1989 suzuki sidekick wont stay running

[fixkick]

Thank you for the replys. 

OK got the tests/recommended stuff done.

1. Motor vacuum looks good, steady and moves with rpm rise.
2. Burn symptoms, spark plugs are dry and not fowling. 
3. I had injector pro clean/flow tested at injector shop before heading to the shop 2+ years ago.
4. Tested ECT, shows proper reading of 2.2 cold.  2000 ohms cold, and 300 hot?   21c(70f)=2350 ohms



5. Tested map, it tested perfect per specs that are on your page. Has good vacuum to the map.
6. I am a manual transmission.
7. Putting vacuum on the EGR it fails to hold and leaks. So I blocked it off with the solid gasket and plugged the hose going to it. (yes for now, using blocking gasket on base)
8. Distributor mechanical and vacuum advance seems to move back-and-forth  freely. Pulling vacuum on the vacuum advance and it failed, won’t hardly move with putting vacuum on it and leaks out. I read a bit on it and it seems to only adjust timing slightly and shouldn’t stop my motor from running?? I will fully disassemble the Dizzy to do an internal inspection as recommended. ( for not take that vacuum line for advance and golf TEE it put the TEE there so the engine can not suck air on that line) concur , not cause but leaks add up.
all air leaks on this engine the MAP sees and engine races fast at full power, just like right too does on throttle pedal)

9. I unplugged the O2 sensor as a test, didn’t change running condition. Is that the test? Just unplug the connector? (yes,. most o2 fail for 0volts out and engine goes super rich )
but some bad 02 the heater inside leaks current over to the CELL + side (02 ouput) and engine goes super lean.  this is not the cause.

10. I unplugged ECT for test, didn’t change running condition.  (wow,that would cause super rich limphome mode. but on lean injector power whole go high, on good engine goes too rich)
11. Recommended to test sensors hot. I will run motor a bit to get warm and retest those sensors hot within a day or two. (ECT 300 ohms hot unplugged ECT ,ECT actual ohms)

• 12. I don’t have a scope but I would love to get one to add to my tools. I was looking at the Pico 2204a scope. Have any recommendations on a affordable scope? “ I would still have to learn to use”. any scope that can do say 100 volts,  best is one that can use a 10:1 probe,  the scope to avoid is 5vdc only scope, input max, and the like,
  

13. Looking in the airhorn at the injector spray cone, it looks good. Good pattern, no dribble, or anything weird.
14. My distributor is original, I have new NGK wires, cap, Rotor, and ignition coil.
15. Stated my primary resistance at Coil is out of spec. I have two, one old and one new I purchased a while ago. I tested again and this is what I got. The prime is 2.1 and 1.9. The secondary are 7.8 and 8.7. The book does state prime to be .72-.88 ohms and secondary to be 10.2-14. kilohms. Is this a problem? Specs seem to have changed since last tested not sure why other than it’s been 2+ years.  (meters (most) do not do below 5 ohms well, and 0 ohms can read 1 ohm in the leads easy, your readings are all GOOD. this line.15.

Things I’m going to do. Test sensors hot and take dizzy apart for inspection.

What else can I test or redo any tests a certain way? Thanks again for all the replys.   you are very welcome

injector not bad. flows good so is not that.
spark is in question, it is not easy to test any 89/.90 for spark, at all, as this distrub does so many things, back in the old days before 1979 we had distributor machine testers.

that can test the whole thing, then also has spark scopes (SUN?) that allowed seeing all 4 spark waveforms at the same time and spark plasma resistance.
a
this car runs standalone spark. can even be made to run with Carburetor. with adapter easy. 2Liter carb.  
things that can be scoped are spark HV with a real spark HV probe that uses the magnetic connection!.  to see what it does at engine cut out.  (expect anything)
this HANTEK HT25 PROBE ! works good as seen here. FOR A SCOPE.

CONCLUSIONS SO FAR?+
all testing so far indicates, engine is AOK, vac OK,, and compression ok, and no  A/T to muck up the  works.
INJECTOR IS OK, SO fuel can flow, with good pressure, 32 to 41psi spec and solid steady readings. (FUEL FILTER NOT CLOGGED) OR PUMP ACTING ODD AS THEY CAN DO.

all we know is spark might be bad in some why, or ECU is failing and not injecting correct PW (pulse width) at idle or throttle up.  bad ecu or some inputs wrong to it.

the scope is the only proof FOR INJECTION RATES, to see what the silly ECU is doing, there,  make sure the 2 wires on the injector were not hacked by others.
some owners of this car in fact the ECU injector driver (pair) transistor 1 failed, and to fix this they ground OUT or hot wire the dead injector wire to make it work but most times this goes super rich injection doing this nasty trick. wiring inspections on the 2 wires, by eyeball for hacking here is wise.


distrib machaine.#2




$33 scope,  400vdc with probe set to 10 :1. (nice lil' scope)
has analog 200khz limited band width , so square waves well be tad rounded, but we know they are not. from say any hall sensor.
we pay for 2 things here (3  is portability) 1: input voltages to 400v or above with probe to do that, and we pay for bandwidth,  1mhZ enough, on cars. more sure.
1mSps, sample rate is good. or higher

even the most cheap scope from china now does spec. above, for $12 kit. they are getting better every year..  50v raw input max, is 10 times that with using 10:1 probe.
most cheap (dirt) scopes will show a square wave as  sine wave for both reason, 1; imput amp limited to weak 200kHz bandwidth and for rules on sampling rate called the.
(50$ words.,,, (Shannon-Nyquist sampling criteria) the 1MSPS rate is super slow. my Owan scope does 10GSPS,  10000 MSPS.
the brain inside the scope most read the A/D flash converter and then RECONSTRUCT what it thinks is there, and then lie to you, (1/2 joking here)

in simpler terms  a $100 scope is what is needed, analog or digital DSO, to see any square wave as it really exists.
The Nyquist Theorem states that in order to adequately reproduce a signal it should be periodically sampled at a rate that is 2X the highest frequency you wish to record.

ON cars the signals are slow, so this is not an issue, on reading say, CMP,CKP ,CAS, or other sensors that move fast. they are really very slow that any scope made can see.
that matters is with DSO, it can not show you what the wave really looks like, in fact is just a guess. (top grade scopes DSO are extremely good) but cheap 0nes. just lie to you
on SHAPE,  it sill show  sine wave for shape of square wave and will be the wrong amplitude,  volts shows lower than real.

not saying useless those, not me, but 100mSps is best.

those china scopes for $20 they lie, and do not tell you ever accuracy nor try bandwidth and sample rates.  they even mix those up, or think they are the same. and are not.
200kHZ (200,000 hz) is max, on those. 1MSPS. is sample. they are for audio work only. or 10x that , ultra sonic.
not for testing digital electronics.
what would I buy lacking my 3 good scopes now?

that is tough question and would be:

10MHZ.
Velleman handheld Pocket Oscilloscope HPS140i

or from Amazon so can be returned easy. if not liked.


find 10mHZ bandwidth scopes  and up. even used or even working analog scopes, (solid state) $100 range. gets one.

you  are correct the picoscope is a lot of bang for the buck. (with probes) 2204A, and input max is 100v but not if using 10:1 probe. and 100 MS/s (1ch)




https://www.amazon.com/Pico-PicoScope-22...ial&sr=1-3