normal hot rpm is 800 (+- 50)
when you push the diaphram, it drops to 1/2 about 400, and the engine shakes hard, slow and misfires, some stall.
if it does that the exh. paths are open. good.
the dash rpm meter is not too accurate at 400. its not.
i have a video link to the look and sound of a forced EGR at hot idle. (dont hot so the rpm is not screaming cold)
your 2nd photo shows huge drop to me .
the whole point of a stall test, is to avoid a lost weekend of labor , cleaning, 5 major parts, 6 counting the egr main. lots of labor there....
the meter, is easy,. and safe,
see meter to resistance, ohms. if its a non autoranging meter set the scale to. 20k or 200k,
disconnec the thermoprobe 2 pin connector , connect the meter leads to the sensor pins pig tail connnector.
cold it will read 300k or so. if the meter shows infinity on 200k range that is ok, go up one scale, to 2meg range ahh, its 350k. its ok.
then then start engine (2 ways , ill show both)
and push the diaphram by hand (i never do that i use a hand pump. as the dang main is way out of reach) but that is what you do.
you open the diaphram and the DMM meter set to 200k now, you see it drop like a rock, resistance calls as the thing gets hot from exhaust flow.
see that?
or here is one more way. the 1995, many open the EGR parked (1996 you must exceed 2mph to do this)
but if you gun the engine fast does the EGR open by itself. it sure must. The egr VSV opens, the cat back pressure cause the vacuum to reach the egr main. and it opens.
if all that works (total path) hot only the egr is inactive at idle and cold and w.o.t..
if that works the diaphragm opens , racing hot engine, then the DMM drops to like 20k ohms or less, if not the thermoprobe is bad or packed in carbon block.
the thermoprobe is just a resistor. that is heat sensative, called a a NTC Thfermistor. (text book type) the readings of it are in the FSM and on my page,
ask questions. its ok.
when you push the diaphram, it drops to 1/2 about 400, and the engine shakes hard, slow and misfires, some stall.
if it does that the exh. paths are open. good.
the dash rpm meter is not too accurate at 400. its not.
i have a video link to the look and sound of a forced EGR at hot idle. (dont hot so the rpm is not screaming cold)
your 2nd photo shows huge drop to me .
the whole point of a stall test, is to avoid a lost weekend of labor , cleaning, 5 major parts, 6 counting the egr main. lots of labor there....
the meter, is easy,. and safe,
see meter to resistance, ohms. if its a non autoranging meter set the scale to. 20k or 200k,
disconnec the thermoprobe 2 pin connector , connect the meter leads to the sensor pins pig tail connnector.
cold it will read 300k or so. if the meter shows infinity on 200k range that is ok, go up one scale, to 2meg range ahh, its 350k. its ok.
then then start engine (2 ways , ill show both)
and push the diaphram by hand (i never do that i use a hand pump. as the dang main is way out of reach) but that is what you do.
you open the diaphram and the DMM meter set to 200k now, you see it drop like a rock, resistance calls as the thing gets hot from exhaust flow.
see that?
or here is one more way. the 1995, many open the EGR parked (1996 you must exceed 2mph to do this)
but if you gun the engine fast does the EGR open by itself. it sure must. The egr VSV opens, the cat back pressure cause the vacuum to reach the egr main. and it opens.
if all that works (total path) hot only the egr is inactive at idle and cold and w.o.t..
if that works the diaphragm opens , racing hot engine, then the DMM drops to like 20k ohms or less, if not the thermoprobe is bad or packed in carbon block.
the thermoprobe is just a resistor. that is heat sensative, called a a NTC Thfermistor. (text book type) the readings of it are in the FSM and on my page,
ask questions. its ok.
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