NO DTC both live and pending or stored ,right.
your data looks bliss. gee its in closed loop, is front 02 , new or new 50k miles go ,is good. Rear 02 only does CAT tests, so is not related to this.
the bleed closed to make it run right proves vacuum leaks exist, even the brake booster can, so block its hose and drive only in home hood, and brakes have full power just takes more pressure to get to full braking do not let kid or wife drive car like that(booster dead) or they will panic , per normal. (i taught my wife to drive with no booster and no power steering)
25 "HG is ok 20 is part but rpm matters too, 800= 25"
first off sadly there vast ways to get a vacuum leak. finding some is a horror.
the pinch hose tests are valid.
PVC hose, inspected for cracks
FPR love to fain now, see gas at vacuum hose removed it is bad FPR. the fuel pressure must vary 6PSI from keyon no start to start hot idle 800. must. on 16v car. or FPR is toasted.
the IAC can leak, the only way to prove that (thermal IAC) is to use clay and block its suck port in TB air horn.
it must be 100%closed at 150f UP, for sure, no leaks hot or idle controls fail and will go worse every day forward in time.
all vacuum hoses. skip none.
good 5speed the 3speed vacuum modulator can no leak it is not there. but on engine swaps A/ T M/T the wrong Intake man is there and the modulator nipple must not there not plugged correctly
the EGR ,main can crack casing and leak,or its gasket or the left side of plenum (facing engine left) the egr sst side winder tube the SST gasket not missing, see it.
off my vac leak pages this. drawing I made (crude)
show all paths.
the ecu is in closed loop and not in limp home mode so idle regulation ISC is working.
IAC leaks, MAF always leaks 100% its a pipe wide and huge.
somebody messed the TV stops screw ( the newer touch white painted factory set screw) I set it to 0.0005 " gap, 99.9%closed and is good. 100% is asking for TV jams.
missing below are bad EGR cracks to atmosphere or VSV leaks. and brake booster. leaking air, on vacuum side. you have no 8v map,(well egr map can have bad gasket)
the bleed sets idle duty cycle (ISC) to 50% , shows 7vdc on the 2 ISC pins, turn bleed to get 7v and puts it into the center of its dynamic range of air flow ISCV.
![[Image: freshair-map.jpg]](https://fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/more-photos/freshair-map.jpg)
your data looks bliss. gee its in closed loop, is front 02 , new or new 50k miles go ,is good. Rear 02 only does CAT tests, so is not related to this.
the bleed closed to make it run right proves vacuum leaks exist, even the brake booster can, so block its hose and drive only in home hood, and brakes have full power just takes more pressure to get to full braking do not let kid or wife drive car like that(booster dead) or they will panic , per normal. (i taught my wife to drive with no booster and no power steering)
25 "HG is ok 20 is part but rpm matters too, 800= 25"
first off sadly there vast ways to get a vacuum leak. finding some is a horror.
the pinch hose tests are valid.
PVC hose, inspected for cracks
FPR love to fain now, see gas at vacuum hose removed it is bad FPR. the fuel pressure must vary 6PSI from keyon no start to start hot idle 800. must. on 16v car. or FPR is toasted.
the IAC can leak, the only way to prove that (thermal IAC) is to use clay and block its suck port in TB air horn.
it must be 100%closed at 150f UP, for sure, no leaks hot or idle controls fail and will go worse every day forward in time.
all vacuum hoses. skip none.
good 5speed the 3speed vacuum modulator can no leak it is not there. but on engine swaps A/ T M/T the wrong Intake man is there and the modulator nipple must not there not plugged correctly
the EGR ,main can crack casing and leak,or its gasket or the left side of plenum (facing engine left) the egr sst side winder tube the SST gasket not missing, see it.
off my vac leak pages this. drawing I made (crude)
show all paths.
the ecu is in closed loop and not in limp home mode so idle regulation ISC is working.
IAC leaks, MAF always leaks 100% its a pipe wide and huge.
somebody messed the TV stops screw ( the newer touch white painted factory set screw) I set it to 0.0005 " gap, 99.9%closed and is good. 100% is asking for TV jams.
missing below are bad EGR cracks to atmosphere or VSV leaks. and brake booster. leaking air, on vacuum side. you have no 8v map,(well egr map can have bad gasket)
the bleed sets idle duty cycle (ISC) to 50% , shows 7vdc on the 2 ISC pins, turn bleed to get 7v and puts it into the center of its dynamic range of air flow ISCV.
http://www.fixkick.com