01-15-2022, 03:36 AM
(01-15-2022, 01:57 AM)fixkick: When I am not driving and the transfer is in neutral it does whine. When I am driving in 2wd, 4wd, or 4wd low, it whines. When I am driving in 2wd, 4th gear it does whine but it is harder to hear from the road noise.How does one adjust the idler? After you mentioned the idler, I looked at my pictures of the idler when the case was split (gear closer to case web) and the idler before the case went together (gear farther from case web). It appears that the idler reversed on its shaft by looking at the two photos. And by looking at the gear wear patterns on the second, before assembly photo. Would this cause the noise? Wrote:(01-15-2022, 01:06 AM)Xoloski Wrote: Hi all,FIRST OFF WELCOME AN THANKS OR SHARING !!!!
I am Steve AKA Xoloski, from southeast AZ and this is about my 1993 Sidekick JX.
The trans was whining and I didn't want a used unknown quality transmission so, I instead bought a good kit with Japanese bearings and seals. The syncros were good so I didn't buy them.
Also installed shifter sheets & shift lever socket. Installed new LUK clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and pilot bearing.
I had the flywheel turned at my local and trusted machine shop. New transfer case seals and I replaced the transmission mounts for good measure.
I pulled the trans, separated the transfer, split the cases, and replaced all 7 bearings, and all seals.
Everything went smoothly and there were no extra parts upon completion. The only issue I had was transmission reinstallation because the top right dowel was a wee bit distorted and didn't want to engage. I slightly chamfered the trans case and it went right together with all engine to trans bolts going in by finger, then torqued to spec.
After reinstallation, new proper lubes, and cable adjustment, the transmission still makes a whining noise in neutral, clutch released, transfer in neutral. The noise goes away with clutch depressed. The noise is not related to the throughout bearing. The noise is present driving in all gears, though less noticeable in 4th, as would be expected. Please see videos, and yes I know my idle is high but, that is a separate issue.
I did buy and install a new Allstate input shaft as the journal that mates with the pilot bearing was excessively worn. The shaft measured exactly what the OE shaft did. The needle bearing between the input shaft and the main shaft looked good when removed although there was a slight wear on the ID bearing surface of the input shaft but no visible wear on the OD of the main shaft where the needle bearing rides. Actually, all the removed bearings looked serviceable without excessive wear. It was obvious that I was not the first to open the cases. The countershaft middle bearing was more of a roller bearing than the supplied ball bearing, but the diameters were right and everything pressed off and on properly.
The only things I can think of causing the noise would be:
1) the new input shaft gear does not mate properly with the OE countershaft gear because of countershaft wear. (which may go away with time as the gears lap)
2) there is damage or lifetime wear to the countershaft, even though the input to counter shaft lash in unnoticeable.
4th gear is 1:1 straight through the box
does it whine, with 4wd in neutral? and main box in 4th gear. clutch out (foot off it)???
if yes, then it is not the clutch an not the transfer case (but can be its front bearing ) only way to know for sure is pull transfer case and run the 5speed connected to AIR.( )
leaving only the 5speed box. (jacks stands) the center box is dry (5sp to xfr case adapter air box)
the 5 gear right side, idler gear must be calibrated last on final assembly the box. so it is not to tight or loose.
the bearing on cluster and main shaft ends are all new, (needles in main are locked in 4th gear so is not them)
watch out for those 5th gear parts they love to fail. even spline on cluster rear to 5th cluster input, caused by rear last bearing on cluster failed at some time.
see this devil bottom right;.?
https://fixkick.com/tranny/images/html/image_4.html
the cluster never stops spinning, so its bearing too must be good.
same goes here 5th in the right, and add on gear, that can fail easy, do to adding goofy-ness
https://fixkick.com/tranny/images/html/image_12.html
see thiS?
all this spins all the time.
in 4th gear no load but spins and that idler on the right must be set right, no binding, can be done outiside box but never remove its bolt 100% or its LOST! the gear