08-16-2014, 03:34 AM
great videos, can i use them.. nice showing the vacuum port block trick
very nicely done. that egr main, is that far tube free, that far nipple is the EGR MOD bark tube. it must not be clogged
does car have CAT converter?
nice good action on that main, its moving 100% but only vacuum test remains to prove it really works.
ok, lets work the vacuum side. Always do this in this order but backwards works too... sure.
seem the live test fails.
so what tools do you have, DMM,. yes, vacuum hand pump, nice, vacuum gage, good.
depending on tools in hand you can proceed many ways, there are ways to cheat, sure, ill pretend you have no tools.
ok , the egr main
the DIY no tools, (i dont like it but...) vacuum leak down test.
press the diaphragm in 100% the way, then with wet finger, cover the nipple end.
then release the diaphragm, it will move a tad but will not close as it sucks on your finger. this is very crude. but can work. many guys do just this, im extreme, i like to do 8 inches vacuum and no leak down at all, zero. or its bad. tiny cracks never stay tiny, is my reason..
ok valve main back, and its passes the stall test.
if it does that, then lets wake it up
next remove the hose on the top front right of plenum (evap vsv solenoid valve) this is a hard vacuum at idle it not fix that.
now you have a free vacuum sources. run a hose from that to the egr main, the engine stalls (do so engine running ,keep hose kinked until ready. (800 is not 400 rpm or stalls)
ok the far side vacuum works, and all exhaust side. great.
now the EGR MOD, connect that test vacuum to the front side, P nipple, the nipple that that goes to the EGR VSV. valve. solenoid.
again i keep my test hose kinked until i want it to suck. so release the kink and the EGR main valve must suck back and stall or the MOD is bad.
if the mod valve allows the main to suck back (open) then that path is ok, mostly,
remove the egr vsv hose on the P side running, feel if there is vaccum at the nipple there on the VSV at idle , it must be be so.
then race the engine fast, and see if this vsv opens and sucks air, the 89-95' year cars all suck air, (in 1996 you must drive over say over 1 mph or turn the rear tire by hand (yes silly huh)
if the vsv does not open check the voltage on the pins(use backprobe needles)
the vsv runs backwards from thinking, (oddly)
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/vsv.html
12v at idle, 0v , when racing engine , no need for driver, just by hand on TB throttle crank.
if the valve fails to open disconnect it genlty (has locks) and check the coil for about 35ohms.
mine read infinity on my 96' the coil was burned out.
if you have a vacuum gauge this is easier
and if you have a hand vacuum pump , most have the gauge built in.
easy.
we can do 2 vacuum checks and know whats happening.
for example, is can use vacuum "T" fittings added to the lines and check to see if the VSV even opens at all in 1 test.
on your 94 what should happen is that when you are parked, 0 mph ,hot engine.
the ECU will open the EGR VSV , off idle, it watches the idle TPS switch, and when it goes to 5v, it knows you left idle . and commands the VSV OPEN. 0v is open. across coil.
At 0v on coil (across ) the VSV opens and sucks vacuum to the MOD valve.
the mod valve modulates the EGR main, with exhaust back pressure.
we will work the mod valve if necessary.
but it works strangely , and uses the back pressure from the CAT to sense engine load. more load more EGR flow.
very nicely done. that egr main, is that far tube free, that far nipple is the EGR MOD bark tube. it must not be clogged
does car have CAT converter?
nice good action on that main, its moving 100% but only vacuum test remains to prove it really works.
ok, lets work the vacuum side. Always do this in this order but backwards works too... sure.
seem the live test fails.
so what tools do you have, DMM,. yes, vacuum hand pump, nice, vacuum gage, good.
depending on tools in hand you can proceed many ways, there are ways to cheat, sure, ill pretend you have no tools.
ok , the egr main
the DIY no tools, (i dont like it but...) vacuum leak down test.
press the diaphragm in 100% the way, then with wet finger, cover the nipple end.
then release the diaphragm, it will move a tad but will not close as it sucks on your finger. this is very crude. but can work. many guys do just this, im extreme, i like to do 8 inches vacuum and no leak down at all, zero. or its bad. tiny cracks never stay tiny, is my reason..
ok valve main back, and its passes the stall test.
if it does that, then lets wake it up
next remove the hose on the top front right of plenum (evap vsv solenoid valve) this is a hard vacuum at idle it not fix that.
now you have a free vacuum sources. run a hose from that to the egr main, the engine stalls (do so engine running ,keep hose kinked until ready. (800 is not 400 rpm or stalls)
ok the far side vacuum works, and all exhaust side. great.
now the EGR MOD, connect that test vacuum to the front side, P nipple, the nipple that that goes to the EGR VSV. valve. solenoid.
again i keep my test hose kinked until i want it to suck. so release the kink and the EGR main valve must suck back and stall or the MOD is bad.
if the mod valve allows the main to suck back (open) then that path is ok, mostly,
remove the egr vsv hose on the P side running, feel if there is vaccum at the nipple there on the VSV at idle , it must be be so.
then race the engine fast, and see if this vsv opens and sucks air, the 89-95' year cars all suck air, (in 1996 you must drive over say over 1 mph or turn the rear tire by hand (yes silly huh)
if the vsv does not open check the voltage on the pins(use backprobe needles)
the vsv runs backwards from thinking, (oddly)
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/vsv.html
12v at idle, 0v , when racing engine , no need for driver, just by hand on TB throttle crank.
if the valve fails to open disconnect it genlty (has locks) and check the coil for about 35ohms.
mine read infinity on my 96' the coil was burned out.
if you have a vacuum gauge this is easier
and if you have a hand vacuum pump , most have the gauge built in.
easy.
we can do 2 vacuum checks and know whats happening.
for example, is can use vacuum "T" fittings added to the lines and check to see if the VSV even opens at all in 1 test.
on your 94 what should happen is that when you are parked, 0 mph ,hot engine.
the ECU will open the EGR VSV , off idle, it watches the idle TPS switch, and when it goes to 5v, it knows you left idle . and commands the VSV OPEN. 0v is open. across coil.
At 0v on coil (across ) the VSV opens and sucks vacuum to the MOD valve.
the mod valve modulates the EGR main, with exhaust back pressure.
we will work the mod valve if necessary.
but it works strangely , and uses the back pressure from the CAT to sense engine load. more load more EGR flow.
http://www.fixkick.com