the rad side expansion tank is 1/2 full, and rad full
you drive an the rad coOlant expands. and side tank goes to full.
then you park it and as it cools the contraction water in the the rad (its NEAR full. see) and sucks the water from the side overflow tube. both tubes must be good or it cant suck back.
the rad to overflow tank TUBE and the TUBE inside the overflow tank, JUST BE GOOD, NO CRACKS.
if you fill the read 100% and the overflow 100% all cars overflow, this is normal but that side tank was not prefilled correctly
if the rad is full and side tank low, and then overflows. that engine is sick, no matter what gauges tell.
after ALL that gauge can NOT measure AIR, only water nor can it measure exhaust fumes.
try a new rad cap, if the gasket there is split all this fails. all. it's a 12-14PSI system. the cap does that.
MY GUESS IS THE SUCK TUBES ARE BAD.
OR RAD CAP BAD.
WHEN ENGINE IS HOT THE TOP RAD HOSE MUST BE HARD, 12PSI HARD, imagine a baked 12lb ham pushing back (1/2 joking)
but no matter what if there is a problem it will get worse. so early signs all matter
1: misfire
2: pinging
3: water in oil, or oil in water. or carbon floating in the rad filler neck.
4: steam at tail pipe hot engine.
5: water at passengers toes, water anywhere but inside engine, never on ground.
17 to 24 signs and causes here.
http://www.fixkick.com/overheating.html
keep in mind the RAD has excess capacity, and love to hide early symptoms, that is its job1 . excess cooling.
A/c ON SUMMER DAY, UP HILL , 13,000 FEET. HIGH (THIN AIR )
if the suck tube fails
the rad, level will drops , every day,
its a fact. it fact of pure physics...
when the rad fluid contracts and it sucks air, the RAD level MUST DROP.
like clock work.
so that is why make sure the suck tube works first and not panic on engine eating and burning coolant last.
i have a test for this too. (not you, no scare)
![[Image: freeze-damage97w.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-pull/images/freeze-damage97w.jpg)
water in oil
and my compression leak down tool, at piston 1/2 way down (tricky) i can hear hissing in the dip tube and my oil fill cap , oil pan empty.
or hissing at drain hole of pan,
another way is rad and block empty of water
i use rad pressure tool and listen with my small hose to eary in 6 places or more.
not exhaust. ahh..
not intake,
no hissing at head gasket
oops it hisses in the oil filler,ooops......
we do that to decide, fix the bum engine (above) or buy a rebuilt fast.
you drive an the rad coOlant expands. and side tank goes to full.
then you park it and as it cools the contraction water in the the rad (its NEAR full. see) and sucks the water from the side overflow tube. both tubes must be good or it cant suck back.
the rad to overflow tank TUBE and the TUBE inside the overflow tank, JUST BE GOOD, NO CRACKS.
if you fill the read 100% and the overflow 100% all cars overflow, this is normal but that side tank was not prefilled correctly
if the rad is full and side tank low, and then overflows. that engine is sick, no matter what gauges tell.
after ALL that gauge can NOT measure AIR, only water nor can it measure exhaust fumes.
try a new rad cap, if the gasket there is split all this fails. all. it's a 12-14PSI system. the cap does that.
MY GUESS IS THE SUCK TUBES ARE BAD.
OR RAD CAP BAD.
WHEN ENGINE IS HOT THE TOP RAD HOSE MUST BE HARD, 12PSI HARD, imagine a baked 12lb ham pushing back (1/2 joking)
but no matter what if there is a problem it will get worse. so early signs all matter
1: misfire
2: pinging
3: water in oil, or oil in water. or carbon floating in the rad filler neck.
4: steam at tail pipe hot engine.
5: water at passengers toes, water anywhere but inside engine, never on ground.
17 to 24 signs and causes here.
http://www.fixkick.com/overheating.html
keep in mind the RAD has excess capacity, and love to hide early symptoms, that is its job1 . excess cooling.
A/c ON SUMMER DAY, UP HILL , 13,000 FEET. HIGH (THIN AIR )
if the suck tube fails
the rad, level will drops , every day,
its a fact. it fact of pure physics...
when the rad fluid contracts and it sucks air, the RAD level MUST DROP.
like clock work.
so that is why make sure the suck tube works first and not panic on engine eating and burning coolant last.
i have a test for this too. (not you, no scare)
water in oil
and my compression leak down tool, at piston 1/2 way down (tricky) i can hear hissing in the dip tube and my oil fill cap , oil pan empty.
or hissing at drain hole of pan,
another way is rad and block empty of water
i use rad pressure tool and listen with my small hose to eary in 6 places or more.
not exhaust. ahh..
not intake,
no hissing at head gasket
oops it hisses in the oil filler,ooops......
we do that to decide, fix the bum engine (above) or buy a rebuilt fast.
http://www.fixkick.com