06-19-2014, 02:42 AM
the only ways to prove it are.
1: scan tool, from rhinoman. wins top of list awards for best ever try.
2: CEL glows, running or has DTC's stored (not yours, it passes this test)
3: The ECU is lost. The ECU can get lost if it don't now what to do, to get Fueling right. It will show Closed loop dead, and LTFT and STFT parameters (called PIDS today) are DEAD (lifeless)
4: low fuel mileage, (15 is very low) due to 02 sensor dead, if the o2 is dead, the ECU is lost. and there are ways to prove, this.
5: RPM cap (no)
6: retarded timing, the strobe light fails to go past 40 degrees. racing in neutral, (neutral is zero load and advance is most extreme, no load and is best test for this)
7: top cause of getting lost are, too high fuel pressure, or exhaust air leaks near oxy sensor or bad oxy sensor. , or a very weak or very dirty MAF or ECT not hitting 300 ohms hot.
this is the 16valve right> G16B with 4 injectors ,right?
on 16v any of the 16 injectors leaking or clogged , fully or in part will make the ECU get lost.
Yes, it's the 95.5 16 Valve California with pipe 51 in the EGR circuit. Now that you mention it, the O2 sensor was due at 100k but the car wasn't here then so I'm guessing that didn't get done either. I was just checking where the EGR main valve was and noticed a lot of oil on the back of the engine and new sealant around the valve cover. Called my daughter and she said it was leaking so bad that a local redid the cover. I'd bet the dizzy O-rings needed doing too.
Right now I think when I get parts the order will be:
1. Check Compression (if it's bad off to plan B - sell car)
2. TB and water pump plus dizzy O-rings
3. Wires, plugs and O2 sensor
4. EGR clean/test
5. IAC clean/test
6. might as well check the MAF and TPS sensors before I button it all up.
7. Reset the idle and test. If things are still bad I'll go to plan C (I have no idea what that might be)
1: scan tool, from rhinoman. wins top of list awards for best ever try.
2: CEL glows, running or has DTC's stored (not yours, it passes this test)
3: The ECU is lost. The ECU can get lost if it don't now what to do, to get Fueling right. It will show Closed loop dead, and LTFT and STFT parameters (called PIDS today) are DEAD (lifeless)
4: low fuel mileage, (15 is very low) due to 02 sensor dead, if the o2 is dead, the ECU is lost. and there are ways to prove, this.
5: RPM cap (no)
6: retarded timing, the strobe light fails to go past 40 degrees. racing in neutral, (neutral is zero load and advance is most extreme, no load and is best test for this)
7: top cause of getting lost are, too high fuel pressure, or exhaust air leaks near oxy sensor or bad oxy sensor. , or a very weak or very dirty MAF or ECT not hitting 300 ohms hot.
this is the 16valve right> G16B with 4 injectors ,right?
on 16v any of the 16 injectors leaking or clogged , fully or in part will make the ECU get lost.
Yes, it's the 95.5 16 Valve California with pipe 51 in the EGR circuit. Now that you mention it, the O2 sensor was due at 100k but the car wasn't here then so I'm guessing that didn't get done either. I was just checking where the EGR main valve was and noticed a lot of oil on the back of the engine and new sealant around the valve cover. Called my daughter and she said it was leaking so bad that a local redid the cover. I'd bet the dizzy O-rings needed doing too.
Right now I think when I get parts the order will be:
1. Check Compression (if it's bad off to plan B - sell car)
2. TB and water pump plus dizzy O-rings
3. Wires, plugs and O2 sensor
4. EGR clean/test
5. IAC clean/test
6. might as well check the MAF and TPS sensors before I button it all up.
7. Reset the idle and test. If things are still bad I'll go to plan C (I have no idea what that might be)