05-15-2014, 01:39 AM
So I had to cheat. There was no way I could precisely make the holes for the pins without having the actual locking nut in my hand. So I put in a hardened steel pin in one of the holes, I used 1/4" rather than 6 mm. so it fit very snug, I actually had to hit it in a little bit with a mallet. I then placed a long 1/2" extension on the pin and gave it a couple of hits with a 5 lbs. sledge hammer and the nut came loose, using the pin helped me not to chisel the actual nut and damaging it. Once the nut was out I took out the dowel pin. I laid the nut on a 1-1/4" pipe coupling and clamping it down to the milling machine table, using a 6 mm. end mill I made the four holes carefully going through the actual holes on the locking nut. I made the holes deep enough so that only 1/4" of the pins stick out that way the tool sits flat against the locking nut and helps stability. I then reinforced it with some welding and welded a 1-1/8" socket with 1/2" drive at the end. Now I should be able to torque this thing back to spec.
1996 Geo Tracker, CAMI, 16 valve, 5sp, 4x4, soft top, 2 door, no a/c