Dash Tacho Wire A1

[fixkick]

had some luck. 
replaced brown wire and it seems to idle. also, IAC wire was bad so I fixed it an now it idles. Not getting any DTC codes. 

However its running very very rich:
The car has no CAT, and hole in pipe right before muffler. 
Also th EGR bark nipple is broken off.
I assume with no backpressure the EGR system isnt working properly which could be giving me this rich situation.

Think the lack of CAT and subsequent EGR issue is throwing my car into failsafe mode making it run rich?
I'm not getting code 41 anymore, but its still  rich and smokey. Compression is also 150 cold so dont think its rings.

injector misfiring is super bad,  the ECU is doing that and is wrong, only why  matters
the EGR is dead now both ways, no CAT and no bark tube, means EGR will never ever open again, and must be closed now and if is closed not cause rich fueling
after all the EGR is never used EVER at  IDLE nor is it used at WOT wide open throttle. SO those are not rich even on day1 new car. EGR is for cruising and NOX reduction only.
but if  the  injectors misfires the ECU  will go mad due to huge vacuum fluctuations at the Map SENSOR.
are your ECU caps good, if not the injector will misfire so will spark or as we know all code 41s is spark misfire and 41s cut fuel  at the injector, so that 41s would  cause the injector to cut fast.
if 41s, 42s are gone the injector must not misfire,  or CAps IN ecu ARE BAD. (NO CMP ERRORS CAM SENSOR IN DISTRIB.)

150 IS GOOD PRESSURE, COLD OR WARM ENGINE,

So what causes smoke black if no DTC errors and not  in limphome mode.
in order.
1:way too high fuel pressure, saw one old care that had a siillly huge fuel pump outiside  the tank off a FORD Crown Victoria, and it was so powerful it over loaded the  FPR all the time
like garden hose to a  fire Hydrant, wild..

2: gross misfiring,
3: map sensor reads wrong key on no start and key on idle voltage out, of MAP seen on my map table , see map page in fixkick.com type map there.
4: vacuum is wrong 19inches HG. at idle and steady not bouncing like mad. ever and for sure not while idling at 800rpm ISC working and controlling idle hot engine.

5:
The ECU may need new CAPS (called a ReCAP job) everyone Ive seen needed, a simple job if old school soldering is easy for or others.
engine not at 180f coolant,
6:
ECT not at 300 ohms hot but way higher ohm ,the ECU adds lots of fuel (too much for any hot engine)