Dash Tacho Wire A1

[fixkick]

Hello. 1992 tracker 8 valve tbi 2 door 4wd 5 speed
Still investigating odd surges while (after) cranking (starts at 3000rpm then falls down to 400rpm, then back up, then motor dies).   400 is stuck open EGR valve most times.
The fuel injector was previously hot wired to stick open. I removed the hot wire and now I get this issue.  (hot wiree to what?)
I checked the injector resistance (looked good  1 ohm it is. ), replaced coil and igniter, still no fix.  (ok ,  bad wiring,  (41 is real but is wire caused, opens or short on all things it goes t0)
99.9% of the time no ECU ever blows up inputs ever, it has super good protection on all INPUTS, outputs love to blow up for sure 2 wire TBI injectors.



Question about the brown wire going from the noise supressor to the tach and ECU: 
For the ECU to properly pulse injector, does the brown wire need to be connected to the instrument cluster as well as A1 on ECU? 
Basically - if I remove the entire instrument cluster, should the ECU still properly pulse the injector? 
Removing the cluster never ever rumors A1 signals to the ECU. (the wire is T junction mid harnees) cluster and ECU and cruise controller.
but if the speed tacho meter shorts A1 then fuel is cut.  nothing must ever short out or cut the A1 brown were,  cluster pulls do not cut A1.

I'm worried that hte connection on my cluster is messed up and I want to test the wire by just routing a whole new wire from the suppressor to pin A1 to see if this resolved the issue. 

If not, I might need a new ECU. (G103 ground went to alternator, not starter, so it may be burnt).  that is not good that, , it can burn that wire up. (depends on what was there actually)

In additon I also routed an extra 6 gauge (awg) wire from ground G100 to alternator. (good , rusty alternator love better grounds)

so you start a new post every time?  I don't care but is odd. that, so I can read the posts as one and understand it all.
that hot wired injector is super bad.
there are 2 injector drivers in the ECU on on hot side and one on the ground side. (unlike any other car made,  nor 16v = mpi x4 drivers not 8) 8v suzukio's only.
both lines must pulse or the injector will fail,  dead or be super wildly rich over injecting
wish I knew about hotwire  first.  this is common seen (bad acts) on 8v the ecu burns out the injector driver (dead open and dead or is shorted this driver.) 
So the owner goes WILD with hot wire ideas all of which are 100% hopeless. (do not hot wire injectors, hook them up correctly to a good ECU)
the truth is one can scope both wires on the injector to see the waveform or us a NOID light in a tricky way. (I will tell this last)
if A1 spark readback is cut,  the ECU see that and cuts all fuel but if the wild man above hotwired the injector well that BYPASSES the A1 spark failure  test and fuel  cut.

the tacho pin brown wire prevents as seen on TV crash and burn, that is it's #1 most importnant job that fuel cut.
code 41 can be for intermittency in A1 or dead A1 ,  1 is 10 misifires is code 41, so is dead A1. same code 41.

a noid lamp test, smaller is better and incandescent best, not LED.


The Noids lite test is say.
the 2 injector  wires can be 3tested 3 ways and 3 ways best.

the test is with injector not connected
a cranking tests and with no fueling can not start and is  safe for you,  wheels chocked. in neutral and hand brake set hard.
https://fixkick.com/INJECTORS/NOID101.html#TBI

that first test is NOID lamp on the 2 colored wire pins to the harness of course. red and yellow pins
just for fun see my cope on those 2 pins. (2 pin transverse mode tested as the injector sees it is this.test.1
https://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/INJ-red-to-yel-w1.jpg
the noid  just  flashes. cranked slow. must not stick on but must flash, all tests must flash or the DRIVER RED OR YELLOW are bad. stuck on is bad.

test 2 is from red pin to ground (red is the +12vdc driver transistor pin.)
noid to pin red and other noid pin to engine ground. it must flash
now the tricky #3 tests

#3 is the ground driver test.
I use  jumper wire with 2amp inline fuse holder from Battery + lug, and othere end of wire fuse to the NOIP 2nd pin
NOID 1st pin to the yellow injector PIN.
key on crank and it must flash if stuck on it has bad transistor in the ECU and easy to replace really/'

if EITHER PIN YELLOW OR RED DO NOT FLASH THERE WILL BE NO FUELING AT ALL (Thus why folks hot wire them)
if EITHER same 2 pins are stuck on (glows) full time and do not flash, that causes HUGE RICH mixtures and is a bad transistor it only a shorted bad transistor. easy to replace.

do not hot wire either pin to battery directly with copper wire only, + or  you will blow up the transistor for sure the yellow.



here is the full set of tests (ignore g10 and metro examples ,just G16 TBI 8v)

https://fixkick.com/INJECTORS/the-pulses-matter.html

before the car and run right both Q101 and Q102  must both work and both must pulse. 91 to 95 are all the same , this circuit and was discovered by me.  fixing bad ECU.
also R225 can burn open making yellow dead too. uP is micro processor + port expanded. These 2 big transistors are easy to find. new. standard Japan made and number common.
My best Theory here is there are 2 transistors so I one shorts, the INJEcTOR is not burned up to hell as it would..  (a great idea really)