keep in mind 500 and 400 rpm is a stall. a very very strong engine, can run very slow, and many do just that.
it can stall or nearly , see it shake like wet dog, bingo that is a passing stall test.
that pinch is real bad,but does not effect the stall test.
does the EGR main open and close by hand fully?
the EGR main has valve in side, does it move freely? and not stick?
yes, on new cars, closed loop can happen in 15second from cold start but that is OBD2.
on this car, im nut sure, it needs heated O2 sensor, and the heater must not be open , on 0bd2 car the ECU tells you, heater open but not this car.
so for sure closed loop happens some time from 150F to 180F coolant temp.
air is moving, you mean exhaust is moving right, barking>? by barking i mean the exhaust pulse can be felt. running.
if yes, then the 11mm hole needs to be cleaned. in the TB.
see my slide shows on EGR.
if the EGR is defeated we can still get in to closed loop fast.
and i for one trouble shoot closed loop first.
the EGR activates never at idle and when the TPS idle switch opens (goes high) the EGR is activated, and flows EGR gasses up to near WOT then is cut. off.
on 1996+ car, you must be moving,
tricky , huh?
hey, your doing real good job here. you got the EGR off with out breaking those 6mm screws, use anti-seized compound on them so they NEVER DO.
The idle switch is a very important part.
it must be closed at idle or the IAC (electric) will be dead.
if must open , if not, the EGR will never enable. ever.
seems you are here.
btw2, my car had flat spots it EGR dead. this confuses the injection rates. egr dead. and was the strangest feeling if ever seen in throttle response (full tuneup and all else new stuff)
http://www.fixkick.com/EGR-Gen2a.html
hole #1 , the mono port EGR injector port
http://www.fixkick.com/EGR-horror2.html
i was hoping all along that hole 1 only is bad, it easy to fix. super easy compared to any pre 1995.5 16v
hole one is a big time , service, easy but it does get dirty fast.
at spark plug change is use gum brush here. 9mm the 11mm done.
it can stall or nearly , see it shake like wet dog, bingo that is a passing stall test.
that pinch is real bad,but does not effect the stall test.
does the EGR main open and close by hand fully?
the EGR main has valve in side, does it move freely? and not stick?
yes, on new cars, closed loop can happen in 15second from cold start but that is OBD2.
on this car, im nut sure, it needs heated O2 sensor, and the heater must not be open , on 0bd2 car the ECU tells you, heater open but not this car.
so for sure closed loop happens some time from 150F to 180F coolant temp.
air is moving, you mean exhaust is moving right, barking>? by barking i mean the exhaust pulse can be felt. running.
if yes, then the 11mm hole needs to be cleaned. in the TB.
see my slide shows on EGR.
if the EGR is defeated we can still get in to closed loop fast.
and i for one trouble shoot closed loop first.
the EGR activates never at idle and when the TPS idle switch opens (goes high) the EGR is activated, and flows EGR gasses up to near WOT then is cut. off.
on 1996+ car, you must be moving,
tricky , huh?
hey, your doing real good job here. you got the EGR off with out breaking those 6mm screws, use anti-seized compound on them so they NEVER DO.
The idle switch is a very important part.
it must be closed at idle or the IAC (electric) will be dead.
if must open , if not, the EGR will never enable. ever.
seems you are here.
btw2, my car had flat spots it EGR dead. this confuses the injection rates. egr dead. and was the strangest feeling if ever seen in throttle response (full tuneup and all else new stuff)
http://www.fixkick.com/EGR-Gen2a.html
hole #1 , the mono port EGR injector port
http://www.fixkick.com/EGR-horror2.html
i was hoping all along that hole 1 only is bad, it easy to fix. super easy compared to any pre 1995.5 16v
hole one is a big time , service, easy but it does get dirty fast.
at spark plug change is use gum brush here. 9mm the 11mm done.
http://www.fixkick.com