup mode to be like your lawn mower, just enough parts to mow lawn, waste fuel and make black smoke, as the surely are.
this is how all ECu work.
3 modes, yours is in backup mode. DEAD< dead means, its in lawn mower mode.
this mode can save your life, that is ITS ONLY feature.
if you had custom ECU, the engine would be dead, because 99% off all custom ECU dont have backup or limphome. so on custom cars the ENGINE STALLS.
guess how i now that. well I own 2 cars with that. I programmed both and turned them.
when my CEL dies, (will not flash on command, and is stuck off or on all the time) no flashing means IM DEAD, (backup mode if starts engine)
i get a new ECU.
most come back to life with a new C103 , many are split open others are dry inside. and read zero.
i remove it and connect it to my ESR /Cap meter, omg , it's 0 micro-Farad's it's just an empty dry shell inside. this is very common, on Rubicons, and never happens 1996+ (fact)
i do not try to test sensors with a dead ecu.
that be like asking a monkey to do calculus.?
its not strange, its BROKEN, seen many. too many
get a rebuilt ECU,'
I use, Cardone, they are #1 .
but many ecu CAN BE GOOD USED, If YOU CAN FIND THEM with the RUBIcon replaced.....
all RUBYs fail. all. (original still)
my ECU dead page covers all that , and all the way s and means to solve that.
even a bad injector is covered and how to fix any ECU output that is DEAD.
its all there.
The ECU that can NOT be fixed (DIY) is the ones that have acid damage.
this damage can be very very bad,
and hard to fix. I can but is hard.
never use bad logic (bad ecu ) to test sensors, it just a waste of you time,.. i promise.
point 2
putting any hand near a working mAF (ecu not bad) will cause huge turbulence to the maf hot wire, making it go nuts.
why do that. ?
its a very fragile and $1000 air meter, in fact the engineer did all he could do to get the air flowing past it to be STRAIGHT. and laminar.
some MPI maf have screen in front of the MAF, this is NO SCREEN, it is in fact a Laminar adjusting device. it makes the air go STRAIGHT.
do not mess with these parts. with hands or upset it. It proves nothing. and is risky to the very expensive mAF, .
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/92-95MAF/...er-maf.jpg
better , ? use my maf page and any dirty cheap volt meter ever made. any Vmeter works. here
here is the page
see fast rule test here. all this is very very simple testing of the maf. (even a dirt cheap flow bench)
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/92-95MAF/...sting.html
some of my tests, are on EXPENDABLE MAFs, to prove dynamic range only. (im showing how high i can get the output with no engine,)
In a real car, you just drive and watch the scan tool and MAF on display,
like this
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/MAF-TPS.JPG
point 3
the ECU can not tell you if a MAF is weak, only DEAD, or stuck high.
what you experience is low power wide open throttle.
http://www.fixkick.com