06-28-2014, 05:44 AM
welcome!!!
the TPS never throws a code unless 100% bad, or 100% not calibrated correctly
it assumes the driver is 15years old and crazy as a bed bug, ( I was )
the TPS is just a carbon POT. a variable resistor.
and as the carbon wears bad it gets glitchy. in fact wears out where the speed the person loved to drive, say 45mhp country boy.
The ECU reads the output of the TPS and sees what is called delta. IF it sees you move the right foot really fast, it uses more ENRICH.
if the TPS fails to show truth, (fast foot) the engine bogs until the MAF catches up, the MAF is slow.
the air slug is fast and wins but the TPS cuts the slug off at the pass, and enriches faster.
think of the TPS as an early warning system. for fast foot and fast slugs of pure air. (pure, not pure but too lean)
I think your TPS is bad. (end of line)
but do clean maf hot wire, with the spray it, from say 1 foot, 300mm , away. (Carb cleaner or maf spray)
it can bet coked up and act slow. and will cause underfueling... (fast) I clean it first, then drive.
happy trails.
bench testing TPS is hard to see it glitch, they are tricky that way.
(06-28-2014, 04:00 AM)Alexbaba Wrote: I have been reading almost every thread regarding similar problems as I have...But couldn't really solve my problem..
Car:
Vitara 16v G16B 5door JLX -94
About 190000km
JSAETD01V00150018
ETD01V
*When warming up it revs between 1500-2000, stabilizes after about a minute or 2, down to around 1200.
*Warm stable 800rpm all normal.
BUT
When pressing my pedal gently it lacks of power whatever speed I go. (
I can either let go/pedal to the metal to get rid of this "Jerk/bogg/powerdrop". this says, the MAF is working good, (mostly) and TPS is bad.
But when I want to cruise with gentle pressure on the pedal it keeps doing this. More or less from time to time.
And MPG feels pretty poor, maybe 1.2/L/10Km (I'm swedishWELCOME to TEXAS !
where men are men and sheep are scared. LOL (quoting my side kick friend)
*TPS indicates
from 1-3
idle 0.45Kohm ----WOT 4.5 Kohm
(the other pins is whitin the recomended intervals)
*The cable shoe
0V, ~5V,0.2V, ~5V
(when key in ON position)
Also check engine when unplugged
*When removing MAP I get the check engine and rpm changes.
(cleaned)
* EGR looked like a fulltime smoking old mans lungs. But is cleaned(and fully function, if I press the silicone part it stalls, correct?) YES and good !
* No leaks when spraying brake cleaner
I may have forgot something, and my english might be a bit incorrect. but I hope someone have a clue
Thanks!
the TPS never throws a code unless 100% bad, or 100% not calibrated correctly
it assumes the driver is 15years old and crazy as a bed bug, ( I was )
the TPS is just a carbon POT. a variable resistor.
and as the carbon wears bad it gets glitchy. in fact wears out where the speed the person loved to drive, say 45mhp country boy.
The ECU reads the output of the TPS and sees what is called delta. IF it sees you move the right foot really fast, it uses more ENRICH.
if the TPS fails to show truth, (fast foot) the engine bogs until the MAF catches up, the MAF is slow.
the air slug is fast and wins but the TPS cuts the slug off at the pass, and enriches faster.
think of the TPS as an early warning system. for fast foot and fast slugs of pure air. (pure, not pure but too lean)
I think your TPS is bad. (end of line)
but do clean maf hot wire, with the spray it, from say 1 foot, 300mm , away. (Carb cleaner or maf spray)
it can bet coked up and act slow. and will cause underfueling... (fast) I clean it first, then drive.
happy trails.
bench testing TPS is hard to see it glitch, they are tricky that way.
http://www.fixkick.com