(that is easy to answer the ECU wants to control idle at the 150F water temperature transistion point)
that is how this works not fully hot , the ECU knows only 1 thing here, that is to wakup the ISC and control idle at 800 rpm. (digital fast idle inputs all false)
That causes our cars here in USA to do the same thing and hunt (an illegal act that, and cured today) but not in 1991.
that hunt is pure ECU/ISC actions !!! and means the ECU is CONFUSED. and is 100% vacuum leak caused, or IAC leaking.
IAC leaking is also a vacuum leak, on 8valve. as is all others combined (they add up)
Good to know. I am software developer by profession and this kind of felt like a problem that the ECU does not know if should go by IAC or ISC and constantly transitions from one to another until water is hot enough to stay just on ISC. So its buggy, it should not transition constantly.
I was not worried about it as it does not affect much.. if I start driving when its doing that all is fine when a slight amount of throttle is applied. (So I guess ISC correclty turns off).
(what is the rubber?)
The black thingy in IAC that is supposed to be completely shut at 150F.
I think you meant rpm falls with loads added and ISC is offline, or simply overloaded, IAC, means it is closed and huge vacuum leaks are the cause
Yes you are correct. I tested this when I yet did not have high idle and there was no correction from ISC when I put more load via electronics, ie it went down from 800 to 600-550 RPM when long beams + blower at full blast + seat warmers on for both seats. Could be of course overloaded as there definitely is slowly growing vacuum leak somewhere.
inspect all map hoses by eye
Forgot to mention that I replaced all the MAP hoses while I replaced all but 1 hoses connected to TB, IAC, ISC etc. Not sure if original hoses were same diameter as the TB, IAC, ISC, but mine were so I changed those too. As its MAP and not MAF sensor I dont think it really cares what size the hose is as long as it does not collapse and is air tight.
THE ISC IS EASY TO BLOCK, ZERO CLAY AT THE BASE GASKET, BOCK THE IAC AIR HOLE. but saidly kills the front TB air bleed path too.
one guy here , defeated the now dead stuck open IAC doing this.
he defeated it 100%
then added a dash board air valve and vacuum line from it to any intake vacuum ports, on the actual manifold
the set idle using the dash knob. for cold starts he open said valve, by hand, then when water hit 150 closed it and the ISC then takes over. (ends the hunt too)
the human IAC, if you will.
This sounds great easy and cheap fix as there are no spares or if you find one it costs horribly much. I am used to old CARB thingies so having a manual valve (or choke knob) is not a problem for me (or my wife). I like this car as its pretty simple. My everyday driver is a non-plugin hybrid auris and its like if there is a problem, don't touch anywhere..
the cold engine is 100% IAC VACUUM FLOW, (air) + TB bleed screw. if there, is it?
I Will check this next time I go near the car. I am keeping it at my parents place as its safer (some meth-head broke into it 2 times in 1 month last autumn, but luckily did not get it running).
I will actually add a remote controlled swithc there where disconnected is default / power off setting to the fuel pump ground and steal operating power from back lights. So will need to put lights on, use remote to give power to FP and then start. Bit harder to steal if the ignition lock breaks on next attempt. I cant understand why ugly dinged, polka dotted and odd colored old Vitara is so interesting to those bastards.
Luckily insurance covered everything and I have now new seat, new steering wheel and new multi-switch-thingy that controls wipers + lights (actually drizzle/mist setting was dead with the old switch)
I will anyhow buy the gaskets from rock-auto as its just few $. I need new brake brackets and pins and that is the only place I can figure out that actually has those. So customs foolery and VAT is something I cant dodge here. Disks and pads and even the calibers are available here, but brackets and pins are not . Left front wheel makes horrible clanking sound in every pot hole as the bracket and pins are bust.
So I was thinking to order those and new ISC at the same time to get all this sorted out. As its old car I am afraid that when my ISC goes (if not yet dead) there's none available anywhere when I need it. Spare parts are nastily hard to find here in EU.. and especially in Finland. I think our salted winter roads have killed all gen1 Vitaras. And as suzuki is not very popular here, demand for parts is almost 0.
So I will start ordering parts, it will be finger numbing cold here for next 2-4 weeks, so its good time to wait for new spare parts. When its bit warmer I will de-pressurize the fuel lines and pull the whole TB with all aux thingies out, clean everything and do the hot water test for IAC.
I will also at that point take pictures and publish them here so its easier for you to share your knowledge. Thanks.
that is how this works not fully hot , the ECU knows only 1 thing here, that is to wakup the ISC and control idle at 800 rpm. (digital fast idle inputs all false)
That causes our cars here in USA to do the same thing and hunt (an illegal act that, and cured today) but not in 1991.
that hunt is pure ECU/ISC actions !!! and means the ECU is CONFUSED. and is 100% vacuum leak caused, or IAC leaking.
IAC leaking is also a vacuum leak, on 8valve. as is all others combined (they add up)
Good to know. I am software developer by profession and this kind of felt like a problem that the ECU does not know if should go by IAC or ISC and constantly transitions from one to another until water is hot enough to stay just on ISC. So its buggy, it should not transition constantly.
I was not worried about it as it does not affect much.. if I start driving when its doing that all is fine when a slight amount of throttle is applied. (So I guess ISC correclty turns off).
(what is the rubber?)
The black thingy in IAC that is supposed to be completely shut at 150F.
I think you meant rpm falls with loads added and ISC is offline, or simply overloaded, IAC, means it is closed and huge vacuum leaks are the cause
Yes you are correct. I tested this when I yet did not have high idle and there was no correction from ISC when I put more load via electronics, ie it went down from 800 to 600-550 RPM when long beams + blower at full blast + seat warmers on for both seats. Could be of course overloaded as there definitely is slowly growing vacuum leak somewhere.
inspect all map hoses by eye
Forgot to mention that I replaced all the MAP hoses while I replaced all but 1 hoses connected to TB, IAC, ISC etc. Not sure if original hoses were same diameter as the TB, IAC, ISC, but mine were so I changed those too. As its MAP and not MAF sensor I dont think it really cares what size the hose is as long as it does not collapse and is air tight.
THE ISC IS EASY TO BLOCK, ZERO CLAY AT THE BASE GASKET, BOCK THE IAC AIR HOLE. but saidly kills the front TB air bleed path too.
one guy here , defeated the now dead stuck open IAC doing this.
he defeated it 100%
then added a dash board air valve and vacuum line from it to any intake vacuum ports, on the actual manifold
the set idle using the dash knob. for cold starts he open said valve, by hand, then when water hit 150 closed it and the ISC then takes over. (ends the hunt too)
the human IAC, if you will.
This sounds great easy and cheap fix as there are no spares or if you find one it costs horribly much. I am used to old CARB thingies so having a manual valve (or choke knob) is not a problem for me (or my wife). I like this car as its pretty simple. My everyday driver is a non-plugin hybrid auris and its like if there is a problem, don't touch anywhere..
the cold engine is 100% IAC VACUUM FLOW, (air) + TB bleed screw. if there, is it?
I Will check this next time I go near the car. I am keeping it at my parents place as its safer (some meth-head broke into it 2 times in 1 month last autumn, but luckily did not get it running).
I will actually add a remote controlled swithc there where disconnected is default / power off setting to the fuel pump ground and steal operating power from back lights. So will need to put lights on, use remote to give power to FP and then start. Bit harder to steal if the ignition lock breaks on next attempt. I cant understand why ugly dinged, polka dotted and odd colored old Vitara is so interesting to those bastards.
Luckily insurance covered everything and I have now new seat, new steering wheel and new multi-switch-thingy that controls wipers + lights (actually drizzle/mist setting was dead with the old switch)
I will anyhow buy the gaskets from rock-auto as its just few $. I need new brake brackets and pins and that is the only place I can figure out that actually has those. So customs foolery and VAT is something I cant dodge here. Disks and pads and even the calibers are available here, but brackets and pins are not . Left front wheel makes horrible clanking sound in every pot hole as the bracket and pins are bust.
So I was thinking to order those and new ISC at the same time to get all this sorted out. As its old car I am afraid that when my ISC goes (if not yet dead) there's none available anywhere when I need it. Spare parts are nastily hard to find here in EU.. and especially in Finland. I think our salted winter roads have killed all gen1 Vitaras. And as suzuki is not very popular here, demand for parts is almost 0.
So I will start ordering parts, it will be finger numbing cold here for next 2-4 weeks, so its good time to wait for new spare parts. When its bit warmer I will de-pressurize the fuel lines and pull the whole TB with all aux thingies out, clean everything and do the hot water test for IAC.
I will also at that point take pictures and publish them here so its easier for you to share your knowledge. Thanks.