1100 is failure.
yes, air leaks are bad on all MAF based engine, even on new cars. this is unmetered air.
i hope you didnt change the throttle stop screw. while cleaning, it, or set the throttle cable tight its set loose, always loose. pre FSM. (see 95 fsm it same way )
the 96 book cover the 16v well. only the 0BD2 parts are new.
if the engine is not 180f, all this testing and checks are usless, this is 1st on all engine, the ECU changes MODE by TEMP. 180F or more. is it?
then closed loop, you dont have a scan too so cant see closed loop fail. and if it does, this IS NEXT,
if the engine is not in closed, loop changes are the fuel mix is way too RICH.
when rich air leaks cause racing,, not slow idle. see? (equation too much fuel, and too much air, = racing)
this is why im all over closed loop status, hot idle. like tick on a hound dogs butt.
yes, air leaks are all bad.
but why not disconnect the ISC to see what the natural air leaks are, with the ISC disconnected it closes, 100% (you can test that removed, pre my video and page on same)
but its closed 100% on all working ISC or 99% on old ones is ok.
so if there are leaks. the idle is now over 600 rpm, finding air leaks is lots of work on any 16, see all those hoses, and that large pipe MAF.
mine large pipe the rear mount lug broke off, and was sucking air there. they can come from many places.
all induction air paths. injector cushions(base gaskets) intake gaskets, main air pip rubber ring messed up. IAC UNDER TB LEAKING., SOME ONE TOUCH THE IDLE STOP SCREW, that is a no no.
someone opened 100% the bleed screw (top side of TB under plastic plug) or lost it.
finding leaks, is hard, sure using spray , water, or propane finds leaks. sure , and so does the shop smoke machine. lots of ways, inspections, doing leak down tests on all lines.
the IAC is very hard to damage, near impossible, its a wax powered air valve. very very tough.
all air leaks are bad except
ISC
IAC (its closed hot at 150F and above) so it not it.
Bleed. screw.
period.
if you block those 3 paths the engine stalls NOw, if not it got a horrid air leak. why, bacause there is NO AIR NOW,you blocked it.
see my path drawing
dedicated page just to 16v old
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/16v-idle.html
photo of paths. a, b,c,d , path d is ILLEGAL path, at all times, (throttle cable set tight? wrong)
path b is closed hot,if not, the IAC is bad.
path c is the bleed, or duty cycle setting screw.
path a and 13 is the only major path of air. this is the ISC, if you unplugged it hot,the idle will drop very low. if not you have leaks.
![[Image: induction1a.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/induction1a.jpg)
one guy found the coolant path to the IAC blocked
and the IAC just stuck open, naturally.
i use a pyro gun to find those. the IAC must be hot, near 170f on the casing is normal.. if way low the path is blocked for water.
the IAC is a cold start warm up air supply, only. at all other times is closed, hot.
keep in mind, no scan tools means
you are blind, you can see closed loop work, or not work.
if not in closed loop we fix that first, idle is dead last on the list.
but if there are air leaks, the ECU drops closed loop, this is called this LOST, (confused) and many times, no CEL glows. (un like new cars)
do not spray wd-40 , to test or air leaks, in 2001 one WD took out the propane gas and now uses, CO2 or freon. neither will burn.
use carb cleaner or propane, latter is vastly safer. and some use water. (water blocks the leaks , well only the tiny leaks so water testing is near useless. IMO.
all the above is risky but water.
the shop uses a smoke machine (tricky to use, ask) but is risk free.
on the suzuki all the VSV valves are open key in pocket, confusing many a mechanic. a gift from SUzuki that.
the drawing does not show the hoses. most.
that is because they dont leak and are not part of the normal path of air.
see?
also a weak maf can cause the ECU to get lost. clean it very very very carefully its $1000 new.
you didnt mess with screw seen here in 16v TB photo?
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/screwed-again.html
if messed, set it using smallest feeler gauge on earth .0005" is mine
or as one forum guy said,
set it 100% closed
then turn the screw to the point that the TV moves .0005" the smalled humanly seen movement. lock it down.
this valve is closed. 99.99%
the screw and minisule gap is not for air, it's to prevent throttle jamming...!!!!! only !!!!
sorry if you did that, im just guessing. but you did clean the TB so.......
one guy turned the bleed, screw 1/2 a turn CW and the ECU took back control and went to 800 rpm hot.
but the duty cycle is way off. he has air leaks and hid like 1 in 3 or ?
the ECU needs at least 200 RPM head room, that is 600 rpm , ISC unplugged.
ball park, data. no suzuki doc tells this secret, you learn it doing tests on good engine, no leak inductions.
yes, air leaks are bad on all MAF based engine, even on new cars. this is unmetered air.
i hope you didnt change the throttle stop screw. while cleaning, it, or set the throttle cable tight its set loose, always loose. pre FSM. (see 95 fsm it same way )
the 96 book cover the 16v well. only the 0BD2 parts are new.
if the engine is not 180f, all this testing and checks are usless, this is 1st on all engine, the ECU changes MODE by TEMP. 180F or more. is it?
then closed loop, you dont have a scan too so cant see closed loop fail. and if it does, this IS NEXT,
if the engine is not in closed, loop changes are the fuel mix is way too RICH.
when rich air leaks cause racing,, not slow idle. see? (equation too much fuel, and too much air, = racing)
this is why im all over closed loop status, hot idle. like tick on a hound dogs butt.
yes, air leaks are all bad.
but why not disconnect the ISC to see what the natural air leaks are, with the ISC disconnected it closes, 100% (you can test that removed, pre my video and page on same)
but its closed 100% on all working ISC or 99% on old ones is ok.
so if there are leaks. the idle is now over 600 rpm, finding air leaks is lots of work on any 16, see all those hoses, and that large pipe MAF.
mine large pipe the rear mount lug broke off, and was sucking air there. they can come from many places.
all induction air paths. injector cushions(base gaskets) intake gaskets, main air pip rubber ring messed up. IAC UNDER TB LEAKING., SOME ONE TOUCH THE IDLE STOP SCREW, that is a no no.
someone opened 100% the bleed screw (top side of TB under plastic plug) or lost it.
finding leaks, is hard, sure using spray , water, or propane finds leaks. sure , and so does the shop smoke machine. lots of ways, inspections, doing leak down tests on all lines.
the IAC is very hard to damage, near impossible, its a wax powered air valve. very very tough.
all air leaks are bad except
ISC
IAC (its closed hot at 150F and above) so it not it.
Bleed. screw.
period.
if you block those 3 paths the engine stalls NOw, if not it got a horrid air leak. why, bacause there is NO AIR NOW,you blocked it.
see my path drawing
dedicated page just to 16v old
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/16v-idle.html
photo of paths. a, b,c,d , path d is ILLEGAL path, at all times, (throttle cable set tight? wrong)
path b is closed hot,if not, the IAC is bad.
path c is the bleed, or duty cycle setting screw.
path a and 13 is the only major path of air. this is the ISC, if you unplugged it hot,the idle will drop very low. if not you have leaks.
one guy found the coolant path to the IAC blocked
and the IAC just stuck open, naturally.
i use a pyro gun to find those. the IAC must be hot, near 170f on the casing is normal.. if way low the path is blocked for water.
the IAC is a cold start warm up air supply, only. at all other times is closed, hot.
keep in mind, no scan tools means
you are blind, you can see closed loop work, or not work.
if not in closed loop we fix that first, idle is dead last on the list.
but if there are air leaks, the ECU drops closed loop, this is called this LOST, (confused) and many times, no CEL glows. (un like new cars)
do not spray wd-40 , to test or air leaks, in 2001 one WD took out the propane gas and now uses, CO2 or freon. neither will burn.
use carb cleaner or propane, latter is vastly safer. and some use water. (water blocks the leaks , well only the tiny leaks so water testing is near useless. IMO.
all the above is risky but water.
the shop uses a smoke machine (tricky to use, ask) but is risk free.
on the suzuki all the VSV valves are open key in pocket, confusing many a mechanic. a gift from SUzuki that.
the drawing does not show the hoses. most.
that is because they dont leak and are not part of the normal path of air.
see?
also a weak maf can cause the ECU to get lost. clean it very very very carefully its $1000 new.
you didnt mess with screw seen here in 16v TB photo?
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/screwed-again.html
if messed, set it using smallest feeler gauge on earth .0005" is mine
or as one forum guy said,
set it 100% closed
then turn the screw to the point that the TV moves .0005" the smalled humanly seen movement. lock it down.
this valve is closed. 99.99%
the screw and minisule gap is not for air, it's to prevent throttle jamming...!!!!! only !!!!
sorry if you did that, im just guessing. but you did clean the TB so.......
one guy turned the bleed, screw 1/2 a turn CW and the ECU took back control and went to 800 rpm hot.
but the duty cycle is way off. he has air leaks and hid like 1 in 3 or ?
the ECU needs at least 200 RPM head room, that is 600 rpm , ISC unplugged.
ball park, data. no suzuki doc tells this secret, you learn it doing tests on good engine, no leak inductions.
http://www.fixkick.com