12-08-2023, 12:30 AM
here are some facts on ECU.
all from first to 1996 , G16 mostly.
the ECU inputs do not ever blow out. they are R/C filter protected. so never below up. (short of lightening hits) I used to work in a factory and as a field tech both)
the CAPS fail 10x more than any other parts here, due to they have a 10x less than say a transistor,. (talking only electrolytic here)
The other failures are injector drivers, and last the +5vdc reference supply blows up from users of cars hot wiring sensor on the car and the blow the 5vRef to H3LL.
one ECU the copper trace to the 5vdc zener diode protector vaporized. (and was an easy fix. once seen)
the caps called electrolytic, are all short lived, some brands are even worse for sure 1995 year, that even crack open.
the caps that look good (can shaped) and are polarized, (minus mark on sides) dry out and read uF on a cap meter, and are useless. now.
when the corner cap fails the ECU reboots endlessly. eve so badly the scan tool is dead. (no comms)
to buy them it is best to buy fresh caps not junk off fleabay china cloned crap. CCC,. fresh and buy Nichicon.
buy same or more UF
same or more Volts
and lowest ESR on the table at mouser i just posted.
LOW ESR , cleans the noise up best.
the battery in the car must be kept charged up as below 10vdc the ECU regulator go mad (not bad ,just mad)
the old old 33 year old ECU is here
you can see the minus STRIPE there.
do not put them it backwards or they explode. (leak, rupture)
https://fixkick.com/ECU/hell/html/image_16.html
see those RED X 's
those love to fail for sure 33 years old. for sure.
for sure hot summer cars located. hot hot cabs wreck caps.
the orange cap seen mid board mostly passes all tests.
all from first to 1996 , G16 mostly.
the ECU inputs do not ever blow out. they are R/C filter protected. so never below up. (short of lightening hits) I used to work in a factory and as a field tech both)
the CAPS fail 10x more than any other parts here, due to they have a 10x less than say a transistor,. (talking only electrolytic here)
The other failures are injector drivers, and last the +5vdc reference supply blows up from users of cars hot wiring sensor on the car and the blow the 5vRef to H3LL.
one ECU the copper trace to the 5vdc zener diode protector vaporized. (and was an easy fix. once seen)
the caps called electrolytic, are all short lived, some brands are even worse for sure 1995 year, that even crack open.
the caps that look good (can shaped) and are polarized, (minus mark on sides) dry out and read uF on a cap meter, and are useless. now.
when the corner cap fails the ECU reboots endlessly. eve so badly the scan tool is dead. (no comms)
to buy them it is best to buy fresh caps not junk off fleabay china cloned crap. CCC,. fresh and buy Nichicon.
buy same or more UF
same or more Volts
and lowest ESR on the table at mouser i just posted.
LOW ESR , cleans the noise up best.
the battery in the car must be kept charged up as below 10vdc the ECU regulator go mad (not bad ,just mad)
the old old 33 year old ECU is here
you can see the minus STRIPE there.
do not put them it backwards or they explode. (leak, rupture)
https://fixkick.com/ECU/hell/html/image_16.html
see those RED X 's
those love to fail for sure 33 years old. for sure.
for sure hot summer cars located. hot hot cabs wreck caps.
the orange cap seen mid board mostly passes all tests.
http://www.fixkick.com