the only tricky part for me (on topic of bad idle, way too high)
is those pesky 3 screws on front end of IAC,
that will not unscrew, and fear of breaking them off.
that is why Id clay block the top IAC fresh suck side of the IAC to prove IAC is not leaking air. hot.
this hold true on all 8v , any year.
if the screws are stuck "at Triad"
the only way to test this thing (IAC) is to clay block-up the fresh suck side up top. marked 'input ' here. or the hot water test in pan of water. hot.
I use std, drill bit shanks , 1 to 60 drills set to use them as round feeler gauges. 40f is .040" gap, TB in refrig next to MILK Jug. see?
150f is hot pan of water submerged.
and -10f is my freezer next to prime rib. LOL
the ring does spin (threads) and I think has glue on it , to lock in the factory calibration, im sure on flow bench in the factory.
is those pesky 3 screws on front end of IAC,
that will not unscrew, and fear of breaking them off.
that is why Id clay block the top IAC fresh suck side of the IAC to prove IAC is not leaking air. hot.
this hold true on all 8v , any year.
if the screws are stuck "at Triad"
the only way to test this thing (IAC) is to clay block-up the fresh suck side up top. marked 'input ' here. or the hot water test in pan of water. hot.
I use std, drill bit shanks , 1 to 60 drills set to use them as round feeler gauges. 40f is .040" gap, TB in refrig next to MILK Jug. see?
150f is hot pan of water submerged.
and -10f is my freezer next to prime rib. LOL
the ring does spin (threads) and I think has glue on it , to lock in the factory calibration, im sure on flow bench in the factory.
http://www.fixkick.com