08-19-2014, 12:58 AM
sorry if i mix you up ,helping on 3 forums with EGR , about 2, or persons, on each, omg...
the stall test is an RPM test.
the engine is hot. its 800 rpm hot, if not the engine is running bad and needs fixing first.
you push in the egr and it stalls or near stalls, 400 rpm is typical, the dash speedo is very crude, but the engine will shack real bad and RPMs drop by 1/2 . this is easy to see. no tacho.
with no tacho., its just pure experience, what a good one does, RPM wise and the huge shaking at 400 rpm the ECU tries every trick in the book to prevent the stall, even using the ISC aggressively and timing changes.
that is the stall test.
and is repeated with a hand vacuum pump. at the main nipple, (leak down test first the, do the stall with the vacuum tool) if it near stalls the same why the main EGR paths is good.
if the EGR dont hit 14k ohms with hand movement, of the diaphram the probe is just packed in carbon, heck never seen one not. not ever. its a carbon, magnet.
that is next , if the stall fails, the paths are blocked, and the EGRT is not fibbing, or is also just packed.
some folks get very frustrated, (rational , and justified) and clean it all, then test it and if it still fails do all the test. end to end, stall ,bark and live test.
the dash tacho shows the huge rpm drop or its fibbing, but all these analog tachos in dash are horribly , inaccurate, on the low end. 0 to 1000 rpm
can be off 100 rpm at 800
and 200 off at lower readings, this is why I never use it. its only a RED line warning device to me.. nothing more.
if the engine almost stalls, the pathes are usually good (exh)
but the 4 port, egr intake, loves to clog one port and that cyclinder how has full HP, and will drag the near dead ones faster. see?
or 2 are clogged.
that is why TRUE RPM matters. but i do admit , that the 4 port is very hard to test. only cleaning the ports makes for passing EGR. 51s./
the stall test is an RPM test.
the engine is hot. its 800 rpm hot, if not the engine is running bad and needs fixing first.
you push in the egr and it stalls or near stalls, 400 rpm is typical, the dash speedo is very crude, but the engine will shack real bad and RPMs drop by 1/2 . this is easy to see. no tacho.
with no tacho., its just pure experience, what a good one does, RPM wise and the huge shaking at 400 rpm the ECU tries every trick in the book to prevent the stall, even using the ISC aggressively and timing changes.
that is the stall test.
and is repeated with a hand vacuum pump. at the main nipple, (leak down test first the, do the stall with the vacuum tool) if it near stalls the same why the main EGR paths is good.
if the EGR dont hit 14k ohms with hand movement, of the diaphram the probe is just packed in carbon, heck never seen one not. not ever. its a carbon, magnet.
that is next , if the stall fails, the paths are blocked, and the EGRT is not fibbing, or is also just packed.
some folks get very frustrated, (rational , and justified) and clean it all, then test it and if it still fails do all the test. end to end, stall ,bark and live test.
the dash tacho shows the huge rpm drop or its fibbing, but all these analog tachos in dash are horribly , inaccurate, on the low end. 0 to 1000 rpm
can be off 100 rpm at 800
and 200 off at lower readings, this is why I never use it. its only a RED line warning device to me.. nothing more.
if the engine almost stalls, the pathes are usually good (exh)
but the 4 port, egr intake, loves to clog one port and that cyclinder how has full HP, and will drag the near dead ones faster. see?
or 2 are clogged.
that is why TRUE RPM matters. but i do admit , that the 4 port is very hard to test. only cleaning the ports makes for passing EGR. 51s./
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