questions lots.
IG_coil means ignition coil power fuse, if blown or missing or cracked, spark ends.
FI= fuel injection fuse, run the FI relay what powers the fuel pump if blow pump is dead.
why not tell me if the CEL glows key on, check engine light(CEL) in the cluster.?
it MUST or the ECU is dead or the #18 GE lamp in said cluster is blown out,
CEL glowing means ECU is not DEAD, for sure CAP leaks do that endless, kills the ECU dead or causes it to go mad with vary noisy 5vdc power inside , making the ECU reboot over and over, and interupting spark and fuel.
we know most rubicon black large caps fail where, most did, in place in car not in a box in a warehouse .
Cap temps can hit 200f on hot summer day and after long years, they bake dry or blow acid everwhere.
boric acid is inside, and eats up the copper traces or even diodes .
yes use the diode you found, no need for ceramic,
what does FSM mean , factory service manual as seen in post #1 of this forum a sticky post #1
the DLC jumper is here, 4 years of evolution, (diagnsice link connector) next to the main battery.
the DLC had a nice rubber cap new, 4 or 6pin
https://fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html
to use it all you need is working CEL lamp and a paper clip.
the fuel pump is fuel cooled and lubricated, do not run it dry (keyon) or burn up the pump rotor you will.
on most EFI cars (electronic fuel injected )cars.
links, lost now added again.
schematic shows where the parts are and IG-coil fuse, FI, and DOME , all 3 are needed to be good. first.
we check fuses first on all cars made. for lost of any electrical or electronic event.(for sure dead)
next is CEL lamp , it must glow keyon, and flash code 12 on demand does it? if not see first link above.
I bet your ignitor's (both are good) testing it is not fun or easy, nor is the unplugged igniter actual plug valid test in the FSM book. not at all now.
they used and analog meter (50000 ohms) back then, as very very weak load (needle meter) a lame test that.
today we have DMM meters, digital and is no load at all or, or 10,000,000 ohms and is fully useless as a load. ( normal load is 10 ohms in fact)
the correct test for any igniter is the in situ test. (on car all parts but ECU A12)
leave ignitor alone on fire wall , in situ.
then connect new spark plug to center tower of the spark coil HV. spark shell grounded. to engine.
then unplug the ECU white (cream) connector, only not the green.
A12 is the ignitor pin seen in my link above schematics.
then with 3volt DC coin cell battery jumper the A12 in and ground,
battery minus log to ground
battery plus to A12, ECU. (ecu not connected here)
you jump the connector and never the ECU actual. see?
then hold jumper there and coil charges.
then release jumper and coil FIRE< (induction and 10,000volts to the spark plug happens now)
do not test at the distributor a it can be dead, due to cam belt slipped snapped.
the ECU will tell you both are dead, if you asked it.
1: keyon see CEL glow. it must or fix that first.
2: then crank dead engine. (for 5 full seconds)
3: release the key not off.
4: insert diagnostic paper clip jumper to DLC next to battery.
5: key is still on see code 41 or 42 falsh out, l2 is normal goodhappy
the above is how to test spark on this car, using new spark plug, gapped to .028inches not .045 as NGK makes them. at the coin and not at the distributor cap, for now.
cheers , notepad rules.
PS: answering more question
there are no icecube relays in any made in japan car,
the 2 relays are just below the ECU, clipped to the relay bracket, the pink wired one is FI. other is main.
as see here off my schematics page, fixkick.com.
https://fixkick.com/ECU/92-95-dash-parts.JPG
PS 2 your found diode should work, but in fact there is no BOM on any ECU here, (bill of materials) and vast diode types exits.
and ceramic is not really needed here, but good CAPS are, I bet they are all dead. leaked out.
IG_coil means ignition coil power fuse, if blown or missing or cracked, spark ends.
FI= fuel injection fuse, run the FI relay what powers the fuel pump if blow pump is dead.
why not tell me if the CEL glows key on, check engine light(CEL) in the cluster.?
it MUST or the ECU is dead or the #18 GE lamp in said cluster is blown out,
CEL glowing means ECU is not DEAD, for sure CAP leaks do that endless, kills the ECU dead or causes it to go mad with vary noisy 5vdc power inside , making the ECU reboot over and over, and interupting spark and fuel.
we know most rubicon black large caps fail where, most did, in place in car not in a box in a warehouse .
Cap temps can hit 200f on hot summer day and after long years, they bake dry or blow acid everwhere.
boric acid is inside, and eats up the copper traces or even diodes .
yes use the diode you found, no need for ceramic,
what does FSM mean , factory service manual as seen in post #1 of this forum a sticky post #1
the DLC jumper is here, 4 years of evolution, (diagnsice link connector) next to the main battery.
the DLC had a nice rubber cap new, 4 or 6pin
https://fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html
to use it all you need is working CEL lamp and a paper clip.
the fuel pump is fuel cooled and lubricated, do not run it dry (keyon) or burn up the pump rotor you will.
on most EFI cars (electronic fuel injected )cars.
links, lost now added again.
schematic shows where the parts are and IG-coil fuse, FI, and DOME , all 3 are needed to be good. first.
we check fuses first on all cars made. for lost of any electrical or electronic event.(for sure dead)
next is CEL lamp , it must glow keyon, and flash code 12 on demand does it? if not see first link above.
I bet your ignitor's (both are good) testing it is not fun or easy, nor is the unplugged igniter actual plug valid test in the FSM book. not at all now.
they used and analog meter (50000 ohms) back then, as very very weak load (needle meter) a lame test that.
today we have DMM meters, digital and is no load at all or, or 10,000,000 ohms and is fully useless as a load. ( normal load is 10 ohms in fact)
the correct test for any igniter is the in situ test. (on car all parts but ECU A12)
leave ignitor alone on fire wall , in situ.
then connect new spark plug to center tower of the spark coil HV. spark shell grounded. to engine.
then unplug the ECU white (cream) connector, only not the green.
A12 is the ignitor pin seen in my link above schematics.
then with 3volt DC coin cell battery jumper the A12 in and ground,
battery minus log to ground
battery plus to A12, ECU. (ecu not connected here)
you jump the connector and never the ECU actual. see?
then hold jumper there and coil charges.
then release jumper and coil FIRE< (induction and 10,000volts to the spark plug happens now)
do not test at the distributor a it can be dead, due to cam belt slipped snapped.
the ECU will tell you both are dead, if you asked it.
1: keyon see CEL glow. it must or fix that first.
2: then crank dead engine. (for 5 full seconds)
3: release the key not off.
4: insert diagnostic paper clip jumper to DLC next to battery.
5: key is still on see code 41 or 42 falsh out, l2 is normal goodhappy
the above is how to test spark on this car, using new spark plug, gapped to .028inches not .045 as NGK makes them. at the coin and not at the distributor cap, for now.
cheers , notepad rules.
PS: answering more question
there are no icecube relays in any made in japan car,
the 2 relays are just below the ECU, clipped to the relay bracket, the pink wired one is FI. other is main.
as see here off my schematics page, fixkick.com.
https://fixkick.com/ECU/92-95-dash-parts.JPG
PS 2 your found diode should work, but in fact there is no BOM on any ECU here, (bill of materials) and vast diode types exits.
and ceramic is not really needed here, but good CAPS are, I bet they are all dead. leaked out.
http://www.fixkick.com