06-12-2022, 08:22 AM
(05-21-2022, 03:28 AM)sina27 Wrote: Hey guys,
I have a 1996 Tracker, 2WD, 5 Speed, 16 valve.
I just put a new doug thornley header on it and a brand new magnaflow CAT. The car drives great!
However I failed California smog. The hydrocarbon sniff test read around 90ppm, and the max allowed is around 60.
I think the car is running rich at idle. If I drive the car for a while and then stop, I dont see any smoke. But if I let it idle for a few minutes, and then give it a bit of gas in neutral, it spits out a little bit of smoke.
This is what I have done so far:
- New spark plugs (NGK BKR6E), gapped at .028
- New dizzy cap and wires
- New ISC
- New EGR valve
- New air filter
- Made sure timing is at 5 degrees using a timing light
- Valve tappet adjustment
- Checked duty cycle, set at 50% when idling hot
- New thermostat. ECT sensor reads 300ohms when hot
- FUEL PRESSURE TEST: Key on was at 42, and held at around 40 for at least a minute. Idling, I got around 32psi
- I checked the continuity of the fuel injector and replaced the o rings etc...
- COMPRESSION: did a compression test on a warm engine and I got anywhere between 163-175 on all pistons
- the check engine light is NOT on
- Both 02 sensors are less than 6 months old. I backprobed the upstream 02 sensor during idle, and it was fluctuating between 100mV-800mV. Is this normal for it "swing"
- Cleaned my MAF. At idle, it shows 2 volts while back probing. If I give it throttle, it goes to 3V
- EGR VSV and EVAP VSV have correct resistance and "click" when I apply voltage using a battery
I have no idea whats going on. All the other readings from the smog test looked good- the only thing that failed was the high HC at 15mph.
Like I said, it seems to run rich during idle.
When I check my spark plugs, the top electrode is kind of white in color, which indicates lean...but I'm running rich.
What gives? Anything else I should check?
im currently running penzoil 5W-30. Should I try increasing the weight of the oil just for the smog test? What oil weight do you recommend?
Thanks for all your help
Sina
custom engine with these parts doug thornley header on it and a brand new magnaflow CAT
it can be very hard to pass that seller never ever got calif CARB certification,I bet.
SEE BLACK SMOKE, SEEM THAT SMOKE AND SMELLS LIKE FUEL OR UNBURNED FUEL
ok one care like this (older and harder) filed only because the cat was to big and or too far from the exhaust ports. ( he spent a fortune until I told him this)
what that means is the cat must stay lite off, the ECU wastes fuel on purpose to do that. and the cat eats up every drop of fuel doing so.
the cat runs to cold, is the other way to say the same thing a 1600 cc cat or 2000max is best range (eng. displacement) for the cat.
i guess P0421 test passed no DTC error and drove until the cat monitor test ran out.?
no DTC means nothing until all the test run out. called status monitors.
this 16v G16b and compression speck is 195 PSI warm or not and less cold for sure
is you compression that low 163, if yes probably not done right , or bad gauge gee my 8v can to 160 and CR is way less and is why the 16v does way more 30 psi more..
i say this with mind tracking belt slip cam or bottom crank front cog key a wreck as seen on VAST.
the spark plugs must out and let the gauge peak the count turns rule is pure bogus myth seen well on the internet. peak it. same answer from 1920 to now. for a fact.
and throttle must be blocked open and kill spark or fuel , killing fuel is best , so no bath in fuel and smoking you be a flame thrower from ww2.
The right cat is a 3 way cat, and small for G16, and close the header collector as possible.
fuel pressure at spec, keyon , nostart and at idle both and regulates. and 6psI DIFFERENCE, KEYON TO IDLE VAST BAD FPR NOW, THEY DIE THIS OLD.
spark timed with timing freeze jumper planted:?
THE CAT MUST BE LIT OFF, THERE IS A TEST FOR THAT
USING ANY IR THERMAL GUN
MEASURE FRONT AND REAR CAT TEMPS AND THE DIFFERENCE IS HUGE,
My old fixkick page 2007 is smarter than me now (grin) . ouch 72yo, now,
cat test page
Pyrometer or IR gun heat test, just measure the temperature on both sides of the CAT and the output must be 100 deg F.More that the input to the CAT. If equal or less, the CAT is bad.
cat bad or wrong cat, too big a cat or cat to far from HEADER flange.
there is and ASE chapter on PPM HC by displacement to a cat, not sure what it is but a pro smog shop knows this.
the even measure it with 5 gas machine and a drilled probe hole, to the cat, front pipe.
but thermal tests are first not drill bits.
I do how this helps you. cheers
PS
the PPM HC is high on purpose (ECU BRAIN) to keep cat hot.
or before the 15mph rest race the engine fast, 2500 rpm neutral ( if they let you then go into gear and do the 15 promptly) mind set hot hot hot CAT.
a new cat can eat a ton of HC but only HOT.
http://www.fixkick.com